Brake job
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Brake job
What size wrenches are used to do a brake job? Or what are the tools for the job. I know I need a C-clamp, pliers, and 2 wrenches. Is there anything else?
For a 1996 coupe vette
Thanks
For a 1996 coupe vette
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Sounds like you may be relatively inexperienced
It would be a good idea to get a little help from someone who knows what they are doing
Maybe even someone from the forum who is near you
At least get a service manual
A small mistake on the brakes can have serious consequences
It would be a good idea to get a little help from someone who knows what they are doing
Maybe even someone from the forum who is near you
At least get a service manual
A small mistake on the brakes can have serious consequences
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 59,243
Likes: 0
From: Driving a hybrid in Hipsterville
Read up on the topic a little bit and you'll be fine. Clean the exposed pistons off before you use the clamp to push them back in the caliper, you don't want to force brake dust/grime past the seals. Make sure you get the right torque #'s from the service manual as well.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Pads only or pads/rotors?
If doing both:
Front caliper mount bracket: 21mm
Rear caliper mount bracket: 18mm
Rear caliper bolts: 15mm on top and an internal hex on the bottom (I forget that size), both backed up by a 17mm wrench on the guide pins.
Bleeder screws: 10mm
Blue lock-tite unless you're using new bolts from the dealer (as recommended in the service manual).
Torque wrench, although mine is unwieldy in the rear wheel wells, and I go by feel.
It's nice to have sockets and wrenches.
And yes, get the service manual. I had never done brakes of any sort before and found myself double- and triple-checking everything. Twice. Not that it's difficult, I just wanted to make sure.
An inspection mirror was a big help in making sure the e-clip was securely installed on the front caliper pin. It's hard to get on there, and hard to see.
If doing both:
Front caliper mount bracket: 21mm
Rear caliper mount bracket: 18mm
Rear caliper bolts: 15mm on top and an internal hex on the bottom (I forget that size), both backed up by a 17mm wrench on the guide pins.
Bleeder screws: 10mm
Blue lock-tite unless you're using new bolts from the dealer (as recommended in the service manual).
Torque wrench, although mine is unwieldy in the rear wheel wells, and I go by feel.
It's nice to have sockets and wrenches.
And yes, get the service manual. I had never done brakes of any sort before and found myself double- and triple-checking everything. Twice. Not that it's difficult, I just wanted to make sure.
An inspection mirror was a big help in making sure the e-clip was securely installed on the front caliper pin. It's hard to get on there, and hard to see.
Last edited by jrp; Oct 25, 2006 at 12:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Originally Posted by jrp
Pads only or pads/rotors?
If doing both:
Front caliper mount bracket: 21mm
Rear caliper mount bracket: 18mm
Rear caliper bolts: 15mm on top and an internal hex on the bottom (I forget that size), both backed up by a 17mm wrench on the guide pins.
Bleeder screws: 10mm
Blue lock-tite unless you're using new bolts from the dealer (as recommended in the service manual).
Torque wrench, although mine is unwieldy in the rear wheel wells, and I go by feel.
It's nice to have sockets and wrenches.
And yes, get the service manual. I had never done brakes of any sort before and found myself double- and triple-checking everything. Twice. Not that it's difficult, I just wanted to make sure.
An inspection mirror was a big help in making sure the e-clip was securely installed on the front caliper pin. It's hard to get on there, and hard to see.
If doing both:
Front caliper mount bracket: 21mm
Rear caliper mount bracket: 18mm
Rear caliper bolts: 15mm on top and an internal hex on the bottom (I forget that size), both backed up by a 17mm wrench on the guide pins.
Bleeder screws: 10mm
Blue lock-tite unless you're using new bolts from the dealer (as recommended in the service manual).
Torque wrench, although mine is unwieldy in the rear wheel wells, and I go by feel.
It's nice to have sockets and wrenches.
And yes, get the service manual. I had never done brakes of any sort before and found myself double- and triple-checking everything. Twice. Not that it's difficult, I just wanted to make sure.
