Small block 427 advice needed...

Here's the deal. I've ordered a SB 427 crate motor for my 87 coupe... Link
I will be using...
Accel/DFI Gen7 and a dual sync distributor to fire injectors sequentially
TPIS Miniram intake
EM 1 3/4" coated full length headers, no cats, Corsa exhaust.
Car now has a D44 w/3.45 gears, a 700-R4 from Pro-Built w/3,200 stall Vigilante converter and fully Heim-jointed rear suspension.
What I need advice on...
1. Throttle body size and recommended manufacturers part numbers
2. Fuel Injector size and recommended manufacturers part numbers
3. Recommended fuel system upgrades (fuel pump, fuel line sizes, etc, etc) with the possibility of adding a 100-200 shot of Nitrous later.
Naturally I will contact TPIS and World Products for their input, but you guy's have been there, done that
Intended use of this car is simply, to be a nice street car.
Any and all conversation about this matter would be greatly appreciated





Here's the deal. I've ordered a SB 427 crate motor for my 87 coupe... Link
I will be using...
Accel/DFI Gen7 and a dual sync distributor to fire injectors sequentially
TPIS Miniram intake
EM 1 3/4" coated full length headers, no cats, Corsa exhaust.
Car now has a D44 w/3.45 gears, a 700-R4 from Pro-Built w/3,200 stall Vigilante converter and fully Heim-jointed rear suspension.
What I need advice on...
1. Throttle body size and recommended manufacturers part numbers
2. Fuel Injector size and recommended manufacturers part numbers
3. Recommended fuel system upgrades (fuel pump, fuel line sizes, etc, etc) with the possibility of adding a 100-200 shot of Nitrous later.
Any and all conversation about this matter would be greatly appreciated
2. Some like them truly big, most have decided that moderation is the key. The driver for injector size isn't displacfement but your heads and cam. You'll want to provide for 12.3 to 1 at 6000 (your max rpm). Your heads will determine how much air is going in the motor. FMS 30 lbs would be my starting point, with 36's not being out of the question. Smaller injectors will allow you tune idle more easily, but you lose the sure-ity of getting 12.5 AFR at RPM.
3. Install the motor with the current system. You will want to upgrade, but you'll have enough gremlin as it is. Get the motor in and broken in. Most of the pump kits i've seen just go in place of the stock unit.
other notes: You mention a TPiS miniram...consider going with a EFI'd single plane instead. You'll end up with more torque. The MR runners are so short that they never really give you a dynamic charge of air...they just flow really good. The various single plane out there will actually help the higher rpm's with a dynamic-tuned pressure wave to the heads. Talk to world about it as TPiS will try to sell you a MR at ~$1300. Or you could go for the ultra torque of the SR or "first's" TPI setup. I believe the First setup has larger runners than TPiS.
For the money your spending on the crate, you're gonna find 383 guys with similiar numbers. Think of ways now to increase your hp:displacement in the more sexy 1.2 ro 1.4 range. A good set of heads. Seems like the motown will port well, too. These crate motor never seem to push the CR envelope, but if your going to go nitrous keep it low (ie don't mill your heads down for more CR). Definitely consider coating for the cambers and valves. Finally, look at getting a solid roller comp cam setup. Your displacement will allow you to run a much larger cam before the idle starts to deteriorate. consider the lowest solid at 236/236, but you're gonna find a lot of the big displacement dude going with much bigger.
The engine you are planning on purchasing doesn't have a roller cam per their build sheet. That surprised me, also if I were you I would be looking at a manifold something other than a Mini-ram. Having a shoe box with short runners and a hot solid lifter cam is going to be full of reversion in the intake tract making tuning an issue as well as drivability. I would be looking at a single plane conversion such as what Jeb has been doing. The engine will breath better and make more power. Depending on the cam you eventually choose either a FAST or BS3 EFI would work well. You can even make the stock system work if you have the time or find a competent tuner with a load bearing chassis dyno to tune the beast.
For injectors 36 or 42lb injectors should be more than adequate. A Walbro GSM340 fuel pump in the tank would work well. If you are planning NOS then I would upgrade the pump to a large in tank Bosch unit that is the same as what Accel sells as part of their DFI kits. That pump supports 700+ hp. I think the short number for the Bosch pump is what is referred to as the GP-214 pump. There is no real need to upsized the fuel line size.
with all of the above. I would use a converted single plane intake. I am running a stock miniram on my 434 and I can't seem to tune out the reversion at low rpms. I am sure I am leaving some hp and definitely torque on the table with the miniram. Also, my mini seems to have the distribution problems others have seen. my # 7 and 8 sparkplugs are always leaner than the fronts. I am running the walbro in tank pump with stock lines and never have run out of fuel. I have 42# Ford injectors and at 6500 rpm I was sitting right around 85% duty cycle with AFR around 12.5. I would probably drop down to 36# if I did it over again. It also seems as though the newer engine mgmt systems are the way to go i.e. Big Stuff etc...Good luck and let us know how it turns out

