Just bought my 2nd Vette, a black on black 96 LT4 w/o any other options. Very clean car but has 113K miles. I am planning on doing the following mods and am asking for some opinions or suggestions as to worth, level of difficulty and in some cases best product/source.

1) change air box - at a minimum opening up the front shroud. I am looking at all the ram/forced induction systems, some seem to be expensive w/o offering much. I plan to use smooth tubes (power couplers) in addition to the open shroud and of course K&N.

2) MASS air flow - I see these in various forms ranging from $129 to $400. I am sure the car would benefit from a higher CFM unit but I am not sure what is worth what.

3) Headers and exhaust - I want a better sound and to let the car breath a little better. Looking at shorty style headers to keep some clearance. Need some advice here.

4) Short shifter - already ordered the Hurst billet and classic ball. I am wondering what it take to put in. I have yet to get a manual (looking today) but I am sure someone on here has done it.

5) Bilstin shocks - this will be later but I'd like to run a set. I have run KYBs on some other cars and while they work ok I don't think they would work as well on this car. I have read on here somewhere that the KYB suck on a vette.

6) 5 spoke wheels - I am looking for something used but looks good. Before I bought this car I looked at a 95 that was black on black but had chrome 5 spokes and it looked very nice.

7) tires - anyone know what is the largest (wide) tire combination I can put on here w/o flares or altering the suspension?

8) lowering - I am considering this but to be honest the car is pretty low as it is; adive/opinions?

9) NOS - thinking of adding some just for the fun of it, however I want to bounce it around some.

Thanks in advance.

 

1. No, just cut lid and put ina K&N.
2. No, not worth $.
3. Only long tubes, shorties not worth $.
4.yes, but I hear it is a pain to put in, do with the exhaust.
5. Bilsteins are good.
6. Yes, get the GS offset 9.5x17 and 11x17
7. 315's will be good on a 11" wheel
8. yes, lower
9. Don't go over a 125 shot, do a 100 and stay safe.

Welcome to the Forum!

 

Best method to lower it?

 

I have a 96 LT-4 with around 40k miles.

1. I have a cut lid with a stock(paper) filter and am happy with it.
2. I have a Granatelli MAF in red and am happy with it.
3. I have installed a couple magnaflows and am happy with the sound and the modest performance improvement.
4. Decided not to play around with the shifter, am happy with the way it shifts as is.
5.-7. Not qualified to say.
8. Not wanting damage in going over speed bumps I decided against this one although I like the car looks lowered.
9. Wouldn't do this on my car, it's already planty fast for me, but to own his each.

Would also recommend a CAGS eliminator, an $18. part and very easy to install.

 

what is a CAGS eliminator?

 

CAGS is Computer Aided Gear Selection. Should be described in your owner's manual. Under specific conditions you will have to shift from first directly into 4th as there's a lock-out preventing you from going into 2nd. My understanding is that it's a feature that was designed in so that the first buyer wouldn't have to pay a gas guzzler tax on the car, i.e. it was added in to improve gas consumption.

The eliminator or "skip shift bypass" is just a plug that allows you to disconnect the wiring harness cleanly:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050F

It takes seconds to install.

Jeff

 

thanks.

 

Highly recommend an electric water pump. Good for 1.5 to 2 tenths. Also, get it dyno tuned. Worth another 1.5 to 2 tenths. Oh, definitely 4.10s

 

PM me with your email and I'll send you the instructions for the Hurst install. It's in an MS word document.

Definitly put in the CAGS if it's not there.
4.10/4.11 rear gear one of the best bang for the buck.
Long tube headers as stated shortys not worth the $.
I run the 11" GS offset rims with my DR's on them. They just stick out slightly, looks good from the back.

Oh and welcome

 

The MAF sensor is fine stock. I had built a 520flywheel hp 396, and I asked my engine builder about a different MAF sensor. He told me to leave the stock one. The only headers that are worth your time and money are long tube headers.

I would also suggest a electric waterpump, one is going in my car with my new engine. I would also suggest buying a cags eliminator, or just unplugging it.

You can run 315's on 17x11 wheels on the rear with no changes to the car.

IMO I wouldn't go with nitrous, but thats not me. There is nothing wrong with nitrous when used safely. If you do install nitrous, make sure to use all the proper safety equitment.

 

I am not planning on Dragging the car so the tenths are not all that important to me. I am really interested in just overall performance. REference the long tube headers, doesn't it limit your clearance?

 

good advise

other options are...
- QA1 shocks instead
- 4.10 gears
- only lower the rear first (it's really easy) and see if you like just doing the rear...must people do
- new ngk tr55 spark plugs w/ new wires

 

Skip all that crap and think about a clutch first, mine has 90K on the clock with some mods and the clutch is starting to give up the goat. At 113K I'll bet your's isn't far behind, couple that with even more torque you want to throw at it and it's bye bye in short order.

 

Good point and actually I was thinking the same thing. Anyone have any advice on this? Specifically brand/type?

Also, several of you talked about rear tires, how about the front? What is the biggest you can go with there?

QA1's are nice but very spendy last time I looked. I was thinking of using them on another project but the price scared me away.

 

Anyone have any advice on the best (read cheapest) place to get wheels and tires?

What is the widest front tire I should be looking at?

How do I lower the front and rear?

 

tirerack.com is usually hard to beat on tire prices.

 

On my '94 I......

Installed Dynomax mufflers. NO drone or resonance but a nice deep mellow tone thats quiet on the inside.

Butchered the air box lid and installed a K&N drop-in filter.

Threw on the forum recommended plug wires (red MSD's ??) and Bosch platimun plus 4 plugs.

By far, without a dought, the plugs made the biggest difference.

 

..as well. Except the cut lid/K&N is a small waste of money/effort.
Only caveat I might add is on the lowering. If this is for a track car, then it might help. If this is on a street car, the reduction in wheel travel will actually hurt your handling on less-than-smooth tarmac.

Larry
code5coupe

 

this will be a street car. I was not really planning on lowering it but I do like the way they look lowered.

rocco16 - you believe cutting the box and running a K&N is a waste?

Anyone comment on front tire width?

 

You never did state how much money you wanted to spend. I wouldn't go with anything wider than a 9.5" rim up front. The only advantage of the K&N over a paper filter is that it is reusable = savings in the long run. I'd go with exhaust and gears first. The rims can always wait.