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My wheel lock on my rear tire is stripped out and I tried everything I can think of to get it off so I can take the tire off. And no luck... I need some suggestions...
I've tried to get a small chisel and peck at it to try and spin it off, didn't work.
I tried drilling through the center to get an e-z out in there but the steel is too hard to be drilled
Any help or sugestions on what else I can try to get this off with are needed.
Try some PBBlaster on it for 24 hrs soaking, then try to heat it up with torch, depending on what kind of lock lug, if sorta nut head, you could try to beat a smaller size socket on it and try to break loose after heating.
Is it splined? Some of them can be removed by hammering a 12 pt. deep socket over them. Ruins the socket, but it's better then the locking plier method
A pipe wrench might work if you can get it on the nut. All the ones I've seen removed were with the socket pounded on deal as referenced above. Last resort is take all the rest off that wheel and drive like you stole it till it breaks the stud off, then replace the stud. Do this in an empty parking lot so you don't hurt someone else.
i had the same problem on a different car, hammer a deep socket one size too small onto it, then impact it off, you'll have to use at least a craftsman socket as cheaper ones will crack.
Sad to say, but the hammering on of a socket is the way wheel thieves get the wheels off. (some, that is. some know where the wheel lock key is in a car, and use that method. don't ask me how I know....)
i had the same problem on a different car, hammer a deep socket one size too small onto it, then impact it off, you'll have to use at least a craftsman socket as cheaper ones will crack.
Mig welding would probably work as a last resort, I had to do that to another car once because the oil plug was toast.
This is the lock for the rim cap, i con't even get to my lugs...
Here is a picture of my dilemma.
......drill it out then extract the remaining piece!...i think if you drill and then tap and insert a reverse screw/bolt (i think i said that right), you may be able to unscrew it ......
The first time I tried drilling a holf in the center to tap in my reverse drill bit but I went through 2 new drill bits and that little dimplet in the center is as far as I got in!!!
If that is that stainless crap get a cobalt drill bit and keep plenty of oil on it while drilling then use an easy-out. (It will take time and drill slow)As Agent86 said I have done the the Mig welding trick, but that only works if you have a welder or access to one. Just thought of something, got a dremel? Use the attachment that has the fiber reinforced cutting wheel and cut a line down the center. The wheel is the perfect thickness for a standard screwdriver, then see if you can get it to unscrew.
The first time I tried drilling a holf in the center to tap in my reverse drill bit but I went through 2 new drill bits and that little dimplet in the center is as far as I got in!!!
....i am gonna take a big reach here.......do you have a dremel tool?...if so, is it possible to get a really small cutting wheel or similar (i have a few in my "kit")...and ease it in there to cut a straight notch for a decent flat-blade screw driver and then unscrew it?....
Last edited by Da Mail Man; Oct 19, 2006 at 08:12 PM.
Chevy was able to get those off for me when I had the tools stripped by NTB tire technicians.
Chevy also ordered a new Mcgard original set of locks for me. Now I never let anyone touch the tool or those bolts + I take the covers off before sending it in for any work where those wheels are concerned.
If that is that stainless crap get a cobalt drill bit and keep plenty of oil on it while drilling then use an easy-out. (It will take time and drill slow)As Agent86 said I have done the the Mig welding trick, but that only works if you have a welder or access to one. Just thought of something, got a dremel? Use the attachment that has the fiber reinforced cutting wheel and cut a line down the center. The wheel is the perfect thickness for a standard screwdriver, then see if you can get it to unscrew.
Bob
...(ya beat me to this as i had too many spelling errors to correct!...grin.... )....
...(ya beat me to this as i had too many spelling errors to correct!...grin.... )....
No problem
When you do get it off make sure you put a little anti-seize on all the threads before installing. When I worked at the tire shop I saw that these screws are subject to corrosion over time.
When you do get it off make sure you put a little anti-seize on all the threads before installing. When I worked at the tire shop I saw that these screws are subject to corrosion over time.
Bob
...your gonna laugh but, i use a small dab of permatex!....it would cut down on the chance of teh wheel lugs vibratinmg loose (although little chance of that!0 and stop corrosion/rust in it's tracks....been doing this for years.......
Go to an auto parts store and buy a stud nut remover made by GEM. It is a 1/2" drive socket with a left hand cutting thread that threads onto the outside of the lug nut and when it bottoms out allows you to apply removal torque to the nut. I saw a set of 2 at BIG LOTS for $3 tonight.
Go to an auto parts store and buy a stud nut remover made by GEM. It is a 1/2" drive socket with a left hand cutting thread that threads onto the outside of the lug nut and when it bottoms out allows you to apply removal torque to the nut. I saw a set of 2 at BIG LOTS for $3 tonight.
.....my understanding is that he can't even get to the lug nuts because of the lug nut cap and key bolt........