QA1 questions
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 520
Likes: 2
From: Mandeville, LA / Clemson, SC
QA1 questions
Hey guys,
I'm looking to buy some QA1s to put on over Christmas break. I thought I read somewhere that you needed a different shock if your vette was lowered.
These are the ones I am planning on buying:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...27739_-1_10075
Are these the correct ones?
Also, I wanted some opinions of QA1s.
Thanks,
Jeff
I'm looking to buy some QA1s to put on over Christmas break. I thought I read somewhere that you needed a different shock if your vette was lowered.
These are the ones I am planning on buying:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...27739_-1_10075
Are these the correct ones?
Also, I wanted some opinions of QA1s.
Thanks,
Jeff
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,846
Likes: 293
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I don't know about different shocks if the car is lowered, but I've got QA1's on my Corvette and I love them 
I drive it on the street, drag race, autocross, and track it. It's nice to be able to adjust them w/o removing anything.
I drive it on the street, drag race, autocross, and track it. It's nice to be able to adjust them w/o removing anything.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Dallas Texas
I have the QA1s on my lowered Vette (about 1.5" lower in the front). You'll definitely want a different body for the front if you have lowered it quite a bit. The shock meant for stock ride height gave me about 0.25" of piston travel and bottomed constantly (on the hard-stop clip). The shock I exchanged for had a body that was 0.5" shorter, IIRC, giving me some travel back. They still bottom on large bumps or dips while ripping through the mountains, but it is very rare.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 1
From: Dallas Texas
They are the C-series adjustable. I got them from an authorized distributor in northern California, but i would have to go through my receipts to recall the vendor's name and the part number. I don't remember how low my Vette is since it has been on blocks for over a year now, but certainly 1-2" below stock... It was quite dramatic. You could call QA1 directly, tell them what you're doing and they will probably make the correct recommendation since they are good people there.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 986
Likes: 99
From: Collegeville PA
Originally Posted by JA94vette
Hey guys,
I'm looking to buy some QA1s to put on over Christmas break. I thought I read somewhere that you needed a different shock if your vette was lowered.
I'm looking to buy some QA1s to put on over Christmas break. I thought I read somewhere that you needed a different shock if your vette was lowered.
Fronts (63-82 Corvette) - TC1958P
Rear (88-96 Corvette) - TC3024P
I love the QA1's. The fact that you can adjust them is amazing. You can easily dial in any "ride" you prefer. You will be amazed at the range between the 1st and 12th click. The only complaint I had was the fit. Your going to need a sh** load of washers, so have them ready during the install so you don't have to go back and put them on later like I did.
Good Luck
Last edited by Triple Black 88; Dec 11, 2006 at 11:54 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 297
Likes: 1
From: anacortes washington
Originally Posted by Triple Black 88
I had the same questions/concerns when I got mine. I have an 88 which was lowered. I talked to a guy named Joel from Naake Suspension Specialists (916) 771-0109. He'll ask you to measure the distance between the lower shock T to the bottom of the lower bushing...mine was 12 1/8", so I went with the 63-82 Corvette Front Shock which was 1/2" shorter then the 88-96. I think he said that the piston travel for this shock was 11 7/8" to 12 3/4". I ended up buying te shocks from JEGS for $139.99 ea (free shipping)...here were the part numbers:
Fronts (63-82 Corvette) - TC1958P
Rear (88-96 Corvette) - TC3024P
I love the QA1's. The fact that you can adjust them is amazing. You can easily dial in any "ride" you prefer. You will be amazed at the range between the 1st and 12th click. The only complaint I had was the fit. Your going to need a sh** load of washers, so have them ready during the install so you don't have to go back and put them on later like I did.
Good Luck
Fronts (63-82 Corvette) - TC1958P
Rear (88-96 Corvette) - TC3024P
I love the QA1's. The fact that you can adjust them is amazing. You can easily dial in any "ride" you prefer. You will be amazed at the range between the 1st and 12th click. The only complaint I had was the fit. Your going to need a sh** load of washers, so have them ready during the install so you don't have to go back and put them on later like I did.
Good Luck
see ya on the road
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 520
Likes: 2
From: Mandeville, LA / Clemson, SC
Called QA1
Well I just got off of the phone which QA1...
When I told him year and model and that I was planning on lowering it about 1" he first said the 88-96 SHOULD be fine. Then I told him about the people on the forum getting 63-82 front shock because of lack of travel and then he said...those would work also and give the extra travel back. In the end, he said either shock should work but he was not sure exactly if there would be any issues with the 63-82 shock. He did not think so.
So...with out my car being lower current...I can't measure anything accurately. I did measure what I have (from lower T to mount) and it was 13.5 on the driver’s side and 13 on the passenger side!! But I guess it was not the best driveway to test it on...I can only guess when I lower it, it will be around 12.125” and 12.25”.
I'm going to give it a couple more days and, unless someone gives some different replies...i'm going to get the 63-82 fronts and the 88-96 rears.
What washers do I need??
When I told him year and model and that I was planning on lowering it about 1" he first said the 88-96 SHOULD be fine. Then I told him about the people on the forum getting 63-82 front shock because of lack of travel and then he said...those would work also and give the extra travel back. In the end, he said either shock should work but he was not sure exactly if there would be any issues with the 63-82 shock. He did not think so.
