water pump replacement
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
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From: Mission Viejo CA
Big Deal?
It depends on what you call a "big deal". It's probably harder to change the plugs than it is to change the water pump. Anything less than changing out the engine isn't a "big deal" in my opinion!
S.T.W.
S.T.W.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
Be prepared to spend a few hours just to get the old pump out. This is due to the pump location and the parts that must be removed just to get to the pump (on my 89). Consider doing at TB bypass if you have not done this on your car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by Sam Lam
Be prepared to spend a few hours just to get the old pump out.
The bolts were seized up on my old water pump. It took more time getting those off then the entire rest of the procedure.
That was a religious experience to get those freaking things off.
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From: Mountain Home AR
Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
It depends on what you call a "big deal". It's probably harder to change the plugs than it is to change the water pump. Anything less than changing out the engine isn't a "big deal" in my opinion!
S.T.W.
S.T.W.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,118
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From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
Dave: I always use anti-sieze lubricant when placing steel bolts into aluminum (and steel too). You can get this stuff from NAPA and it is good. A bit messy if you do not control its application!!!
Take your time on this project and make sure you clean up the threads on your bolts and threaded holes! Suggest you drill two small holes in thermostat to allow air to escape as you refill coolant system. Let me know if you want photos of how to do this.
PS: I replaced my original pump with a Delco. Buy a good replacement and do not bottom fish on the price!
Take your time on this project and make sure you clean up the threads on your bolts and threaded holes! Suggest you drill two small holes in thermostat to allow air to escape as you refill coolant system. Let me know if you want photos of how to do this.PS: I replaced my original pump with a Delco. Buy a good replacement and do not bottom fish on the price!
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From: Mountain Home AR
Originally Posted by Sam Lam
Dave: I always use anti-sieze lubricant when placing steel bolts into aluminum (and steel too). You can get this stuff from NAPA and it is good. A bit messy if you do not control its application!!! Take your time on this project and make sure you clean up the threads on your bolts and threaded holes! Suggest you drill two small holes in thermostat to allow air to escape as you refill coolant system. Let me know if you want photos of how to do this.
PS: I replaced my original pump with a Delco. Buy a good replacement and do not bottom fish on the price!
Take your time on this project and make sure you clean up the threads on your bolts and threaded holes! Suggest you drill two small holes in thermostat to allow air to escape as you refill coolant system. Let me know if you want photos of how to do this.PS: I replaced my original pump with a Delco. Buy a good replacement and do not bottom fish on the price!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
It's kinda a pain in the azz, a good size job for a beginning wrencher.
After you pull all the smog/a.i.r. valve crap off...
Remove the a/c accumulator bracket, and just unbolt the entire compressor bracket from the motor and slide it over the waterpump studs and out of the way. You do not need to remove the valve cover or the compressor itself. There's one tricky bracket bolt under the pulley that is partially blocked. It has a hex head for an open end wrench and a T40 torx head on it (easier to use), and has a notch in the head as well. You should undo this bolt last, turn it and the compressor clutch to the right location so you can slide it out.
There are two nuts, and about 3 or 4 bolts holding the compressor bracket on.
After you pull all the smog/a.i.r. valve crap off...
Remove the a/c accumulator bracket, and just unbolt the entire compressor bracket from the motor and slide it over the waterpump studs and out of the way. You do not need to remove the valve cover or the compressor itself. There's one tricky bracket bolt under the pulley that is partially blocked. It has a hex head for an open end wrench and a T40 torx head on it (easier to use), and has a notch in the head as well. You should undo this bolt last, turn it and the compressor clutch to the right location so you can slide it out.
There are two nuts, and about 3 or 4 bolts holding the compressor bracket on.
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From: Mountain Home AR
When I unscrewed the fuel lines, drivers side was fine. Unscrewed the pass side and gas started dribbing out. Well 8 shop towels later I screwed the line back in. Why won't the gas stop running out of the line??? Battery is disconected, but the car is full of gas??? Should I just let it run some more? Dave
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From: Mountain Home AR
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Remove the gas cap, and depressurize the fuel at the schrader valve.
Burning Brakes
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From: richardson tx
i think its kinda of beotch cause on my `90 every single bracket for the entire front of the motor seems to be bolted to the water pump which have to be removed first. if you want an exploded view and rr for this job i can send you a pdf with diagrams and instructions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
Dave: Is the vehicle on a level surface? If the car is on slope, the gas tank may be higher than the end of the fuel line. This will cause the gas to drain at the front of the engine. Just a thought. When I removed the water pump on my 89, I found it easier to raise the car on jack stands and remove both front wheels. Having the front wheels off and elevated makes better access to the water pump. Hope this is helpful.