An inspection mirror was a big help in making sure the e-clip was securely installed on the front caliper pin. It's hard to get on there, and hard to see.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
brakes
you might consider resealing the calipers, it's basically sliding the piston out and installing an "o" ring, and a dust boot. no other moving parts, and you get to inspect the bore, and check for corrosion.
aluminum housing, steel piston.
if you get the rebuild kits from Mid America, they come with new bolts too.
to push out the piston, use a bike pump that will go to like 75 psi, and be careful where you put your fingers. WHAM!
aluminum housing, steel piston.
if you get the rebuild kits from Mid America, they come with new bolts too.
to push out the piston, use a bike pump that will go to like 75 psi, and be careful where you put your fingers. WHAM!
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
Likes: 9
From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
I think Corvette Fever did a brake job on a C4 a few issues back (August 2006) and listed all of the tools needed. When I get home tonight I'll dig it out and post their list.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 323
Likes: 1
From: Muncie Indiana
This has not been mentioned
Get some clear plastic hose that will fit over the bleeder valve. Use the 10MM wrench to loosen the bleeder valve and put the hose on it. Run the hose to an empty can ( like a pop can). use the c clamp to push the pistons back after first cleaning them off. This will make it easier to push the pistons and won't put any back pressure on the ABS sensors. When you have the piston fully back then re tighten the bleeder valve. Replace the fluid you drained out with fresh fluid in the master cylinder
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Originally Posted by jrzvette
I think Corvette Fever did a brake job on a C4 a few issues back (August 2006) and listed all of the tools needed. When I get home tonight I'll dig it out and post their list.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,971
Likes: 9
From: The reason time exists is so everything doesn't happen at once
Originally Posted by fc_soldier
Yeah do that for me thanks!
For the calipers & brake lines:
Sockets/box/open-end wrenches: 10,13,14,15,16,17,18mm
Flare/line wrench: 12mm
Slip joint pliers
Screwdrivers
Wire brush/ wire wheel
For replacing the master cylinder proportioning spring:
socket/box wrench 13mm
Flare/line wrench 12, 14mm
Socket for end plug 15/16 inch
Snap-ring pliers
They also give a parts list (pn's are for Mid America Motors)
Caliper paint kit: 106-121 (red)
Front Brake pads, OE style: 611-088
Rear brske pads, OE style: 611-090
Power Slot front rotors (pair): 611-600
Power Slot rear rotors (pair): 611-603
Caliper hardware kit (four kits req'd): 611-045
Master cylinder proportioning spring: 603-179
Braided steel brake lines (set of 4): 603-455
Mityvac brake bleeder kit (plastic): 100-788 or (metal) 100-785
If you can get hold of the magazine (Aug. 2006) there are a lot of pictures which may help. If not let me know and I'll try to scan the article and email it to you.
Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,196
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
side note: if those are the original rotors, you may need the beat them off with a rubber mallet (or some cardboard/rag and a hammer)... mine were stuck on there GOOD and would not come off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Originally Posted by GIJoe
side note: if those are the original rotors, you may need the beat them off with a rubber mallet (or some cardboard/rag and a hammer)... mine were stuck on there GOOD and would not come off.
Last edited by jrp; Oct 26, 2006 at 09:56 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Originally Posted by jrzvette
For the calipers & brake lines:
.
.
.
Good luck
.
.
.
Good luck
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,196
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by jrp
Too much of this I've heard is bad for the wheel bearings. I laid a piece of 2x4 across the lugs and pulled the rotors off with a couple of large c-clamps. Worked like a charm, but the first one came loose with a nice "POP" and startled me pretty good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Originally Posted by GIJoe
well I didn't mean wail on it until the whole car fell a part.. just a couple of good pops until it breaks loose is all it should need. its not going to hurt anything.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,196
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by jrp
Of course - I even used the mallet on my own rotors, but a couple good pops wasn't enough. Wailing on it might have worked, but then we're talking about "too much".
true true... has anyone ever used pbblaster or something to spray on the backs to loosen anything up? Might be a good pre-step to do the night before attempting a rotor change in the future... just a thought?
the ones in my wife's altima I had to beat up pretty hard, the rotors were full of dents when i finally broke them free LOL
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,874
Likes: 0
From: Littleton CO
Originally Posted by GIJoe
the ones in my wife's altima I had to beat up pretty hard, the rotors were full of dents when i finally broke them free LOL