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Oil pressure is caused by resistance to the flow of the oil. If there is little flow, because of excessive clearances in the pump, the pressure will be low. Likewise, if there is little resistance to the flow, pressure won't build up. The very FIRST step, is to verify the oil pressure readings, by hooking up a known good, mechanical, oil pressure gauge. You make no mention of the year, mileage, or general condition of the engine. That oil pressure isn't so awful. What are the (true) readings at higher rpms? You could try a thicker oil and see what happens. Again, it is difficult to make recommendations with so little information. An age old, and still good, rule of thumb, is approx 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpms. Even 4 psi at a 6-700 rpm idle isn't too far off.
Oil pressure is caused by resistance to the flow of the oil. If there is little flow, because of excessive clearances in the pump, the pressure will be low. Likewise, if there is little resistance to the flow, pressure won't build up. The very FIRST step, is to verify the oil pressure readings, by hooking up a known good, mechanical, oil pressure gauge. You make no mention of the year, mileage, or general condition of the engine. That oil pressure isn't so awful. What are the (true) readings at higher rpms? You could try a thicker oil and see what happens. Again, it is difficult to make recommendations with so little information. An age old, and still good, rule of thumb, is approx 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpms. Even 4 psi at a 6-700 rpm idle isn't too far off.
RACE ON!!!
Sorry, I thought under my avatar I had my year and stats. Anyway, 85 383 stroker with about 50K on it. and its 10 PSI at 4-5000 RPMs. This has only started within the last few weeks. It started at going from 25 down to 16 PSI and now its made its way to 4 PSI.
I generally don't look where someones home town is supposed to be for car info. Most people will give the car and engine info in the text with the problem. Also, I didn't see 50,000 miles or 383 listed as part of where you live. Although you didn't say (there is SO much you didn't say) I thought you were talking about idle pressures. Step one, above, is still valid. If the pressure IS that low, you have serious problems, and they aren't likely to be the oil pump.
I generally don't look where someones home town is supposed to be for car info. Most people will give the car and engine info in the text with the problem. Also, I didn't see 50,000 miles or 383 listed as part of where you live. Although you didn't say (there is SO much you didn't say) I thought you were talking about idle pressures. Step one, above, is still valid. If the pressure IS that low, you have serious problems, and they aren't likely to be the oil pump.
RACE ON!!!
Sorry about that, I didnt mean to upset you. I was not trying to take a stab at you. You say serious problems but you dont say what they might be. If its not the oil pump I dont really know what else it could be unless we are talking a head gasket.
You say serious problems but you don't say what they might be.
Read CFI-EFI's comments again.
First check whether the gauge is accurate - sometimes senders or
gauges go bad and display faulty readings.
If a test (see above) proves that pressures are as low as 4-10 psi
at higher RPM then somewhere in the engine, clearances have
enlarged to such an extent that the pump can not keep up with the
leakage through the clearances. Or the pump itself has become worn
and is unable to generate enough pressure.
The head gasket is not usually implicated in low oil pressure issues.
First check whether the gauge is accurate - sometimes senders or
gauges go bad and display faulty readings.
If a test (see above) proves that pressures are as low as 4-10 psi
at higher RPM then somewhere in the engine, clearances have
enlarged to such an extent that the pump can not keep up with the
leakage through the clearances. Or the pump itself has become worn
and is unable to generate enough pressure.
The head gasket is not usually implicated in low oil pressure issues.
.
Ok, I just needed someone to dumb it down for me. I am still learning how to do some things. Thanks and also thank you CFI-EFI
I told you how oil pressure is developed. I told you what the next step is. How much dumber do you want me to dumb it down? 'Splain to me the relationship between oil pressure and the head gasket.
Don't run the engine much until you can verify whether
the pressures are really that low, certainly do not drive
it anywhere.
Right now you have an engine that MAY be sick but which
is intact and in operational condition. Running it with low
oil pressure can be harmful to your wallet.
Any increase in engine noise as the pressures have been
dropping? How about oil & coolant operating temperature
changes?
