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I can tell the sensor is going to hell so I've decided to replace it before it really pisses me off (I'm very picky). Is there anything I should know before terring into it? I'm not sure where it's even at really, so any help would be appriciated!
I did a search on here to no avail for my application. I'm having an issue with googling up a part # too. So that would be a great help too. There's one on ebay for $20 but I think the guy messed the years up! I'm still awaiting reply from him.
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is the reading out of the rotary motion sensor on the throttle blade shaft. The sensor is located on the throttle body, on the end of the pivot shaft, on the passenger side. When you turn your car "on", the PCM sees the closed throttle voltage reading, and sets this as "0%", or closed throttle. The factory spec for this seems to be as low as 0.40V, and as high as 0.70V. But, I have seen reports of systems that work fine with TPS closed voltages in the range of 0.20 to 0.90V. Some people drill out the holes in the TPS sensor and try and get the closed position voltage as close as possible to some value like 0.50V, but this doesn’t appear to be necessary. Mine always read 0.64V closed.
As you rotate the throttle shaft, the voltage climbs, typically to a value about 4V higher than the closed throttle reading, or in the range of 4.30 to 4.60V. In between, the voltage should change smoothly with throttle position."
Ans this is the Voltage swing it can see from idle to WOT:
So I'm guessing there is an adjustment for voltage parameters on the unit itself then? Wouldn't the reasoning for the tech1 tool be to adjust that or to simply read the voltages itself? Would a voltage meter be able to do the same thing or does the tech1 tool have all the necessary parts to do that?
Ok, first off how do you know the TPS is going to hell?? (without testing it, you simply cant say its no good)
You can test it with a volt meter. And i recomend you do this before you replace it.
The ECM learns the TPS position every single time you turn on the key, you dont need a TECH 1 for this. (or you would need to make it learn with a TECH 1 every time you unpluged the battery if it worked that way)
There is no adjustments on the 92-96 TPS at all. They simply screw in place with 2 TORX screws. You dont need to do anything extra. Its very easy
Ok, first off how do you know the TPS is going to hell?? (without testing it, you simply cant say its no good)
You can test it with a volt meter. And i recomend you do this before you replace it.
The ECM learns the TPS position every single time you turn on the key, you dont need a TECH 1 for this. (or you would need to make it learn with a TECH 1 every time you unpluged the battery if it worked that way)
There is no adjustments on the 92-96 TPS at all. They simply screw in place with 2 TORX screws. You dont need to do anything extra. Its very easy
I can't verify it's fate for sure but what I can tell you is under normal driving I notice some inconsistancies with the throttle/idle when my foot isn't moving. ie, rolling along (not under power) but just moving thru town and it seems to fall to an idle postion when my foot is beginning to get back into the throttle. Again, this is not a huge delimna just yet but I do notice it starting to get increasingly worse as time goes by. I'd just like to throw in another one to see for sure (or have it checked) to see if it is indeed in need of replacing. It's worth the $20 one can be had for on ebay vs. paying a shop god knows how much to test it. I have a volt meter, but I'm not even sure where to begin.
Ok, first off how do you know the TPS is going to hell?? (without testing it, you simply cant say its no good)
You can test it with a volt meter. And i recomend you do this before you replace it.
The ECM learns the TPS position every single time you turn on the key, you dont need a TECH 1 for this. (or you would need to make it learn with a TECH 1 every time you unpluged the battery if it worked that way)
There is no adjustments on the 92-96 TPS at all. They simply screw in place with 2 TORX screws. You dont need to do anything extra. Its very easy
The TPS is nothing more than a resistor "strip" which slides across a 2 prong metal contact whch variies the from just above 0v to just below 5v. There are 3 wires going to the TPS, a 5V constant supply, a Ground, and the third is the varable voltage which is dependant on the postion of the the throttle blade.
The TPS is nothing more than a resistor "strip" which slides across a 2 prong metal contact whch variies the from just above 0v to just below 5v. There are 3 wires going to the TPS, a 5V constant supply, a Ground, and the third is the varable voltage which is dependant on the postion of the the throttle blade.
So I'm assuming I could test it by poking the tester leads into the leads and measure it that way? If it is faulty how will I know? Will there be a fluctuation in voltages in the area I notice the problem? I'm also guessing the voltage increase in the rest of the TPS range (up to WOT) will be more consistant. Should I do something to avoid large amounts of gas going into the intake when it's being tested?
First place to begin is at the start. And the start is buy a GM service manuals for your car (not a Haynes or Chiltons). What youre describing here could be as simple as a dirty throttle body.
To test this sensor, get a couple fine tip pins, spear one the bottom wire and one into the middle wire (i think that is the two youll need for testing, its dark here so i cant really go out to the car and look). Then connect your voltmeter to the pins, turn on the key but dont start the engine, you should see a reading on your voltmeter, if not, youve got the wrong wires. If you have a reading, slowly open the throttle and watch the reading, it should increase smoothly as you open the throttle.
Originally Posted by FOXX
So I'm assuming I could test it by poking the tester leads into the leads and measure it that way? If it is faulty how will I know? Will there be a fluctuation in voltages in the area I notice the problem? I'm also guessing the voltage increase in the rest of the TPS range (up to WOT) will be more consistant. Should I do something to avoid large amounts of gas going into the intake when it's being tested?
You posted this while i was typing my reply, there wont be any fuel going into the intake, you will only have the key "ON", the engine will not be running.
Report your findings to us including the steady closed throttle reading as well as a steady WOT reading, and then we can move forward from there
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Dec 26, 2006 at 12:43 PM.