C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

MAF or Relays??

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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:54 PM
  #1  
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From: MA
Default MAF or Relays??

Hello Forum

If i try to start my Vette it will fire up then just die
If you start it up and try to keep it going by giving it gas.
It just pops (back fires) then it dies.

If i unplug the conector going to the MAF sensor it runs and doesnt die even when giving it gas

Im thinking it has something to do with MAF sensor or the 2 relays(power & hotwire heatup)

Has anyone ever had this problem??
And is this what a MAF sensor will do when it goes bad or the relays( good when unplugged)??


Here are the things ive done so far

Cleaned MAF sensor with electronics cleaner
Check all conector plugs to relays and MAF seem fine
Replaced air filter with K&N Prior to cleaning of MAF so OIL wouldnt be a issue

The car is a 1986
L98 350 TPI with 82000 Original on clock


Does anyone think im correct and the MAF is bad??

Thank you for any help
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:59 PM
  #2  
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Does sound like a MAF problem. Is the SES light stuck on ?? Pulled the codes ??
Here is a little insight (86)
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/No...it%20Check.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2033.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2034.pdf
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 11:07 PM
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From: MA
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No codes
No check engine

The only time check engine come on is when i pull the conector off MAF
Then i come on about 10 second after running ( wich then seem to run ok when unplugged) so that leaning me toward a bad MAF sensor.

But there pricey .. And guessing not returnable
Just want to get some feed back making sure im correct and get other opinions as well

Where all here to help when our VETTES are feeling sick

Thank you
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 11:15 PM
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I would try replacing the two relays. They are only about $12 each. Located on the firewall by the battery.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 12:15 AM
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Always replace the 2 relays behind the battery on the firewall first. See if that fixes the problem, as they are much cheaper than a new sensor.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #6  
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From: MA
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I just checked out the PDF that where sent in the last post that you refered to

Those pages are from the FSM i have

I notice one thing when i was reading and this make me believe it is for sure the MAF sensor

But the thing that confusing is i have no codes at all.
These page are for code 33 and 34 problems

But the one thing that is strange is this

Refering to code 34 test here what it says

A code 34 maybe caused by a engine that exhibits a low,rough, unstable or incorrect idle problem.Ifthis condiction exists,disconnect the MAF sensor. If the unstable idle exist, see Symptoms in section B. (rough, unstable,incorrect idle, or stalling) If idle improved with the sensor disconnected, replace it

And that exactly happens in my case
unplugged MAF and it runs fine but "check engine then pops on"

My question is now will a Bad MAF always throw a CODE or put check engine light on because in my case it didnt
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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Most often it will throw a code (bad MAF or MAF relays) but it seems like you've hit the nail on the head. Do as others suggested and replace BOTH relays first, comparatively they're cheap versus a new MAF.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Repzard
My question is now will a Bad MAF always throw a CODE or put check engine light on because in my case it didnt
Generally, your FSM will state what the parameters are that will cause a code to be set. If your problem isn't accompanied by a trouble code, you may want to follow the trouble shooting charts under the section, "Symptoms". In any case, you want to follow the trouble shooting charts to a conclusion. Otherwise, an approach like, "Always replace the 2 relays behind the battery on the firewall first.", is nothing but blindly throwing money at the problem. Relays and most other components, can be individually tested.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Otherwise, an approach like, "Always replace the 2 relays behind the battery on the firewall first.", is nothing but blindly throwing money at the problem. Relays and most other components, can be individually tested.

RACE ON!!!
This is true. I traced a code 33 down to be a faulty MAF power relay and replaced only that relay and it fixed the code. In the case of not having a code show up and know that there is a problem with the MAF from what you have done, it will be good to test all the wires/connections and go through codes 33,34,and 36 to see what the problem is. Otherwise you could buy a MAF and it might not be the problem and it still exist. Yes, it is possible to not have a code and have a faulty component,wiring,or connection.

Originally Posted by RRT C4 General
It is known for sensors to go out and not throw a code.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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It is strongly suggested that whenever the MAF itself is replaced, the relays themselves should be replaced also, good or bad, as they can cause a new MAF to fail prematurely.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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From: MA
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I summited a update on the other post

The problem i was having was a bad MAF sensor(with no codes)
But like Vader said
I also replace the 2 relays to be safe

Thank you forum for your help
Couldnt do it without you guys
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