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I'd try to keep it running for a while, it may take 2 people to get this down pat, once the lifters are pumped up (if this is the current problem) it should start to smooth out at least a little.Then it's time to fine tune the adjustments, and for that I would tighten a 1/4 turn at a time, one lifter at a time.Of course I do it while engine is running.
Started it up, same popping sound and low rpms and eventuall stalling. I guess that narrows it down to timing.
Not really, I seriously suspect you now have a bent valve, the popping you here is probably the combustion escaping past it. I hope not, but it sounds likely. I know you didn't run the engine long with the rockers torqued down, but it only takes one revolution to bend a valve. I suggest you go buy the Sears (Well, actually, after checking, it's Actron part # 2171) brand Compression tester (but I got mine at Sears - http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cemldffidfko.0 ) and you test the compression on those three cylinders. If they pass, then adjust them just like Rick suggested above, if you have a dead hole, you've got a bent valve, and the head(s) are going to have to come off. I'd go ahead and pull both since these cars are so notorious about blowing head gaskets, and you need valve seals anyway. I sugested that particular compression tester because it has the quick disconnect fitting on the hose that will also fit any standard air compressor, therefore the hose can be used to hold you're valves up when you get ready to change those valve seals (probably the last thing on you're mind at this point, but it's really not that big of a deal. This one just went wrong when you torqued those rockers.)
with you blownfuel1 but at this point I dont think it would hurt to try to keep it running for a few minutes to see if that helps. If all fails then I guess i'll have to take it all apart. I NEED to get this car running cause i'm going to have to go to classes soon and i'm relying on a friend to take me to work. If something breaks, guess i'll replace it.
Alright, I started it up this morning and gave it a little bit of gas to keep it running, let it sit for a few minutes. It still idles lopey likes it cammed, but other than that no metallic sounds of any kind. It ran on its own without any help so I took it around the block and never broke 1200 rpms. It still idles like no crap, no metallic sounds. Major loss of power though for sure. Oil pressure is good and its getting a steady 14-14.5 volts.
When I said I was working on only the 3 cylinders, I have NOT removed the rocker arms from any other cylinders and have only been adjusting those.
at least you're up and running now that you backed off on the valves. Now it should be back to post #35. I only suggest this because I have to remember I've been adjusting valves for over 35 years. So it's easier for someone new at this to get it as close as possible without the engine running. The way you describe it now is very typical. So, once again I suggest you follow those steps in 35.
As you make the adjustments now..just make sure you can rotate the push rod (by hand) and feel it move up and down SLIGHTLY, once again by hand. This should get you very close.
Yeah, I agree it probably won't hurt to run it a little while longer, the only way it's going to hurt it is if the valve is bent so bad it's cracked, and the head of it breaks off. (Not likely in the current scenario, just keep doing what you've been doing (No high rpm revs) with it like this and you should be fine).
Thats the disaster happened in my last engine, 2 lifters dead and 2 lobes on camshaft chipped off, the car will start and run but dont wanna go more than 45 mph and stupid freaking noise comes from the engine, its horrible expect too much damage. Been there done that.