C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Broken suspension pics…

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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LT4POWR
surely someone has made (or had some made) around here
don't cheap out on this... just buy a nice set and be done.

you don't want suspect welds giving up at a bad time.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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Get a used one at a corvette salvage yard! and install it yourself
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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There should not be anything to making these parts...No welds if you just thread both ends one left and one right (correct me if i'm wrong). For anyone with these parts what size rod end do they use??? That is really the only thing I need to know. Or what kind of design load should these parts be designed with.

I was looking at 5/8" rod ends for the dog bones. The are rated for a 17,955lbs static load. Its pn 4483T701 @ www.mcmaster.com

Last edited by JA94vette; Jun 27, 2006 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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If that was an old break, it'd be dirty as mentioned, or if it closed up when loaded, the aluminum rubbing against itself would have smoothed/worn down the fracture surface.
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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I went by a GM dealership today and the parts manager told me the camber/spindle/strut rod has been discontinued and he couldn't locate one anywhere
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 03:20 PM
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www.vette2vette.com
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
thanks, I also found a similar place (locally) that I'm gonna check with
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Old Jun 29, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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What kind of prices did you get on the spherical rod end pieces?

I'm considering this, as I think the stock suspension and bushings were good on paper, but poorly executed.
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
What kind of prices did you get on the spherical rod end pieces?

I'm considering this, as I think the stock suspension and bushings were good on paper, but poorly executed.
I have always thought that they could bind.
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 01:00 AM
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Hell, the lower rear camber rods won't even fit on the car without binding. I have to twist and hammer the hell out of the end brackets to get em to fit. And they are stiff as a ****. Stiffness from binding sucks because it's uncontrolled, uneven, and well, stiff.
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 03:09 AM
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Stiffness can also be PART of the design.

Ever drive an old muscle car with non-serrated front end drag bushings? The friction was meant to slow the movement-shocks weren't designed for that setup...scary!

One would think that suspension should move freely, but...

I'm pretty happy with OEM strut rods and Energy Suspension poly bushings-took the slop out which came from the ovalized OEM rubber ones.

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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 04:28 AM
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its not that hard to fabricate some links. rednecks are doing it on 4x4s all the time and holding up to more abuse than a C4 could ever come up with. i am planning on 4 linking my truck. i will be buying my parts from these guys:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=154

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...&cat=98&page=1

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=167
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by JA94vette
There should not be anything to making these parts...No welds if you just thread both ends one left and one right (correct me if i'm wrong). For anyone with these parts what size rod end do they use??? That is really the only thing I need to know. Or what kind of design load should these parts be designed with.

I was looking at 5/8" rod ends for the dog bones. The are rated for a 17,955lbs static load. Its pn 4483T701 @ www.mcmaster.com
VBP lists ""adjustable right and left threaded DOM rids and 3/4; spherical rod end with 5/8' eyes" for the camber strut rods
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
What kind of prices did you get on the spherical rod end pieces?

I'm considering this, as I think the stock suspension and bushings were good on paper, but poorly executed.
if I remember correctly, the control rod/trailing arms go for around $400-$450 for a complete set of 4, and the camber/spindle/strut rods go for around $200 - $300 for the pair
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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Just how easy is it to break a part in the suspension like this? Time and wear?
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Ever21
Just how easy is it to break a part in the suspension like this? Time and wear?
other than being in an accident or drag racing with high horsepower & sticky tires, I don't see them ever really breaking
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 12:25 AM
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i want to say i remember somebody building the toe rod assembly themselves but i don't remember them building any other parts

i would think that this damage came from an accident, because any competent mechanic would have been able to figure out that the camber rods needed to come off.
it seems to me that the alignment would have been seriously off with the rod bent that much
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by LT4POWR
VBP lists ""adjustable right and left threaded DOM rids and 3/4; spherical rod end with 5/8' eyes" for the camber strut rods
That is what i'm looking for. Was that on their site?? Would you happen to know what size they use for their trailing arms??
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LT4POWR
other than being in an accident or drag racing with high horsepower & sticky tires, I don't see them ever really breaking

I could see it happening after I put my Energy bushings in there and torquing the rear links down, they would have broke before they rotated. I had to use the bench grinder to get the fitment right.
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JA94vette
That is what i'm looking for. Was that on their site?? Would you happen to know what size they use for their trailing arms??
It's in their catalog, and it didn't say the sizes for the trailing arms
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