C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

after superram install... :(

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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #61  
tequilaboy's Avatar
tequilaboy
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From: Lakeville MI
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Hopefully you will have enough clearance for the larger nuts.

Another option would be to helicoil the damaged 1/4-28 threads. I probably have a few of these left if you need some.

I had to repair two of the plenum/lid holes on my used SR.

Or you could pick up a 1/4 -28 helicoil kit somewhere. It may come in handy if another hole becomes stripped.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 03:00 PM
  #62  
bill mcdonald's Avatar
bill mcdonald
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Originally Posted by tntcorvette

I am not trying to start a super ram vs miniram vs singleplane, vs h/s/r but it is what it is. The super ram is a pain in the *** to install....period.
Practice.
that's all that is needed.

I think some of use who have had it off a 1/2 dozen times or so can remove it in 30 mins in stock form, with the right tools.

putting it back will take a little more.


When someone picks up a super ram they should chase all threads with a tap.
pre assemble it on a bench and look at how it is going together.
if there are issues, this is the place to find it.

I glued my gaskets on one mating surface, this allows them to stay put, not tear on removal. and seal up any machining BS that could be there.

I changed all those hex bolts out to allen heads.
I can grip them better with my fingers, and use a modded (cut down)allen wrench to tighten them with.
This also eliminates the mod of slotting the threaded end of the hex heads to bring them up through the plenum with a screw drive.

I Put those center, inner bolts between the injectors through the top of plenum, much like what has been shown in the pics above.
this will get rid of a ton of frustration.
(open up the plenum holes to remove the threads. Tap the runner to accept a thread, and find a bolt that fits. I also ground down the plenum floor in this area to get a flat sealing surface, and use silicone to seal air tight)

When putting the intake on the engine I put all the runner, plenum,and base bolts in loose. all of them. this allows one to slowly go around and tighten the bolts assuring the intake is not off and creating a leak.
using antiseaze will help with finger tightening.

Bolting the runners to the base tight, then trying to wedge the plenum on is wrong. you willl have all sorts of issues. nothing will line up.

Loosly put all bolts in, then tightening in a pattern will line everything up and pull it together.

Thats how I do it. other here do it differently.
best thing to do is look through old posts and see what has been written up about making it easier. That is how I learned of a few tricks on it.

I also want to add, you may want to give yourself some time to run to the store and buy some cheap junky tools to build some stuff to make working on the superram easier.

I cut the end of an allen wrench down to get to the allen heads on the bottom of the plenum. I also cut in a slight 45 degree edge on the tips to make sliding them in easy. if you cut an allen wrench before, you will see it no longer wants to fit in the bolt anymore till you dress up the tip.

I also got an extension and epoxied in the tip of an allen wrench to tighten the runner to base bolts.
I think I migh use a 1/4" universal in this as well.
the epoxy is used to make sure I dont drop the tip in the engine while the valve cover is off.

Last edited by bill mcdonald; Jan 9, 2007 at 03:28 PM.
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