C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Battery - Is it time to replace?

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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 10:00 AM
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Default Battery - Is it time to replace?

Every now and again when I turn the key I would get a single crank then I'd have to turn the key off then back on with no problems.

I started monitoring the voltage when I get in the car. Its been between 12.1 & 12.4 for the past couple of weeks. Then when the car is running its between 14.2 & 14.6

This morning I go to start the car & the voltage was at 11.4, it started fine. The voltage on the way to wrok started at 14.6 but slowly went down to 14.1. At 1 stop light it momentarily wnet down to 13.7.

What do you think? Battery? Charging system?

New Symptons To Add
1. I haven't checked anyhthing out yet.
2. I just went to start my car, twice I turned the key & all I got was clicking. The voltage read 10.8. On the 3rd try it started. Also, the radio presets were gone.

Let me know what you guys think.

Last edited by DG'sVette; Aug 17, 2006 at 02:02 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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Voltages dont sound out of line. If the battery is a few years old, go for a new one and see. it is the cheapest change to make first.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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Voltage will fluctuate, depending on what you have turned on, like radio headlights, etc...
Only good way to check a battery, is to put it on a tester, any autoparts store will test it for free.
Sounds more like a problem in your starter, like a small dead spot or a loose wire.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Randy93
Voltage will fluctuate, depending on what you have turned on, like radio headlights, etc...
Only good way to check a battery, is to put it on a tester, any autoparts store will test it for free.
Sounds more like a problem in your starter, like a small dead spot or a loose wire.
The voltages do sound fine. Check your starter.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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Just had the started out over the week end looking for an oil leak. Cleaned it up. Looks OK. Will the local auto parts store test the starter?
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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Your charging voltages are very normal and same as mine.

I just put a battery in yesterday because I left the interior lights on over night and killed the battery. Would not charge up well with the charger so I changed it after 2 years, just out of full warranty. Cost me $30 but worth it if I don’t get stuck. Besides 2 years on a battery in Florida, the clock is ticking anyway. But that’s me.

If it cranks one compression stroke it sounds like the beginning of a starter problem to me. If a battery is that weak, it’s probably not going to come back 2 seconds later. As you crank, check the voltage indicated. Above 10 volts or so, probably a starter. A much lower voltage would tend to indicate a battery.

Before you throw parts at it, do the basics first. Clean the battery terminals and look for any loose connection first.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 12:13 PM
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The cluster voltmeter reads way low with the engine not running, don't trust it. Normal alternator voltage is 14.3 volts cold and drops to 13.3 volts hot. I would recommend that you remove your battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, battery terminals and bolts and replace (neg last). Another possibility is worn starter solenoid contacts. At the end of the solenoid stroke, two copper contacts are forced together which switches current to the starter motor and these contacts get pitted and burned. Near the end of their life you experience your symptoms where it takes several hits on the crank position of the ign sw to get the starter motor to run. These contacts are replaceable, take your starter motor to an auto electrical shop for replacement, it will be cheaper than a rebuilt starter!

Last edited by jfb; Aug 15, 2006 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jfb
The cluster voltmeter reads way low with the engine not running, don't trust it. Normal alternator voltage is 14.3 volts cold and drops to 13.3 volts hot. I would recommend that you remove your battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, battery terminals and bolts and replace (neg last). Another possibility is worn starter solenoid contacts. At the end of the solenoid stroke, two copper contacts are forced together which switches current to the starter motor and these contacts get pitted and burned. Near the end of their life you experience your symptoms where it takes several hits on the crank position of the ign sw to get the starter motor to run. These contacts are replaceable.
Thanks good to know. I'm going to clean up the terminals tonight.

I just want to make sure I'm clear. When my problem occurs it ususually after the car as been sitting for some hours. On the first try the car doesn't crank. The second try it fires right up. Feels like its turning a little slow on the when it fires up.
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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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Here is another good test for your battery. Measure the battery terminal voltage during a crank in conditions that you know that makes for a slow or, "grunt", crank (clean battery terminals first). Battery voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts during cranking or the battery is discharged, terminals not clean and tight, or the battery is at the end of its life. Before cranking, the no load battery terminal voltage tells you the state of charge, 12.0 volts and below, discharged, 12.9 volts and above , fully charged and linear inbetween. If discharged, then charge your battery up overnight or longer with a battery charger.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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ttt

Just added more symptons.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DG'sVette
ttt

Just added more symptons.
Check the date on your battery. If its three years or older, go ahead and change it.
Also check your grounds and both the positive and negative terminals for a good connection.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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This is a great site to go to if you're looking for general information about batteries.
CAR AND DEEP CYCLE BATTERY FAQ
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/

One of the best links is a chart that gives information regarding the general state of charge of a typical battery, both wet cell as well as AGM batteries.
Temperature Compensated Battery State-of-Charge (SoC) Table

It makes a good ready reference to determine the general state of charge of your battery based on its present voltage reading.

Good luck... GUSTO
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