So...with out my car being lower current...I can't measure anything accurately. I did measure what I have (from lower T to mount) and it was 13.5 on the driver’s side and 13 on the passenger side!! But I guess it was not the best driveway to test it on...I can only guess when I lower it, it will be around 12.125” and 12.25”.
I'm going to give it a couple more days and, unless someone gives some different replies...i'm going to get the 63-82 fronts and the 88-96 rears.
What washers do I need??
Last edited by JA94vette; Dec 12, 2006 at 07:12 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 986
Likes: 99
From: Collegeville PA
If your going to lower it, I'd go with the 63 - 82 Fronts. I haven't had any problems, nor have I "bottomed" or "topped" out .
Here are the pics of the washers that I needed. Up front, I used 1 on each side of the "T" (lower bolts) because the lip on the lower "T" was not as long as the stock Bilsteins. When the shock was centered between the 2 bolts, the "T" on the shock only made it to the center of each bolt. The washers just gave me more surface area to hold it down. (Hope that makes sense)
For the rears, I used 2 on each side of the eyelet to make up the slack. Without those 4 washers, the shock had play and would clunk side to side. Not sure if this will be the case for your year. If you notice, most companies sell shocks for 84-87, 88 and then 89-96. I'm not sure why 88's are singled out or what's different, so you might be fine w/out washers. (I'd pick them up anyway just in case) Anyway, I got the stainless steel washers from Home Depot.
Here are the pics of the washers that I needed. Up front, I used 1 on each side of the "T" (lower bolts) because the lip on the lower "T" was not as long as the stock Bilsteins. When the shock was centered between the 2 bolts, the "T" on the shock only made it to the center of each bolt. The washers just gave me more surface area to hold it down. (Hope that makes sense)
For the rears, I used 2 on each side of the eyelet to make up the slack. Without those 4 washers, the shock had play and would clunk side to side. Not sure if this will be the case for your year. If you notice, most companies sell shocks for 84-87, 88 and then 89-96. I'm not sure why 88's are singled out or what's different, so you might be fine w/out washers. (I'd pick them up anyway just in case) Anyway, I got the stainless steel washers from Home Depot.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 520
Likes: 2
From: Mandeville, LA / Clemson, SC
Thanks for thoes pics!!
I am in the process of the job right now and I was wondering did you reuse the stock upper shock bushings in front. The 63-82 shock bushings are considerbly smaller in diameter than the stock ones.
Thanks,
Jeff
I am in the process of the job right now and I was wondering did you reuse the stock upper shock bushings in front. The 63-82 shock bushings are considerbly smaller in diameter than the stock ones.
Thanks,
Jeff
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,719
Likes: 59
From: Fremont Oh
I have all of the information on my web site if you need any information please feel free to contact me...
www.ndneyes.com/mo
I wouldn't suggest going less than #400 on the front and less than #250 on the rears...
Hope this helps, as others posted, you'll love them. I've had mime on for over 50,000 miles and no issues what so ever.
Mo
www.ndneyes.com/mo
I wouldn't suggest going less than #400 on the front and less than #250 on the rears...
Hope this helps, as others posted, you'll love them. I've had mime on for over 50,000 miles and no issues what so ever.
Mo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,919
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
I have the QA1s on my lowered Vette (about 1.5" lower in the front). You'll definitely want a different body for the front if you have lowered it quite a bit. The shock meant for stock ride height gave me about 0.25" of piston travel and bottomed constantly (on the hard-stop clip). The shock I exchanged for had a body that was 0.5" shorter, IIRC, giving me some travel back. They still bottom on large bumps or dips while ripping through the mountains, but it is very rare.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,838
Likes: 31
From: Australia
Where did you get your shocks?
Try AUTOFAB Race Cars
Elkridge, MD 21075
Phone 410-796-8777
I did lots of research before buying
$10 cheaper per shock than Summit or Jegs and cheap shipping
JoshKing@autofabracecars.com
Try AUTOFAB Race Cars
Elkridge, MD 21075
Phone 410-796-8777
I did lots of research before buying
$10 cheaper per shock than Summit or Jegs and cheap shipping
JoshKing@autofabracecars.com
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,919
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Hey Jeff, I know we PM'd each other on the shocks, but I thought I would ask here so everyone benifits.
Since they recommend the front to be different lengths due to lowering, what about the rear shocks?
Since they recommend the front to be different lengths due to lowering, what about the rear shocks?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,604
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Just put a set on my lowered LT4, have the fronts set to 6 & the rears to 4 (per a tech I spoke with - "perfect settings for sprited street driving on a C4"). If I hit the track he said fronts to 8 rears to 6. These shocks are incredible...night & day difference in the feel of the car, esp. being lowered. Car feels planted w/ no float at all. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,919
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Just put a set on my lowered LT4, have the fronts set to 6 & the rears to 4 (per a tech I spoke with - "perfect settings for sprited street driving on a C4"). If I hit the track he said fronts to 8 rears to 6. These shocks are incredible...night & day difference in the feel of the car, esp. being lowered. Car feels planted w/ no float at all.