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Well I went the NGK 55s what a bear to get that number 8 plug in on the LT4. The plugs are fine but I have a DTC 301 which is a misfire on 1 and the plug is new but it looks like I have to remove the AC pump to get the new wire in????? The Os sensors on the 2 thru 8 got ride of the DTC 420 code. The prior owner put a sway bar between each wheel running in front of the water pump so there is no way your getting in there to change out the number 1 plug wire without moving this aftermarket bar which looks like a real pain to me. But I have a nasty predentation on 1 thru 7 and when that occurs the knock sencor retards the timeing and she just won't run right. 800 to 1200rpm she is a dog after that you keep the rpms up and no will catch you you shift to soon and lug the motor she will start pinging and than missing and the knock sensor tells the computer retard and it trys to get ride of the pre ignition.
IMHO, NGKs are the best plug ever make. I've use them in all my vehicles for the last 20 years. Right now, I'm using the Iridiums, but I don't notice much difference between them and the regulars.
Another vote for the NGK Iridiums...expensive, but I was glad I paid extra for the IX version after I did the plug change. I don't want to have to do that again for a long, long time!
There's got to be a reason the Corvette race teams all use Bosch.. I've used them and highly recommend them. I can't believe the Corvette race teams wouldn't be using what they thought were the best and apparently they think Bosch is the way to go. Just my opinion....G
There's got to be a reason the Corvette race teams all use Bosch.. I've used them and highly recommend them. I can't believe the Corvette race teams wouldn't be using what they thought were the best and apparently they think Bosch is the way to go. Just my opinion....G
Well I went the NGK 55s what a bear to get that number 8 plug in on the LT4. The plugs are fine but I have a DTC 301 which is a misfire on 1 and the plug is new but it looks like I have to remove the AC pump to get the new wire in????? The Os sensors on the 2 thru 8 got ride of the DTC 420 code. The prior owner put a sway bar between each wheel running in front of the water pump so there is no way your getting in there to change out the number 1 plug wire without moving this aftermarket bar which looks like a real pain to me. But I have a nasty predentation on 1 thru 7 and when that occurs the knock sencor retards the timeing and she just won't run right. 800 to 1200rpm she is a dog after that you keep the rpms up and no will catch you you shift to soon and lug the motor she will start pinging and than missing and the knock sensor tells the computer retard and it trys to get ride of the pre ignition.
I'm not a hundred percent sure, but if that's an R-D Camber Brace bar, probably black powder coat and square steel, it isn't as hard to get out as you think.
Matter of fact, you may be able to go to their web and find the instructions. It's a little bit of a twist and shout (epithets) to get it in, but you can leverage it up and maybe slightly out of the way for plug change.
Well I went the NGK 55s what a bear to get that number 8 plug in on the LT4. The plugs are fine but I have a DTC 301 which is a misfire on 1 and the plug is new but it looks like I have to remove the AC pump to get the new wire in????? The Os sensors on the 2 thru 8 got ride of the DTC 420 code. The prior owner put a sway bar between each wheel running in front of the water pump so there is no way your getting in there to change out the number 1 plug wire without moving this aftermarket bar which looks like a real pain to me. But I have a nasty predentation on 1 thru 7 and when that occurs the knock sencor retards the timeing and she just won't run right. 800 to 1200rpm she is a dog after that you keep the rpms up and no will catch you you shift to soon and lug the motor she will start pinging and than missing and the knock sensor tells the computer retard and it trys to get ride of the pre ignition.
On my 96 LT4 I use a Craftsman 3/8 drive rachet that has a 3 inch handle that will rachet up and down on a hinge so you are not on a right angle. And use a vacuum hose to start the plugs so you do not hurt the threads. T.P.I.S. (Corttrell Racing Engines) www.tpis.com use the Bosh Platuim Plus 4 and see 2 to 4 more HP gains over stock GM spark plugs on all their Racing and street Engine Packages that they sell. Check out their catalog and Dyno Charts.
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Originally Posted by Sidney004
I use the cheapo Autolite copper core on my 94 LT1, which I use almost exclusively for racing. It spends most of its life between 4000 and 5700 RPM. No missing here. I change them every couple of years. They work just fine.
I'm not surprised.
A spark plug is nothing more than a replaceable air gap.
That's all.
As long as it stays in one piece, the cheapest plug will give you the same performance as the trickest/four-ground/iridium/platinum/cut-back/indexed/high-dollar unit you can find. Some precious metal electrode plugs will not erode quite as quickly as the normal, nickel-alloy units, but that's about the extent of it.