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I daily drive a 95 LT1 C4-A, I've been reading http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/h...rformance.html about the benefits of switching to a elec-pump. It go's on to recommend a new timing chane also. Any one done it (I'm sure there are many) that can share pic's. How much did you spend and where did you get the parts... Thanks for your replies. 101st Airborne
Last edited by Ruff Rider; Nov 21, 2006 at 10:21 AM.
Simple 30min ????? Strick's information on it much MUCH longer then 30min... 101st Airborne
I think TM was referring to after you have installed the EWP if you ever had to replace it the process should take about a 30 - 40 minutes. On my CSR pump there are 6 machine screws (if memory is working today ) and since I purchased the Painless wiring harness for EWPs its a matter of disconnecting BATT, pulling harness plug, undoing 6 screws, trash old unit and reinstall new unit in reverse order from above
I think TM was referring to after you have installed the EWP if you ever had to replace it the process should take about a 30 - 40 minutes. On my CSR pump there are 6 machine screws (if memory is working today ) and since I purchased the Painless wiring harness for EWPs its a matter of disconnecting BATT, pulling harness plug, undoing 6 screws, trash old unit and reinstall new unit in reverse order from above
I might go with the Meziere HD Coolant Pump, but what is this painless wiring harness do you have a web sight i can check out ??? 101st Airborne
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Originally Posted by rickreeves1
5-10hp
If it takes 5-10hp to move that water, then the electric wp must absorb 5-10hp worth of power from the alternator, which must be ultimately supplied by the engine. Either way, the engine has to supply the power to spin either the wp or the alt(to cover the extra load).
Originally Posted by rickreeves1
and constant H2O pressure through all rpms???
If that's true, you are either pushing an excess of water through the engine at low rpm, or you are not getting enough water at high rpm....or maybe both.
That's the beauty of the standard wp: more engine rpm gives you more water flow. Less rpm gives you less water flow. Just what the engine needs.
Those are the reasons I fail to see an advantage for the electric pump.
Am I missing something?
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by rocco16
If it takes 5-10hp to move that water, then the electric wp must absorb 5-10hp worth of power from the alternator, which must be ultimately supplied by the engine. Either way, the engine has to supply the power to spin either the wp or the alt(to cover the extra load).
If that's true, you are either pushing an excess of water through the engine at low rpm, or you are not getting enough water at high rpm....or maybe both.
That's the beauty of the standard wp: more engine rpm gives you more water flow. Less rpm gives you less water flow. Just what the engine needs.
Those are the reasons I fail to see an advantage for the electric pump.
Am I missing something?
Larry
code5coupe
The number one reason I used an EWP on my LT1 is so a true double roller timing set could be installed. But there are other advantages and no real downside IMO. At higher RPMs, a stock mechanical pump can cavitate because they are designed to be most efficient in the "normal" RPM ranges. Also, as the pump turns faster at higher RPMs, parasitic HP loss increases. There's nothing inherently wrong with the coolant running at a constant speed, as long as it meets the needs under all conditions. Temperature regulation is achieved by other means, of course. The Meziere HD pump pulls under 8 amps and I've never blown the 10 amp fuse in mine in nearly 25K miles of use. And by eliminating the mechanical drive on these engines, there's one less seal to leak up front. I wouldn't have an LTx engine w/o an EWP fitted to it. Does it all make more sense now?
If it takes 5-10hp to move that water, then the electric wp must absorb 5-10hp worth of power from the alternator, which must be ultimately supplied by the engine. Either way, the engine has to supply the power to spin either the wp or the alt(to cover the extra load).
That makes sense. I've also seen before and after dyno charts going from stock to EWP that gained 5-10hp. Maybe the power drain is less when coming from the electrical system?
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Nov 22, 2006 at 02:21 PM.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
It also helps out in traffic. When I was out in the SoCal desert overheating was never an issue
Take the time and the $$$ to pull the drive out of the cover, I left my drive in and now I have a small oil leak, not much, but enough so it 'marks it's territory '
The number one reason I used an EWP on my LT1 is so a true double roller timing set could be installed. But there are other advantages and no real downside IMO. At higher RPMs, a stock mechanical pump can cavitate because they are designed to be most efficient in the "normal" RPM ranges. Also, as the pump turns faster at higher RPMs, parasitic HP loss increases. There's nothing inherently wrong with the coolant running at a constant speed, as long as it meets the needs under all conditions. Temperature regulation is achieved by other means, of course. The Meziere HD pump pulls under 8 amps and I've never blown the 10 amp fuse in mine in nearly 25K miles of use. And by eliminating the mechanical drive on these engines, there's one less seal to leak up front. I wouldn't have an LTx engine w/o an EWP fitted to it. Does it all make more sense now?
Not only can you use a double roller chain, you save money too. With the cost savings of using a standard SBC double roller timing chain vice a GM HD LTX chain I was able to buy my Mez HD.
I believe the dyno difference comes from the impeller being optimized for one speed, vice having to work at a wide range off speeds.
I have not had trouble with my MEZ HD; however, I know someone that had their MEZ HD fail quickly after the install.
Not only can you use a double roller chain, you save money too. With the cost savings of using a standard SBC double roller timing chain vice a GM HD LTX chain I was able to buy my Mez HD.
I believe the dyno difference comes from the impeller being optimized for one speed, vice having to work at a wide range off speeds.
I have not had trouble with my MEZ HD; however, I know someone that had their MEZ HD fail quickly after the install.
Just to highlight the advantages, in hot conditions the water is moving faster than the mechanical pump at idle, if you do race, you can cool the motor down after shutdown by running the ewp by turning on the key (I also can manually turn on my fans and increase the cool down), since I've put the ewp in and a 180 stat, my temp ranges, in all conditions, between 185 and 190. As already mentioned, you eliminate one oil leak and once installed it is easy to replace. One more thing, it's a piece of cake to burp the system when changing the antifreeze, you just turn the key on and the pump comes on and out go the bubbles. Yes, it's worth while.
I felt a decent seat of the pants increase in performance as soon as I added a Meziere. Next time at the track the car ran .24 sec better in the 1/4. Part of that gain was the cooler air, but my guess the water pump was worth about a tenth and a half.
Just to highlight the advantages, in hot conditions the water is moving faster than the mechanical pump at idle, if you do race, you can cool the motor down after shutdown by running the ewp by turning on the key (I also can manually turn on my fans and increase the cool down), since I've put the ewp in and a 180 stat, my temp ranges, in all conditions, between 185 and 190. As already mentioned, you eliminate one oil leak and once installed it is easy to replace. One more thing, it's a piece of cake to burp the system when changing the antifreeze, you just turn the key on and the pump comes on and out go the bubbles. Yes, it's worth while.
Why the Pianeless Harness?
Hey Strick, what did you spend on the Mez HD & the harness ???