THis is real stupid but I am sure you have checked the oil level? But with pressure that low the oil pressure switch should shut the engine down. I would get a mechanical gauge to see what the pressure is at idle. If its that LOW you don't need to go any farther. shut it off and you may want to think about droppin the pan. Pump is not hard to swap out but I think I would look at the bearings and check the them with some plastic-gage. wro87
Don't run the engine much until you can verify whether
the pressures are really that low, certainly do not drive
it anywhere.
Right now you have an engine that MAY be sick but which
is intact and in operational condition. Running it with low
oil pressure can be harmful to your wallet.
Any increase in engine noise as the pressures have been
dropping? How about oil & coolant operating temperature
changes?
.
Coolent has gone up also when in stop and go traffic to about 245-255. I have valve rattle too I noticed but ever since it came back from the shop its been doing that.
The SBC oil pump is about as close as you will ever come to mechanical part that never fails, not much can go wrong with two gears. CFI_EFI is right on in his suggestion about a mechanical pressure gauge check. That will tell you a bunch.
What does the oil look like is it white (milky)? Did your antifreese level drop any? If so you have water in the oil and you really want to get that out ASAP. wro87
Check for trash in the air intake and/or between the rad & the A/C
condensor. This step should be performed a few times each year.
Use a garden hose to flow water through from the engine compartment
forward or pull the rad and clean in there thoroughly.
Oil pressure is caused by resistance to the flow of the oil. If there is little flow, because of excessive clearances in the pump, the pressure will be low. Likewise, if there is little resistance to the flow, pressure won't build up. The very FIRST step, is to verify the oil pressure readings, by hooking up a known good, mechanical, oil pressure gauge. You make no mention of the year, mileage, or general condition of the engine. That oil pressure isn't so awful. What are the (true) readings at higher rpms? You could try a thicker oil and see what happens. Again, it is difficult to make recommendations with so little information. An age old, and still good, rule of thumb, is approx 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpms. Even 4 psi at a 6-700 rpm idle isn't too far off.
RACE ON!!!
So should have the first step been check the oil? I mean, after I did that and noticed that I was 2 quarts low I think I figured it out. Let me dumb it down for everyone, if you dont have enough oil in your oil pan then your PSI readings will be lower than normal so first thing you should always check is your oil level. See I got a high performance 383 stroked engine with piston rings that allow oil seepage. So basically every two weeks 1 quart of oil passes through and gets burnt off. I just added oil 2 weeks ago so I figured I was good but I did not follow step 1 and thus I lead my self down a road of asking the wrong question. Thanks for the help non the less though.
Valve rattle? 245-255 degree coolant? Sounds like detonation/pinging to me! My friend overheated his old 305 Silverado and we actually thought of valve rattle.
Valve rattle? 245-255 degree coolant? Sounds like detonation/pinging to me! My friend overheated his old 305 Silverado and we actually thought of valve rattle.
I will look into it. I hope its not. I found that the temps were caused due to a leaky gasket. I fixed the gasket and added more fluid and I am now running 200 degrees constant.
One tends to make certain assumptions. Often common sense is taken for granted, when, considering the audience, it shouldn't be. Actually, the first step should have been to turn off the ignition, to shut off the engine.
Originally Posted by red_johnny
Let me dumb it down for everyone, if you dont have enough oil in your oil pan then your PSI readings will be lower than normal so first thing you should always check is your oil level.
Be careful of what you "dumb down" for who. Most engines will have no problem maintaining full oil pressure, even while down two quarts of oil.
Originally Posted by red_johnny
See I got a high performance 383 stroked engine with piston rings that allow oil seepage. So basically every two weeks 1 quart of oil passes through and gets burnt off.
And every two weeks you scratch your head and wonder what could be the cause of the oil pressure dropping off like that... again. Whar kin I get sum of them hi perframance, stroked piston rings that allow seepage like that? I bet that keeps em from rustin.
And every two weeks you scratch your head and wonder what could be the cause of the oil pressure dropping off like that... again. Where can I get some of them high performance, stroked piston rings that allow seepage like that? I bet that keeps them from rusting.
No because that has never happened before. I dunno why exactly the rings allow for so much blow by but thats how it was explained to me from the prior owner. I am just trying to understand.