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While my car was on the lift getting the clutch and u-joints done, we noticed this at the passengers side rear…
Bent camber/spindle/strut rod, and broken upper control rod/trailing arm/dog bone. I’m trying to decide on replacing with OEM or get some of those high dollar VBP/Rippie/EM racing pieces. Has anyone made their own trailing arms? Seems that it wouldn’t be to hard to make some similar to these…
I'm not a 100% sure, but a couple of years ago my car was on a trailer and truck pulling the trailer hydroplaned (slowly) into a guard rail. The car was strapped down in the rear by the camber/spindle/strut rods. I didn't think anything was damaged at the time...been driving/racing it since
That’s what I thought too…but with the car on the ground, I think it closes that gap. That pic was w/ the car on jack stands, and taken after a 200 mile return trip home from the shop. I guess it could have happened when the shop was pry bar’ing my suspension apart/together…during the u-joint install.
This is just a theory, because I can't see the pic's because I'm at work (D*mn Uncle Sam and his firewall's)Did they replace the driveshaft u-joints, or the half shaft u-joints, or all of the above? If they did the half shaft u-joints, and used a port-o-power to get the half shaft in and out, I could see this happening. Probably the trailering accident though, I had the same basic thing happen with my C-3, everything looked fine till I started it to back it off the trailer when we got home, only to find the steering box case had cracked! One other possibility, they didn't go "Test Drive" (ala "Ferris Bueller's Day Off", did they?) the car after they were done fixing it?
This is just a theory, because I can't see the pic's because I'm at work (D*mn Uncle Sam and his firewall's)Did they replace the driveshaft u-joints, or the half shaft u-joints, or all of the above? If they did the half shaft u-joints, and used a port-o-power to get the half shaft in and out, I could see this happening. Probably the trailering accident though, I had the same basic thing happen with my C-3, everything looked fine till I started it to back it off the trailer when we got home, only to find the steering box case had cracked! One other possibility, they didn't go "Test Drive" (ala "Ferris Bueller's Day Off", did they?) the car after they were done fixing it?
They did all the u-joints and I was there (in the shop) mostly the whole time, like I said before...I don't think they broke it. They are a highly respected/honest shop.
That upper control arm definately looks like a fresh break. can't imagine you wouldn't feel that under normal driving. Aren't these pieces relatively bullet-proof unless unusually high forces (impacts, etc) are experienced? I just did a full poly conversion in the rear and the spindle rods seem plenty beefy off the car.
I know, too expensive IMO, that's why I was asking if anyone has made any themselves????
Made a four link for a 12 bolt chevy rear a few years back. What's going to cost is the Heim (rod) ends. Prices vary with quality. $10-$11for 3/4" standard and $31-$32 for the chromemoly ones. You'll need some tube stock, and left and right handed taps, plus a lathe, and oh yeah, your labor
I've been wanting to make my own out of aluminum. There is one company that makes the links out of 6061T6 but to be on the safe side I was going to use 7078T6. The only thing i'm missing in the design is what size rod end do they use?? 3/4" for the dog bone links. Would 1/2" work for thoes and 3/4" for the camber and toe links??
Last edited by JA94vette; Jun 26, 2006 at 11:05 PM.
I've been wanting to make my own out of aluminum. There is one company that makes the links out of 6061T6 but to be on the safe side I was going to use 7078T6. The only thing i'm missing in the design is what size rod end do they use?? 3/4" for the dog bone links. Would 1/2" work for thoes and 3/4" for the camber and toe links??
surely someone has made (or had some made) around here