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Replaced the distributor on my 84 and don't seem to be able to time. Car was timed ok before replacement, 6 degrees. Car starts but timing mark shows up way before the tab, I'm thinking i'm one tooth off. Does this seem right, if so which way would i rotate, ccw? If i put damper on 6 degrees and put distributor in so the cap is pointing at #1 would this be right?
No, what you want to do is bring #1 up to TDC, make sure it's on the compression stroke, when the indicator is pointing at TDC on the harmonic balancer your rotor should be pointing at #1 on the dist. But I think you're right about being at least a tooth off, I'd gently lift the dist. and rotate it a tooth, and it's early but I think it would be ccw.
Don't forget to disconnect the EST when you time it.
Turn the rotor clockwise a tooth or two. You will have to put a flat blade screw driver down the hole and turn the oil pump drive shaft clockwise an equal amount.
If i put damper on 6 degrees and put distributor in so the cap is pointing at #1 would this be right?
Assuming that is 6* btdc on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder...YES. If you can do this by rotating the distributor body, pulling the distributor up and moving it a tooth, one way or the other, is a waste of time. The only way this won't work is if the ring on your damper has moved.
I've got one cw and one ccw, i've got a 50% chance anyway, i'll let you know if this fixes it.
Turning the distributor ccw will advance engine timing. Once you set up #1 cylinder on the compression stroke and the harmonic balancer at "0" you shouldn't have to worry about getting the distributor one tooth off. There should be enough adjustment "rotation" of the distributor to get the timing right. In fact you can make any lead on the distributor cap become #1 as long as you move all of the spark plug wires accordingly.
Its a new balancer and like i said the old distributor was set at 6 degrees. The new one is shows the mark way before , cw from mark, where it should be. Really doesn't seem to have enough movement to adjust. Before when i disconnected the advance wire i did'nt see any difference at idle but that didn't bother me, i figured it wouldn't advance timing until rpm were added. Now when i disconnect wire the engine jumps to 1800 rpm. I guess the electronic advance must work different than i figured.
Last time I was off 1-2 teeth I couldn't rotate the dist. far enough because the coil cap hit the intake, and I don't like to move the plug wires to accomdate, so I just lifted gently and rotated the dist. didn't even have to mess with the oil pump shaft. As far as the EST, when you disconnect it you can set and see 6*, but when you re-connect it and hit it with the timing light it will be some where around 20-25*
I'm confused by your questions, maybe because it's early.
If your setting your timing, if the mark on dampener is ccw of timing tab, you have too much advance and will need to retard by turning the dist clockwise. If you run out of room to adjust, you will need to pull the dist, turn the rotor ccw and adjust the oil pump drive shaft an equal amount and re-install dist, then try and adjust timing again.
If the timing mark is clockwise of timing tab, you are too retarded and will need to turn the dist ccw. If you run of of adjustment, you will need to pull the dist, turn the rotor clockwise and adjust oil pump drive shaft an equal amount, replace dist and try resetting timing.
If the timing mark is clockwise of timing tab, you are too retarded and will need to turn the dist ccw. If you run of of adjustment, you will need to pull the dist, turn the rotor clockwise and adjust oil pump drive shaft an equal amount, replace dist and try resetting timing.
This describes my problem. Won't have a chance to work on it until the weekend, will let you all know what fixes it. Thanks.
One last follow up for the people who were helping me. New distributor is bad. Tried the electronic module from my old one still wouldn't run right. Put old distributor back together and reinstalled same as i had been doing all along, car started right up and was able to time with no problems. The only other thing left to replace in new distributor is the pickup coil, never heard one going bad but it has to be. This was a rebuilt distrutor i picked up off ebay and it looks new with all new insides but i guess new doesn't always mean good. One of the corvette parts dealers was the one selling so it wasn't a fly by night company. You know the worst part of this job was getting the bolt back in the hold down clamp, no room and fat hands i guess, once i got it started i have a wrench to tighten. Once again thanks for all the help, great forum.
you can check the pickup coil with an ohm meter..disconnect the pick-up coil wires from the module, connect the ohm meter to each terminal of the p/u coil wire (one at a time) and ground it to the dist. base, the ohm meter reading should indicate infinite resistance, if it doesn't the coil is bad.also connect the ohm meter between both terminals of of the p/u coil connector, flex the wires while doing so, you should get a steady value of 500-1500 ohms as the wires are flexed, if not the p/u coil is bad. Good luck, replacing the p/u coil ain't fun.