it ain't touchy...i've done it literally hundreds of times, and really think that this may be the least critical adjustment ever devised... frankly, some advice offered above is ''different'' and i don't know that it even would work if i followed it.

since its all fudged up now, note the position on #1 plug wire on the distrib cap and pull the cap off, rotate the crank until the dist rotor points to the #1 position on the cap...set the two valves on cyl #1 to 0 lash + 1 turn by carefully spinning the pushrod in your finger tips..it is easy to drive the hydraulic lifter down below 0 lash and screw it up until you get the feel of the change from 0 lash changing to collapsing the lifter, but if you're near sober and not ''hyper'' you will learn quickly...put a 5/8 socket on the front of the crank and turn the crank in its normal direction and watch the distrib rotor as it moves 45* to the next cyl in the firing order, #8 (you can make a paper circle "halo" with marks every 45*, number the eight points 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and tape it in place above the distib if you're not sure of yourself) and set the valves on cyl #8...continue till all cylinders are done...take a short break and visually compare how much thread shows above the adjusting nut on all the valves--if any are grossly different, recheck by turning the crank til the distrib points to that cylinder on the cap...reinstall the distrib cap and rocker covers, start and warm the engine, shut it off and reset as noted in my previous post, one head at a time....it's just that simple.

 

It's all good and it does work! May the man get his Vette running and back on the road and enjoy some good times!!!

Thanks,Matt

 

I went through this in the winter.
Had similar problems as you with the car not starting because they were over tightened.
You will get it, just go slow, be patient and all will work out.
I would recommend getting a helms manual too. I followed the directions in my helms and after doing it 3 times it gets easier.
Ran a new best time at the track this spring and made it all worth while.

 

I didn't say to just tighten them up. I said to adjust them down to ZERO LASH. Then turn the engine and adjust them again, to ZERO LASH. In no case, at any time, did I say, you are to "tightened them up". Show me where, "like I said" I told you to "just tightened them up". You've done it wrong. What you did was torque down the rocker nuts, without taking into consideration where the lifter was on the cam. Also, you tightened to a torque spec, with no attempt to identify or to locate zero lash. follow these instructions:

1. Remove both valve covers.
2. Loosen all of the rocker arm nuts until you can feel a little up and down movement of each push rod.
3. Adjust each rocker arm to ZERO LASH.
4. To determine when zero lash occurs, move the push rod, up and down, between the lifter and the rocker arm, as you tighten the rocker arm nut. Just as the up and down movement stops, STOP turning the adjusting nut. You have attained zero lash for that valve. Now move in to the next valve. You have 15 more to do.
5. After you have adjusted all 16, rotate the engine 360° (one full turn).
6. Check each push rod for up and down play. You should find 8 loose push rod.
7. Adjust each of the loose push rods as you did in step 3. Don't touch the adjustment of any of the tight push rods.
8. It shouldn't be necessary, but you can rotate the engine another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and check for any additional, loose push rods and adjust them as the others.
9. With all the lifters set at zero lash, tighten each adjusting nut, one full turn.
10. You should be ready for lift off.

RACE ON!!!

 

No apology necessary. I'm not ticked off. However your statement, "(You'll get it right every time)" is a little naive and misleading. My point was:
I don't care how he does it. I don't care how you do it. However, if someone is having a problem, I am all about seeing where he may have gone wrong and helping him avoid mistakes.

 

This topic DOES seem to get the dander up consistently.1

 

I'm being calm and patient with it, except when it doesnt start. I did each valve very carefully AGAIN just a few min ago. Made sure the crank was moved 90 degrees each time. I know what zero lash feels like and I set each one on the money. I only tightened them 1/4 turn after that. It wont even start up now. I dont know what to do except leave it sit in the garage and get another car to drive.

 

two choices:
1) set em all loose on purpose, just a tiny rattle of the rocker arm (don't go way loose or the hyd lifters may push the snap rings out)...gotta start now or some other gemblim snuck in while you weren't looking...do not rev up, tighten each rocker just till the loud clack quiets down, shut off, tighten each one 3/4 turn.
2) must be a chevy hot-rodder/ racer/etc nearby...gotta be, unless you live in china...tell him you'll give him a case of his favorite brew to set the valves.

 

I wasn't going to say this, but the original problem didn't sound like bad valve adjustment it really is kind of rare unless the engine is brand new.

 

Good advice, back them off 1/2-3/4, should start. Go from there.

 

This is the first time you have made reference to knowing what zero lash was. You started out with simply having torqued all the adjusting nuts, without turning the engine. When and why, did you "Made sure the crank was moved 90 degrees each time". What did you do each time, after you moved it? It is pretty obvious that you are doing something wrong. I'm trying to see if I can help you discover what. A better, more thorough description of EXACTLY what you are doing would help.

RACE ON!!!

 

Alright heres whats going on in case you guys missed it. I took off the rocker arms on cylinders 2,4, and 6 which are on the passenger side because I was going to replace the valve seals. I have some oil burnoff and I finally had enough of it so I got the parts to fix it. I didnt have the air hose adapter for the spark plug hole so I cant compress the springs to release the keepers. Well I need my car to drive to work, so I put it back together and obviously did it wrong cause it wouldnt start.

