C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake job

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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 05:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jrp
Hijacking... What year is your Altima? I have an '02 that is probably due for pads.

2000 SE... best car we have EVER owned.

Just ticked over 105K miles. NEVER done a SINGLE thing to it except change brake pads and rotors once, replaced tires twice, and just replaced the driver side CV shaft (myself for $50), oh and replaced a tail light bulb last week. Thats it.

It just keeps running like a champ! It doesnt burn oil, isn't falling apart, everything is in pristine condtition (except front plastic grill needs repainting, they all did from that model, thats a quick fix though). Thats it. The car looks just as new as the day we bought it, and I really don't take care of it that well except for religeous oil changes. Thats it.

AWESOME car.

I was going to buy an 02+ altima recently, but decided on no car payments instead with an 88 prelude. I found the perfect V6 SE altima too I wanted. Some day I will have it though
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 05:45 PM
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From: King George VA
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Thanks for the info

Well I tempted to do it in my buddies garage and I didnt succeed. I got the rim off and got to the caliper bolts and I couldnt break them loose. I didnt have a breaker bar or really good tools. Im going to have to go to the hobbie shop up here and put it on a lift. With the power tools and stuff I shouldnt have much of a fight.

Is lifting the car safe? Do I put it where the jack marks say? Any inputs will help on this.
Thanks
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:25 PM
  #23  
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I always use something when loosening bolts and nuts. Even if it's cheap WD it will help lube the threads. I did the caliper bolts on mine with a 3/8" wrench, the wheel studs left marks on my shoulder from braceing against the hub. A breaker bar is nice for those. What do you use to tighten the lugs to 100 ft/lbs? That would work on the caliper bolts.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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From: King George VA
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Yeah Im going to wait and do it with the right tools. I guess Ill have to wait alittle longer. Ill use WD next time.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:56 PM
  #25  
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Pick up some PBlaster from Walmart, that will soak in better. I like to soak the bolts then assemble my tools so it has soak in time. You'll also need break cleaner to wash off the new rotor, finger prints, and grease, get on it pretty easily. I think blue thread lock is called for on those bolts? You may want to inspect the grease boots for tears while your there and do a lube job.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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From: King George VA
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Thx
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jrp
That's a great list, and I almost bought that issue even though I had already finished my brakes. I'm thinking, however, that they used a different year and maybe a non-J55 car (I have a '96 like the OP). That allen head bolt that I mentioned is not included, and the front brackets will definitely need a 21mm socket.
The article didn't say what year they were working on but I just checked the part number for the rotors; they're 12" for 84-87.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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From: King George VA
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Yeah I got 13" drilled rotors now I cant wait to get them on.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 05:32 PM
  #29  
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Some pics of a rear brake job of my '96 LT1 on this site:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1390561

Hope it helps. A good hydraulic jack, long breaker bar, & torque wrench are invaluable.
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Old Nov 25, 2006 | 10:00 AM
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From: King George VA
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Well I finished my brake job with 100% success so far. My brakes feel great and quite so not a bad job for a 1 1/2 job. Ill get some pics of it with the new drilled rotors. The weirdest part was the rear I never sen that setup before.
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