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2. Some like them truly big, most have decided that moderation is the key. The driver for injector size isn't displacfement but your heads and cam. You'll want to provide for 12.3 to 1 at 6000 (your max rpm). Your heads will determine how much air is going in the motor. FMS 30 lbs would be my starting point, with 36's not being out of the question. Smaller injectors will allow you tune idle more easily, but you lose the sure-ity of getting 12.5 AFR at RPM.
3. Install the motor with the current system. You will want to upgrade, but you'll have enough gremlin as it is. Get the motor in and broken in. Most of the pump kits i've seen just go in place of the stock unit.
other notes: You mention a TPiS miniram...consider going with a EFI'd single plane instead. You'll end up with more torque. The MR runners are so short that they never really give you a dynamic charge of air...they just flow really good. The various single plane out there will actually help the higher rpm's with a dynamic-tuned pressure wave to the heads. Talk to world about it as TPiS will try to sell you a MR at ~$1300. Or you could go for the ultra torque of the SR or "first's" TPI setup. I believe the First setup has larger runners than TPiS.
For the money your spending on the crate, you're gonna find 383 guys with similiar numbers. Think of ways now to increase your hp:displacement in the more sexy 1.2 ro 1.4 range. A good set of heads. Seems like the motown will port well, too. These crate motor never seem to push the CR envelope, but if your going to go nitrous keep it low (ie don't mill your heads down for more CR). Definitely consider coating for the cambers and valves. Finally, look at getting a solid roller comp cam setup. Your displacement will allow you to run a much larger cam before the idle starts to deteriorate. consider the lowest solid at 236/236, but you're gonna find a lot of the big displacement dude going with much bigger.
When you say "Install the motor with the current system", are you suggesting that I get it up and running with the TPI system first?

The engine you are planning on purchasing doesn't have a roller cam per their build sheet. That surprised me, also if I were you I would be looking at a manifold something other than a Mini-ram. Having a shoe box with short runners and a hot solid lifter cam is going to be full of reversion in the intake tract making tuning an issue as well as drivability. I would be looking at a single plane conversion such as what Jeb has been doing. The engine will breath better and make more power. Depending on the cam you eventually choose either a FAST or BS3 EFI would work well. You can even make the stock system work if you have the time or find a competent tuner with a load bearing chassis dyno to tune the beast.
For injectors 36 or 42lb injectors should be more than adequate. A Walbro GSM340 fuel pump in the tank would work well. If you are planning NOS then I would upgrade the pump to a large in tank Bosch unit that is the same as what Accel sells as part of their DFI kits. That pump supports 700+ hp. I think the short number for the Bosch pump is what is referred to as the GP-214 pump. There is no real need to upsized the fuel line size.
I have heard of the reversion issues w/the miniram but thought it could be tuned out... apparently it ain't easy? I mainly considered the Mini over SR because of it higher RPM attributes and ease of maintenance/installation etc. That plus to be honest, I haven't read much about the custom single plane designs as they are relatively new compared to the miniram which has been around a long time. Oh yeah, I am trying to avoid getting a raised hood for clearance as well.
Thanks for the fuel pump info... specially by letting me know that the stock sized fuel line size

with all of the above. I would use a converted single plane intake. I am running a stock miniram on my 434 and I can't seem to tune out the reversion at low rpms. I am sure I am leaving some hp and definitely torque on the table with the miniram. Also, my mini seems to have the distribution problems others have seen. my # 7 and 8 sparkplugs are always leaner than the fronts. I am running the walbro in tank pump with stock lines and never have run out of fuel. I have 42# Ford injectors and at 6500 rpm I was sitting right around 85% duty cycle with AFR around 12.5. I would probably drop down to 36# if I did it over again. It also seems as though the newer engine mgmt systems are the way to go i.e. Big Stuff etc...Good luck and let us know how it turns out
Which Walbro unit in particular are you using?
Thanks to you and the others I figure this so far...
Same pump as what you are using
Holley 58mm TBody
36lb injectors
Stick with the miniram or not...
One bit of advice, if you go this route, get a good/qualified shop to weld the bungs to ensure they are all at the same height and angle. It will save a lot of aggravation in the long run.

Aaron
with all of the above. I would use a converted single plane intake. I am running a stock miniram on my 434 and I can't seem to tune out the reversion at low rpms. I am sure I am leaving some hp and definitely torque on the table with the miniram. Also, my mini seems to have the distribution problems others have seen. my # 7 and 8 sparkplugs are always leaner than the fronts. I am running the walbro in tank pump with stock lines and never have run out of fuel. I have 42# Ford injectors and at 6500 rpm I was sitting right around 85% duty cycle with AFR around 12.5. I would probably drop down to 36# if I did it over again. It also seems as though the newer engine mgmt systems are the way to go i.e. Big Stuff etc...Good luck and let us know how it turns out
yedi
I still was not satisfied with the lean/rich situation on the MRII set-up. It was so bad that I refused to run on the dyno much over 6K RPM, even though HP was still climbing. I am getting nice "even" plugs with the C4SP.
Aaron
I have heard of the reversion issues w/the miniram but thought it could be tuned out... apparently it ain't easy? I mainly considered the Mini over SR because of it higher RPM attributes and ease of maintenance/installation etc. That plus to be honest, I haven't read much about the custom single plane designs as they are relatively new compared to the miniram which has been around a long time. Oh yeah, I am trying to avoid getting a raised hood for clearance as well.
Thanks for the fuel pump info... specially by letting me know that the stock sized fuel line size




One bit of advice, if you go this route, get a good/qualified shop to weld the bungs to ensure they are all at the same height and angle. It will save a lot of aggravation in the long run.

Aaron