After reading some more and talking to you guys I figured how to find zero lash and adjust the valves. I keep trying but cant seem to get it right even though I follow the directions EXACTLY.

the rocker arms are too tight because it wont start, I just dont understand why they're tight when I only made 1/4 turn after zero lash. Make a long story short, i've given up on replacing the seals and just want my car to run. I'll try loosening the rocker arms tomorrow morning.

 

I will gladly buy somebody a case of beer if they fixed this for me, but everybody I ask is clueless about adjusting the valves. Its just so weird cause i've never had a problem with this on any other vehicle, even my '77 C10 that had a 350 in it.

 

Okay, here's how to get out of this. Rotate the engine untill #1 exhaust vave goes down about half way. Loosen the #1 intake valve until it sjust starts to be loose (0+ 1/8 turn) . Now rotate until the intake goes down half way, loosen the exhaust valve to 0+1/8 turn. Repeat on all cyls. The engine should now run fine just very noisy. Start on one end and tighten until the noise goes away + 1/4 turn. Do this for every clyl. The engine will start to stall when you tighten the valve. Let it stabilize, check , go to next cly. If it gets to smoky stop let cool down.When they all are quiet, loosen thm up one at a time until it "clicks, and then tighten till the noise stops and then 1/4 turn. Yes there are probably better ways, but at this point this should get you home.

 

Here's a way that works for me and is in the FSM . Set the timing mark on zero and make sure the distributer is pointing to #1. At this point you can adjust Intake's #1,2,5,7 EXHAUST#1,3,4,8 rotate the crank one revolution this will be #6 firing position and align the 0 timing mark again and adjust intake 3,4,6,8 exhaust 2,5,6,7. Directions- Crank engine until mark on torsional daper lines up with center of 0 mark on timing tab fastened to the crankcase front cover and the engine is in the #1 firing position. This may be determined by placeing fingers on the #1 valve as the mark on the damper comes near the o mark on the crankcase front cover.If the valves are not moveing the engine is in the #1 fireing posiotion. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at pushrod. Turn in adjusting nut till lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating pushrod while adjusting nut. when play is removed,turn adjusting nut 1 full additional turn.

 

I have read an article posted buy centuryperformance.com. It is totally different than anything I have triedbut you start with cyl # 1 at full valve lift, then adjust #6 intake & go down the line it sounds interesting & I would like to see someone try it on their motor before me I know its a messy way but if you use flopper stoppers it seems to work better with VCs off. the old way. I have heard this the only way with a big cam & to not go past 1/4 turn after tight. I have built several engines & still wonder the trun correct way

 

Well, if the lifter is collapsed, then tighening it will be like overtightening it. (the plunger in the center od the lifter cannot be at the bottom of its travel when you set the valves)

 

These engines are equipped with hydraulic valve lifters. No adjustment is necessary. However, if valve train is excessively noisy, readjust valves as outlined below.

On some engines, a nylon retainer is used to retain the rocker arm. No provision for adjustment is provided.

INITIAL ADJUSTMENT

1. Rotate crankshaft until mark on torsional damper aligns with center or ``O'' mark on timing tab, attached to crankcase front cover, and piston of No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center of compression stroke. This may be determined by placing fingers on the valves for No. 1 cylinder as timing mark on damper nears the ``O'' mark on front cover. If valves do not move, engine is in the No. 1 firing position. If valves move, the engine is in the No. 6 firing position and should be rotated an additional revolution.
2. With valves in No. 1 firing position, adjust exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8, and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 as described in step 3.
3. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at pushrod, then turn adjusting nut inward until all lash is removed. When all lash has been removed, turn adjusting nut in additional one turn. Zero lash can be determined by rotating pushrod while turning and adjusting nut.
4. Rotate crankshaft one revolution, until pointer ``O'' mark and torsional damper mark are aligned. With engine in this position, adjust exhaust valves 2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8.
5. Install rocker arm covers, then start engine and check idle speed and ignition timing.

READJUSTMENT
The following procedure, performed with the engine running, should be done only in case readjustment is required.

1. After engine has been warmed up to operating temperature, remove valve cover.
2. With engine running at idle speed, back off valve rocker arm nut until rocker arm starts to clatter.
3. Turn rocker arm nut down slowly until the clatter just stops. This is the zero lash position.
4. Turn nut down 1/4 additional turn and pause 10 seconds until engine runs smoothly. Repeat additional 1/4 turns, pausing 10 seconds each time, until nut has been turned down one turn.

 

the "by the book procedure" is the very simlar to my 6 step procedure and CFI-EFI's 10 step method he posted.

Any three will get it done. Although I do not think CFI-EFI step 8 should be done b/c you will probably end up with over-tightened valves.

 

The procedures described by CFI-EFI and myself are for any small block chevy with hydraulic lifters and adjustable rocker arms.