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Fuel Pressure OK
Compression OK
New Coil
New Opti
Spark seems fine, bright blue. Couldnt find the tester mentioned in my other thread anywhere.
Really feels as if its not getting gas but the plugs are wet. It was mentioned to pick up a noid light but I cant find one of those at the local parts store either.
Computer problem maybe? All gauges read fine when trying to start the car. Is their a different way to check the injectors. Both fuses are fine.
What could happen over night. Drove home from work fine, backing out next day and it kills. Starts bogs down, kills. Now Turns over dont start.
How common would it be for the timing to jump a tooth. I didnt pull the hub to check it. But the fact that it started again after it killed makes me think it wouldnt be the timing.
I had a problem twice with temp. sensor the one by water pump, it was telling the eec it was -30. Well thats what the shop told me. However a cheap fix 8 bucks at napa.
Ok its a fuel problem. I just poured some gas down the intake and it started for a little while. So what could cause the injectors not to spray, or not to spray correctly.
Have you ohmed the injectors? If the plugs are wet this is a symptom of leaky injectors. You say that the SES light is on but no code given when grounded. You might have to scan it to get the code if this is the case.
Ok its a fuel problem. I just poured some gas down the intake and it started for a little while. So what could cause the injectors not to spray, or not to spray correctly.
Failing pump, failing injector(s), kinked fuel line, clogged FP screen, failing pulsator on pump assembly, or clogged fuel filter. You say the pressure is good. Have you checked it after the engine is shut off, looking for a sudden steady drop?
Failing pump, failing injector(s), clogged fuel filter. You say the pressure is good. Have you checked it after the engine is shut off, looking for a sudden steady drop?
I checked the pressure when I was trying to start the car and it was at 43psi. So I should check it with the car off or see what it does when I turn the car off? The fuel filter ony has about 10k on it. I can here the pump when I click the key over.
Could it be something like a sensor and the injectors not spraying. Mass air flow or something. I am in past my working knowledge of the car at this point so just looking for suggestions.
Would one injector cause the car not to start. Like I said it ran long enough for me to back down the driveway thats why I am wondering if some sensor didnt go now causing the injectors not to spray.
The fuel system doesn't have any sensors operating it. The injectors get a pulse from the ECM according to the RPM and pulses from the distrubitor. I would use your FP guage and check pressure at idle, while driving various rpm, and after you turn the key off. You will be looking for a drop in pressure (like 10lb per sec or so). One leaky injector could cause this problem. Also you can disconnect each injector and use a ohm meter and test them. They should read about 16+/- ohms and not be more than 1 ohm apart. A drop in pressure could be injectors, fuel pressure reg, or check valve. If the SES light is on, this means the ECM has seen something outside of its limits and is warning of a problem.
I cant check the pressure at idle or different rpms the car wont start. The injectors are pulsating we checked it with a light to make sure they are getting current so it just seems they are not spraying. Could one injector cause the engine not to start. Its not firing at all.
Ok its a fuel problem. I just poured some gas down the intake and it started for a little while. So what could cause the injectors not to spray, or not to spray correctly.
One injector not spraying would not cause this IMO. It would take all 8, but you state that the injetor harness is getting fire. The pressure at the rails is good and there is spark at the plugs. I wonder if someone put a potato in your tailpipe . Timing comes to mind. Unless the ECM is not working properly.
Also now the service engine soon light stays on but their is no codes on the display when I jump the 4 and 12.
What are you doing?
to get codes from ecm jump A & B,,at the ALDL connector.. watch for service lite to blink 1-2, thre3 times start of codes,,,then the problem codes appears..EXAMPLE: 3 blinks pause, then 6 blinks pause, for 3 repeats.code then would code36, then to close, 1 blink, 2 blinks end of code.. any other codes would be read between the 1-2 blinks..
To check if you are getting injector pulse you should use a noid light. when you turn key to start the light should flash.If it stays lit or dose not light there is aprob with that system. Car Quest, Napa or bumper to bumper store can order if they don't cary them. Auto Zone in my area dose not. I was also told by a mecanic not to use a standerd test light in place of a noid light. Sorry I don't have any better ideas. Maby change the plugs if they are wet they might not be fireing good enougf. Good luck.
