Are you sure you routed the wires correctly? Did you install them in a clockwise direction or did I mis-read your last post?

If you did, then walking the wires won't help you because if you walk them, that'll call for moving the distributor cap and tech/bat connectors to a position you wouldn't want them to be in.

If the wires are installed correctly and you are able to get the initial timing advance you need (6 degrees BTDC is what's stock), then you can leave it as it is. The engine doesn't care; just as long as they are installed in the correct order.

But if you can't get the timing to adjust to where you want it to be because of interference with the firewall, you're only option is to pull the distributor and move it one tooth.

Ideally, as you stand on the driver's side of the car looking at the distributor, the #1 spark plug wire should be right next to the tach/bat connection points on the distributor cap on the front (radiator) side of the connection points. #2 wire should be on the firewall side of the tach/bat connections. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 This configuration gives the greatest amount of timing adjustment capability.

Jake

 

Thanks for your time and help..Yes the wires are in that order..Even when I move the throttle it still wants to die unless I rev it...I'll Try turning the distrib. I'll Also Check for vacuum Leaks...Keep you all Posted

 

Its the advance with the revs that keep it running,
use Jakes tip about the matchbook - I like it because it is like a shim- you can pick the right rpm's for different tasks with the matchbook and if it falls down onto the engine it wont harm anything - from experience, I used a washer once and it vibrated loose and fell - no big deal right - magnet wouldnt pick it up - it was stainless

keep going your almost there

 

1 last thing - also Jake stated moving the wires advanced or retarded as needed - it's ok to do it - this aint rocket science.
Its circular, 360 degrees and you have 8 cylinders - moving the plug wire either direction is 45 degrees + or - . one tooth doesnt seem like a lot until you do the math.

 

I just looked at the wires and #1 is not next to the bat/tach nor is two..It looks like I have to move them all towards the firewall or counter clockwise..Do ya think that will fix it...The service manual shows #1 towards the front but no bat/tach box is shown..so if I move them is the order still clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2...and 1 and 2 s/b by the bat /tach will this throw the timing off again ??:Will I have to move the rotor so i points to #1 at TDC??..Why does it start and run (somewhat) Now??...crazy:

 

give me a few minutes I'll snap a picture - Damn battery is dead on camera

 

#2 boot should be to the left of the tach mark and 7 to the right of the batt+

 

Yes sir that's how they are..Now what,, should I move the distrib around I think towards the Pass side but there's not much turning room..Or should I "walk" the wires one over..Or Try to move the Distrib a Tooth...I'm Soooo Close I can taste it....

 

Here's a step by step on how I do it" SURE, there are other ways to accomplish the same thing, but here's MY way:

With the distributor installed, I first remove the #1 spark plug and either stick my finger in the spark plug hole (as when I have a hand-held bump starter) or stuff a piece of twisted up paper towel/toilet tissue in the #1 hole.

I then bump over the engine - BUMP MIND YOU - until I feel pressure on my finger OR when the paper blows out. THAT LETS ME KNOW I'M ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.

I shine a flashlight on the damper and see where the TDC timing mark is positioned. I look for anything between 6 degrees BTDC and 12 degrees BTDC. If all else is well, anything in the range will fire the engine and it will run.

If necessary I bump again until I AGAIN feel pressure/blow out the paper and try to stop bumping when the TDC mark is between 6 and 12.

I then remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointed.

If it's not pointed at the #1 terminal on the distributor cap, I decide if I can turn the distributor enough until it does align with the #1 terminal OR if I need to pull the distributor and re-index it "one tooth off".

Once I have moved the rotor until the pointer is pointed at the #1 spark plug terminal on the distributor cap AND with the TDC mark is still at between 6 and 12 degrees BTDC I button the distributor up. Button it up also means re-installing the #1 spark plug, connecting the EST connection if it has been disconnected, all sensors plugged in - like TPS, IAC, MAF, etc.

Engine will fire and idle immediately - ASSUMING ALL THE OTHER SETTING AND CONNECTIONS ARE RIGHT.

I let it warm up a bit then shut it down and disconnect the EST. I connect my timing light, fire the engine again (it may need a little coaxing to keep it idling at first but that's normal). Once the engine will idle on it's own, I take a reading with the timing light connected to the #1 spark plug wire and adjust the base timing as needed by turning the distributor while watching the timing light flashes.

Lock down the distributor hold-down bolt, recheck the timing with the light to make sure it didn't move (adjust if needed), then shut down the engine.

I reconnect the EST, then disconnect the negative battery for 30 seconds to clear the code that gets set when the ECM detected the engine running with the EST disconnected. I reconnect the battery cable and re-fire the engine.

With the timing light and the engine idling, the reading should be just off the scale of the timing tab; somewhere in the area of 20/22 degrees BTDC.

I rev the engine to make sure the ECM (computer) has taken over the ignition timing chores and that the timing advances as I rev the engine. If so I disconnect the timing light.

Now that all that's done, you can make any other adjustments needed.

Jake

 

For all intents and purposes, it really doesn't matter where the #1 plug wire is positioned on the distributor cap. The engine doesn't know or care where it is.

All that's necessary is that the rotor is pointed at the #1 terminal when the #1 piston is on the compression stroke and is anywhere between 6 and 12 degrees BTDC. Also there's no interference preventing you from turning the distributor to achieve the final base timing setting and the spark plug wires have to be correctly positioned; in the proper sequence.

Even 6/12 BTDC isn't etched in stone; the engine will fire and run a 4 or 14 - 6/12 is just an advance to shoot for.

Jake

 

Thanks Jake and everyone..I'll Do this tomorrow After work..Will Post Results..

 

Any luck yet?

 

Yes !!! It starts but wont Idle..timed correctly 6* BTDC matchbook keeps it at higher idle..It will run then..Fuel pressure is 45 lbs..This is with key on engine not running..It leaks down quickly.. about a couple of minutes..but I cant run the car for a few mins. for pressure to stablize..Will set the TPS tonite..Checked ECU to see if was working by unpluging the TPS and it posted a 22 code ..So it appears to be seeing the TPS...It doesnt start hard Just wont Idle I'm so Close..