I just Put in my new engine L98 Slightly Moded...Most Polution items gone,,chipped for it..Anyway...It cranks but won't fire,,Checked spark,Gas,It has compression...When turning the engine over by bumping the starter My timing marks line up on #1 TDC...The Rotor appears to be between 1 & 8...I'm Stumped...I know it's hard for you guys to have a solid answer but I'm out of Ideas on what to look for ..Proly something stupid..Any Ideas will be helpful

 

What is your fuel pressure? if it's good and you have spark it's probably a timing issue. Do you happen to have a noid light, if you do check to see if the injectors are getting the signal.

 

plug gap?

 

probally something simple. double check all your plugs

 

Double check all electrical connections, if the ECU isn't getting a good signal from something it needs car won't fire. Couldn't be something easy like a loose connection to the tach signal or something similar.

 

Thanks all..I'll check all of the above and post my findings....I do have a new piggyback chip..I dont think I put it in wrong but I'll check that also..When I jump the ecu for codes nothing happens also But I was told the car has to run for the computer to learn..Keep your suggestions and ideas comming..I'll yet ya know

 

O.K. I got up early cause this is realy bugging me...I bumped the engine to #1 comp stroke aligned my 0 and the dist. is pointing to # 8 WTF !!! If I move the wires one over will it start?? This is strange how could it be one off?? I'm certian my cam is aligned with the crank I checked and double check B-4 assy..Turning engine to # comp stroke puts the 0 inbetween the balancer and timing marks...This is a diff cam than stock but it shouldnt change .... Gonna have a pot of coffee and swap wires...

 

Swapping wires will change your firing order so I wouldn't do that. When you stabbed the distributor you were probly a tooth or two off so pull it and stab it. And make sure it gets all the way down so you have oil pressure so you might need a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump a little.

 

It sounds like you dropped the dist in where you thought it should go and the oil pump shaft moved it when it seated.

 

You guys were right !!! I turned the pump shaft and goofed around with the dist and if dropped in on #1..It still won't start Though..I'm going to look into Injector Fuses and such...I Have Good Spark,Fuel in the rail and compression...But I don't smell gas when I pulled #1 Plug ...Anymore thoughts Let me Know..I think I'm Close

 

Pick up a noid light. This will let you see it the injectors are firing.
If not, it would lead you back to the chip, ecm, or wiring.

 

Thanks Pete..Where do I get one of these lites??

 

I bought a kit from a mail order company, but you may be able to get one on loan from the autozone. They are not expensive and are a nice addition to the tool box.

 

Thanks I'll try to pick one up today..I'm also gonna pull out the new piggyback chip and just used the orig. and see if it will fire..I had the cold start removed but I think that's not controlled by the ECM anyway..We'll Get It...Thanks All

 

I had the same problem....I checked EVERYTHING over & over...discovered that unit injectors will stick if off the engine for ANY length of time...they stick closed...I had an assistant crank the engine while I LIGHTLY tapped each injector with a long screwdriver til the engine started...continue to tap 'til it runs smoothly.....cheapest fix on the forum.

 

Great News IT'S ALIVE !!!!! It seem that the dist must be between 1 & 8 @ TDC I stabed the dist.there crossed my fingers and it started in two cranks...It won't keep running though I have to run to the front and move the throttle a little but it still wants to die....Should I adjust or move the dist a little?? Why wont it keep running...All Your help has been great,,,Awaiting your sugestions

 

This is where the "one tooth off" statement comes in to play.

It's not uncommon for the distributor gear to index with the camshaft gear "one tooth off" when it's installed. Happens a lot.

There's a good chance that it's a timing issue; not enough advance. You can try turing the distributor a little to advance the base timing to see if that helps keep it running.

If, once the engine runs on its own and the exhaust headers glow red, it's probably because of not enough spark advance.

In the past, I've used a folded up match book cover to stick in the throttle body lever just to keep the R's up while I sorted through the teething pains of a new engine install. Anything of a similar thickness can be used; a pop-cycle stick; feeler gauge, etc. Just thick enough to keep the TB blades a hair farther open.

You can "walk the wires" without having to pull the distributor to re-index the gears. Just as long as you move them one at a time and keep them in the same order relative to each other.

I've done that lots of times in order to better position the plug in connectors on the distributor cap. In cases where the plug in connectors on the cap ended up pointed at the firewall or at the plenum, I'd walk the spark plug wires which allowed me to turn the distributor until the connectors on the cap were at in about the 3 o'clock position.

More than one way to skin a cat.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

Jake Thanks,,Are you saying to turn the "boots" or move the entire wire one over ie 1 to 8 ect..My dist electronics plug is at 3 oclock now..If i move it lets say toward the firewall your saying just to twist the boots on top of the dist right ?? But what if it runs better with the dists electronics pointing towards the firewall...How would i get it back to 3 oclock.. I just want to understand fully...I'm sooo close..Thanks for the help

 

Depending on which way you want the timing to change - advance or retard - you remove one wire from it present position, then remove the one right next to it. Plug in the FIRST wire you removed into the SECOND ONE'S hole, then remove the THIRD one from it's hole and stick the SECOND one in it. Keep on until all 8 are done the same way.

After all are done, you'll need to give the distrubutor a healthy turn to get the engine to fire. This'll position the distributor's plug in ports where you want them and will also give you the ability to make the timing adjustment needed. Without the distributor connectors positioned correctly the part that extends from the cap may contact the firewall or the plenum preventing further timing adjustment.

To be more specific and detailed I'd need to know where the #1 wire is facing now and where the distributor plug in connections are pointed.

Jake

Jake

 

O.K. The #1 wire is in the back of the plenuem to the right(if your faceing the front of the car) The #8 wire is in the back of the plenuem to the left...The electronics (tach and batt) are exactly at 3 Oclock (faceing drivers side)..Hope this helps