How common would it be for the timing to jump a tooth. I didnt pull the hub to check it. But the fact that it started again after it killed makes me think it wouldnt be the timing.
I do not know how common it is, but I had a timing chain do exactly that. Started the car, went to pull out it stalled. Strted it again and it ran rough, then died. Wouldn't fire after that. Since it started when you put fuel in through the intake I doubt that is it.
I did read in the manual that if the ECM does not recieve the timing pulses from the distributor it will not continue to run the fuel pump. Some thing has to be shuting down all the injectors for it not to run at all. I would continue looking at fuel delivery myself. We had one with a clogged fuel rail and it acted the same. Good pressure and thought there was fuel cause the plugs were wet. We pulled the whole rail to see if the injectors were actually spraying. Turned out to be just barley working. We had another rail and injectors and just replaced the whole setup. Ran like a champ after that.
You can check the timing while cranking with a timing light, but if your engine ran while dumping fuel into the MAF, it isn't timing. The injectors are clearly not injecting fuel and if they are being pulsed, then they must not have fuel pressure or most of the injectors are defective.
Make sure you have proper fuel pressure at the shraeder valve on the end of the fuel rail and you can test your injectors one at time by momentarily touching 12v to each injector and listening for the click sound that the pintle makes when the injector coil pulls it open.
Time to break out the FSM and follow the flow chart for your problem.If you plugs have gas on them the injectors are working.Never read in the manual about pouring fuel into the engine.You need to pull the codes if the SES light is on you WILL have some if you do it correctly.
Well, if you put gas in the intake and it started...you simply have a fuel delivery problem....10k or not, I'd change that filter.You may want to take a piece of wire, I use 12 guage and apply 12 volts to pin G..this will energize the Fuel pump..try that..but check your FSM. Don't think anyone addressed part of your question...with the fuel pressure guage attached to the schrader valve...turn key to on position, fuel pressure should go up to around 40#....turn key off....watch and see how long it takes and how far the fuel pressure drops, as an example mine reached 41#, it took 20 minutes for it to drop to 36-37#, that told me my injectors were not leaking, nor was the FP regulator or fuel pump.
Sounds like you've already checked with a noid light to see pulsation.
You can ohm the injectors like RRT said....that will tell the health of the injectors....I suspect something more simple...like FP, or fuel filter.
I really dont want to drpo the cash on an fsm at this point. The car is getting sold as soon as I get it running for financial reasons beyond my control.
to get codes from ecm jump A & B,,at the ALDL connector.. watch for service lite to blink 1-2, thre3 times start of codes,,,then the problem codes appears..EXAMPLE: 3 blinks pause, then 6 blinks pause, for 3 repeats.code then would code36, then to close, 1 blink, 2 blinks end of code.. any other codes would be read between the 1-2 blinks..
so what is yoour code? using this procedure?
Every post I have read for a 94 you jump the 4 and 12 under the dash and it flashes the codes on the speedometer and it works. I get c72 from the after market stereo.
Well, if you put gas in the intake and it started...you simply have a fuel delivery problem....10k or not, I'd change that filter.You may want to take a piece of wire, I use 12 guage and apply 12 volts to pin G..this will energize the Fuel pump..try that..but check your FSM. Don't think anyone addressed part of your question...with the fuel pressure guage attached to the schrader valve...turn key to on position, fuel pressure should go up to around 40#....turn key off....watch and see how long it takes and how far the fuel pressure drops, as an example mine reached 41#, it took 20 minutes for it to drop to 36-37#, that told me my injectors were not leaking, nor was the FP regulator or fuel pump.
Sounds like you've already checked with a noid light to see pulsation.
You can ohm the injectors like RRT said....that will tell the health of the injectors....I suspect something more simple...like FP, or fuel filter.
Fuel pressure is holding strong at 38 about 10 minutes after taking the keys out.