C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

ignition problem.

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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 04:42 PM
  #1  
dougski's Avatar
dougski
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From: Tampa Florida
Default ignition problem.

full battery..turn the key..
on position: guages up, fuel pumps start..
start position: no volts to solenoid...

inspect starter motor..solenoid terminal is broken and could have shorted to ground while engine was running..

i change out starter/solenoid

on position: guages up, fuel pumps start..
start position: no volts to solenoid...

i run wire right to solnoid..
key switch on..touch wire to pos battery terminal and the engine turns, but no volts to ignition..no firing..

what are you thoughts on a bone stock 1990 l98 ..
did i cook the computer with the terminal short?..
does anyone have an electrical diagram?

help..car is dead in the water...

Last edited by dougski; Dec 25, 2006 at 04:43 PM. Reason: speeeling
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #2  
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Carpenter
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From: Vancouver B.C.
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Check yer fuses.
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 05:52 PM
  #3  
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dougski
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Originally Posted by Carpenter
Check yer fuses.
all in the fuse box..is there some elsewhere?
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 06:03 PM
  #4  
Hooked on Vettes's Avatar
Hooked on Vettes
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From: Baltimore, MD USA
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The 12 volts for the starter solenoid comes from Fusible link A.

Fusible link A also provides 12 volts for Radio fuse, Fuel pump relay,
Brake fuse, Power seats and door lock breaker, Hatch breaker and
Stop hazzard fuse.

If those circuits still work, the Fusible link is good.

Click on my user name and e-mail or pm me your e-mail address and I'll send you the schematics for the ignition circuit.
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 06:48 PM
  #5  
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dougski
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Originally Posted by Hooked on Vettes
The 12 volts for the starter solenoid comes from Fusible link A.

Fusible link A also provides 12 volts for Radio fuse, Fuel pump relay,
Brake fuse, Power seats and door lock breaker, Hatch breaker and
Stop hazzard fuse.

If those circuits still work, the Fusible link is good.

Click on my user name and e-mail or pm me your e-mail address and I'll send you the schematics for the ignition circuit.

sent..thaks
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #6  
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jfb
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
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First jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and try a crank. Before trying a crank, measure the voltage on the jumper to ground. If you have 12 v and no cranking, you have a bad starter solenoid. If no 12v in crank position, then you need to pull the kick panel above drivers feet and find the 2 wires from behind the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplug these wires. Insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as your pellet. If over 13k ohms, then you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to your pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires from the wiring harness (goes to VATS module) until you can schedule a lock replacement. Don't permanently bypass VATS as 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 08:19 PM
  #7  
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dougski
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From: Tampa Florida
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Originally Posted by jfb
First jump the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic) and try a crank. Before trying a crank, measure the voltage on the jumper to ground. If you have 12 v and no cranking, you have a bad starter solenoid. If no 12v in crank position, then you need to pull the kick panel above drivers feet and find the 2 wires from behind the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplug these wires. Insert your ign key and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as your pellet. If over 13k ohms, then you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to your pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack the same value as your pellet across the 2 wires from the wiring harness (goes to VATS module) until you can schedule a lock replacement. Don't permanently bypass VATS as 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
i think this is what i was looking for...everything else seemed to fine except the engine control module...
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