C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

ignition problem

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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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From: Warren MI
Default ignition problem

I have been reading some other threads about ignition problems. My problem is that my car won't start all the time. When I turn the ignition either it starts or it just clicks. I thought it was the neutral switch changed it & still have the same problem. It doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold I can get in the car & it starts or it doesn't. could it be the opti? or the ICM as I've been reading. I haven't tried to get any codes yet, but that will be my next step
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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Sounds like the solenoid to me -
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Old May 11, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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I don't think its the starter, do these cars have a flywheel sensor?
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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ive been dealing with that all week. i just got a new starter today, and it appears that it solved the problem. but again i tried to start it after a short op test and it didnt do a damn thing...no click that i was getting or anything. it was like the clutch switch wasnt working. so i disconnected the battery and let everything reset for about 5 mins. tried it again and it fired right up. 10 out of 10 times. i tested the old starter, and it definantly was bad, the solenoid wouldnt pull the gear back in.
my suggestion to you is pull out the starter and go get it tested. also check the + wire to the starter, test it against the case of the starter. if you have less then the voltage at the battery, then replace the wire. this wire goes from the batt over the back side of the block and down to the starter. its not fun to get out, just check the voltage before you try pulling that out.
remember when u pull the starter to disconnect everything at the battery first. also the exhaust sheild for the cat is in the way to get to one of the starter mounting bolts, remove that section of exhaust or dent the sheild to get an extension in there or else u might strip the head of the bolt(im talking from expierence here!!).
also make sure your key is all the way in the ignition, it may be nothing but i pushed my key all the way in and got my final 10 outa 10 starts. gms ignitions are known for letting the key come out even if its in run or start.

hope this helps. let me know if you come across anything else!
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Old May 11, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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You have symptoms of a poor battery cable connection. Starters draw 100+ amps and require a very low resistance connection to the battery. Remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, battery terminals and the bolts and replace (neg last). You want your battery connections to be like your lover, bright and tight.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 02:33 AM
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Its not the Opti. If it was the Opti it would start and your car would shake like it was in an earthquake.
I would check the easy things first like the battery cables then the starter.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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You have all the good poop already. You have classic starter problems and chances are that’s what wrong. But you have to go thru the basic steps first and check the battery connections for tightness and corrosion. If it clicks your starter relay, CCM and wiring is probably OK. So if your at the point of putting in a starter, don't go cheep and do only the solenoid, change the whole starter. Your last one lasted 13 years and you don't want to mess with it again. Charge on
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:34 AM
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Next time it just clicks...rap the starter with a hammer or pipe, if it starts..replace the starter. But make sure the cables are nice and clean and tight first.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #9  
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sounds like a bad ground wire, bolt a bit loose on back of head,main from battery & allso engine to frame
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Old May 12, 2006 | 11:33 AM
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From: Central Maryland
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The fault, as you describe it, sounds like a no-crank fault. If this is the case, forget about the Opti and the rest of the ignition system, because the fault is in the cranking circuit.

jfb has given you good advice. Check all electrical connections between the battery and the starter, including engine/chassis grounds. Verify that they are clean and secure. Take it from there. If you're no good with electrical fault diagnosis, seek help from somebody who has such talents.

Good luck with it.

Be well,

SJW

Last edited by SJW; May 12, 2006 at 11:35 AM.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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From: Warren MI
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I still think its the neutral switch, because this morning in the cold, I had to play with the gear shift & the ignition at the same time to start it. I think I'm going to switch back to the old one then try to get it checked out at the starter/alternator shop over the weekend. I'll also recheck my battery connections & make sure they're clean.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 02:21 PM
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If it were the neutral safety switch, the solenoid wouldn't click, when it fails to turn over. I think that it starting after playing with the shifter and the key, simultaneously, was just a coincidence. To me, it is definitely a lack of voltage to the starter, regardless of the cause. Could be the battery, battery cable connections, or any one of a dozen things that could limit the voltage getting to the starter motor. My money is on the starter solenoid.

Forget the opti. The opti doesn't come into play until the engine starts spinning.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 12, 2006 | 05:27 PM
  #13  
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that's what happens, I turn the key & all I hear is a click..play with the gear shift & turn key at the same time then it starts.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 11:11 AM
  #14  
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Finally got around to solving my problem & it ended up being the starter.
Thanks for all the input guys & hope to return the favor...

FYI I got a replacement from Bill's Suburban on gratiot for $110 thought that was a good price also has a 2 year warranty
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