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I'm installing rear GS calipers on my 96.
These have the intergrated parking brake.
The manual says to remove the parking brake automatic adjuster.
anybody do this before. It's not just a simple unbolt the banjo bolt and go, the entire parking brake has to be removed along with the seat cushion....
Larry:
Shouldn't this be similar to changing rotors. I just removed the coil spring with vise grips to release the parking brake mechanism. I did not remove the parking brake adjuster.
The thing about the parking brake is to give a little slack in the cable. You can do the job without doing that. Just rebuilt mine last week. The spring is the hardest part. you will need spring tool for that.
Larry:
Unless I am missing something, if you remove the spring, then remove the bracket(which holds the parking brake cable) from the caliper. Then you can easily swap calipers, replace the bracket with the parking brake cable attached, put the spring back on.
I just got finished removing the spring, the bracket and the caliper.
without touching the inside of the car, like the book says.
But the book must specify disassembling of the parking brake adjuster (in car) for a reason. Guess we'll find out when it goes back together.
I was having problems with a sticky parking brake anyway. It was giving me difficultly disengaging the parking brake. Never found out why.
SO you just pop that spring back on, and all works well?
(without following the manual)
There is always more than one way to skin a cat. The procedures in the FSM are written for the lowest common denominator. They are a guideline, not a bible. What matters is the result. If you find that you can't get the cable end back on the parking brake thingy on the caliper, then you may have to created some slack at the lever mechanism. I didn't have to.
ok, it'll be a couple days, I have to get banjo washers.
but I double checked the book again, and it clearly says, DO NOT REMOVE THE SPRING WITHOUT, ...... doing the adjuster mechanism inside the car........ It's pretty clear about it.
where did you guys get rear caliper rebuild kits?
The AC-delco kit is the only kit that is complete with everything.
and chevy is out of stock for now.
the aftermarket kits only have the 2 rubber seals, not much else....
I want to replace all 3 rubber seals, and all the nice hardware that the delco kit comes with.
ok, it'll be a couple days, I have to get banjo washers.
but I double checked the book again, and it clearly says, DO NOT REMOVE THE SPRING WITHOUT, ...... doing the adjuster mechanism inside the car........ It's pretty clear about it.
Originally Posted by larryfs
...the entire parking brake has to be removed along with the seat cushion....
The 94 FSM procedure, which should be identical to a 96, doesn't involve disassembling the handbrake. You just stick a nail through a hole to hold the adjuster in place. The only thing you have to remove is the handbrake cover. And the lower seat cushion so you can get to it.
But... a lot of people have posted that they worked on rear brakes without bothering to follow the FSM procedure (i.e., did nothing at all with the adjuster) and had no problems.
My car also has GS calipers. When I rebuilt them earlier this year, I followed the FSM procedure. It took a little fiddling to figure it out. Basically, you pull the seat cushion and also the cover from the p brake lever. Then, the idea is to put slack into the cable. If I remember correctly, what you do is insert something into the rear of the mechanism to disengage the rachet drive pawl from the lever mechanism. (This means to put an allen wrench in there and pull up on the spring loaded thing). Then you pull up the p-brake lever without pulling the cable (no ratchet sound, since you're holding back the pawl). Once the lever is up, you insert a nail or punch into the hole on the seat side of the mechanism, through both the lever and the intenal mechanism. Then you drop the lever back down. Essentially what you have done is pull the lever up without pulling the cable, and then pushed the lever back down while pushing the cable and therefore creating slack.
this is that part I can't figure out... the picture in the FSM is so poor, I can't make out any of it. I'll have to take another look.... after thanksgiving..
Originally Posted by TorchRedRob
My car also has GS calipers. When I rebuilt them earlier this year, I followed the FSM procedure. It took a little fiddling to figure it out. Basically, you pull the seat cushion and also the cover from the p brake lever. Then, the idea is to put slack into the cable. If I remember correctly, what you do is insert something into the rear of the mechanism to disengage the rachet drive pawl from the lever mechanism. (This means to put an allen wrench in there and pull up on the spring loaded thing). Then you pull up the p-brake lever without pulling the cable (no ratchet sound, since you're holding back the pawl). Once the lever is up, you insert a nail or punch into the hole on the seat side of the mechanism, through both the lever and the intenal mechanism. Then you drop the lever back down. Essentially what you have done is pull the lever up without pulling the cable, and then pushed the lever back down while pushing the cable and therefore creating slack.
where did you guys get rear caliper rebuild kits?
The AC-delco kit is the only kit that is complete with everything.
and chevy is out of stock for now.
the aftermarket kits only have the 2 rubber seals, not much else....
I want to replace all 3 rubber seals, but all the nice hardware that the delco kit comes with.
.....your thread larry. I didn't want to waste space to ask a rookie Q.
The GS calipers are as good as it gets in C4 brakes before you have to go to aftermarket or do a C5 conversion, right? I read that they are a better caliper than the J55 caliper?
I have a 90 w/J55. What would I have to buy to put GS calipers at all four corners? Just the calipers? Or do I need mounting brackets also?
Any other parts?
Again I apologize for the hijack. Thanks for any light thrown my way!
I will answer that one for you, Tom. The GS caliper is a direct bolt on, same bracket, same pad, same lines, same rotor, same pistons and same performance, but the Corvette lettering does look real nice. I have a 94 LT1 that I take to the track, I presently have a J55 on one corner and a GS on the other. Performance, wear rates, rotor temperatures, everything seems the same. I swapped a used J55 in place of my GS caliper because of excessive pad taper(due to caliper spreading from heat cycling caused by track use.) Although the GS caliper appears stiffer, in my opinion, the change from J55's should only be undertaken for cosmetic reasons. Larry, by the way, I am one of those people who did not follow the FSM, removed the spring and had no problems whatsoever.
Last edited by Sidney004; Nov 23, 2006 at 05:30 PM.