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the ses light does come on after running a few min.
when you turn the key on the ses light does not come on and i can not pull flash codes.
i can jump the fan relay,the a&b port wires,the fan does not come on.
on the positive battery cable there is a fuseable link comeing off of it.
the link has been cut.
so far i have found the fuseable link wire cut that goes to something,
a purple wire that turns white or tan that goes to something,
wires for #6injector held togeter with duct tape,
every spark plug boot on right bank melted.
as for see chart a-1. http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/No...it%20Check.pdf
Last edited by 427notch; Jan 31, 2007 at 03:31 AM.
That is NOT a sender. It is merely a switch. Now that you have found the AUXILIARY fan switch, show us how it over rides the ECM for running the main fan.
I don't mean to say you can't wire it that way, but Chevy never did on the C4s.
Originally Posted by anesthes
I'll scan the schematic tomorrow, my books are at the shop.
thanks, agent 86.
i will see what i can do with this info.
i will try to find out where the fuseable link off the positive cable goes to first.
i pulled the plugs on the left bank last night ,they looked ok.
the boots on the right bank were melted and the plugs were not tight.
it should not be to hard to get the car running good.
yes it is a heck of a mess,but its not that bad.
this car had set for 2years.
i bought the car the car today.
2500.00 for a vette was a good deal.
now i have a few problems.
the haynes manual i have says the cooling fan temp sensor is in the right head behind the dipstick.there is no sensor there nor is there a harness for 1.
the sensor i found is in the left head just behind #1 cylinder,again no harness.the cooling fan is not working. what color wire should i be looking for to hook to the fan sensor?
after running a few min the car surges and the ses light comes on.
i cant pull any codes thru the adal .
the tach is inop because its not hooked up.i have a purple looking wire that connects into a kind of tan looking wire,(is this the tach wire?)
the engine runs a little rough,but half of the plug wires are loose on the cap and the timing is off, but engine hold 63psi of oil pressure.
the gauge in the dash shows coolant temp as low,it never said anything else,but i know the engine was getting hot.
The pics are a little dark for me to tell much from. I do see the coolant temp guage sender though. Now you just have to find the green wire that goes down beside the starter. As for the tach wire...it comes from the distrubitor as a white wire and the tach filter on my 86 is mounted to the rear left cylinder head. Fom there the white wire goes to a connector at the left center firewall (hard to see) where it goes in to the firewall.
It might help to use a light above the camera so the pics come out brighter...if you take more.
ok,tonight i did a major tune up on the car.
the white or tan wire was for the tach.
tach works now,just cant see it.
i had the battery out charging and found a group of red wires tied together in tape,so i tied the fuseable link wire thats in the positive battery cable into these wires.i wish gm would have used wire numbers like freightliner.
i turned the key on and the ses light is on.i pulled flash code 12 out.
started the engine and it went out.
after a few min the ses light came on.
so,i turn the car off and it stays running.pull the wire and the car dies.
any sugestion on where to start at.
i think i got a bad relay somewhere or this wire doesn't go there.
i'm kind of leaning toward a bad relay because i dont see anywhere else this wire could go.
the sensor you see in the pic is in the left head.
there is not a sensor in the right head,no green wires there.
i also pulled the harness apart behind the dist no green wires.
so,i turn the car off and it stays running.pull the wire and the car dies.
any sugestion on where to start at.
i think i got a bad relay somewhere or this wire doesn't go there.
i'm kind of leaning toward a bad relay because i dont see anywhere else this wire could go.
It isn't likely that a relay is keeping the engine running after you shut off the key. What wire do you think doesn't go where? It sounds as though you could really use the whole car wiring schematic that comes with the FSM.
Originally Posted by 427notch
the sensor you see in the pic is in the left head.
there is not a sensor in the right head,no green wires there.
i also pulled the harness apart behind the dist no green wires.
The sensor in the left head, is for the auxiliary fan, in your year. Remember, the hole for the sensor in the right head is in the back, between the #6 and # 8 spark plugs. The sender that belongs in the the right head is for the temp gauge. Does the gauge work?
The sensor in the left head, is for the auxiliary fan, in your year. Remember, the hole for the sensor in the right head is in the back, between the #6 and # 8 spark plugs. The sender that belongs in the the right head is for the temp gauge. Does the gauge work?
the only thing the gauge says is low also the oil temp says low.
the right side of the dash does work.it's just hard to see.
It isn't likely that a relay is keeping the engine running after you shut off the key. What wire do you think doesn't go where? It sounds as though you could really use the whole car wiring schematic that comes with the FSM
the wire is the fuseable link wire that comes off the positive battery cable.i will try to get some better pics tonight.
i'm also going to make a jumper harness at work tonight,so i can work in the battery area.
all kinds of wires taped up in there.
the only thing the gauge says is low also the oil temp says low.
the right side of the dash does work.it's just hard to see.
Try turning the ignition to "On" and grounding the wire at the switch in the left head. That should cause the auxiliary fan to run. If it doesn't, just for the heck of it, take a look at the temp gauge. It shouldn't, but has it changed?
Originally Posted by 427notch
the wire is the fuseable link wire that comes off the positive battery cable.i will try to get some better pics tonight.
i'm also going to make a jumper harness at work tonight,so i can work in the battery area.
all kinds of wires taped up in there.
The small wire that is part of the battery cable isn't a fusible link. The terminal behind the battery receives battery power (from that wire?) and fusible links connect to it that lead to the fan relays, the oil pressure switch, fuel pump relay, etc. Nothing that connects to that terminal or any of the fusible links should allow the engine to continue to run after the ignition is turned to "Off". You may have to work backward from the distributor to find the source of the unswitched ignition power. The pink wire connected to the "BAT" terminal at the distributor cap is supposed to be powered by the ignition switch, only when, "On".
i found a green wire with what might be a white stripe.this wire is in the harness with the broken O2 sensor wire.
on the right side of the engine behind the starter i found the remains of a wire that at one time had a female spad end.
also i checked terminal E at the fan relay .it had no power.
key on the pink wire has power,with the key off the pink wire does not have power but the engine will stay running.
i had to pull the coil wire to get the car to quit running.
i was able to pull the codes witch took me to the o2 sensor.
when i removed the plugs on the right side they looked gas fouled,right side looked brand new.
i found a green wire with what might be a white stripe.this wire is in the harness with the broken O2 sensor wire.
on the right side of the engine behind the starter i found the remains of a wire that at one time had a female spad end.
That very well could be the wire for the IP temp gauge. With someone in the car, have them switch the ignition to "On" and watch the gauge while you ground that wire underneath the car. If the gauge goes to full scale (299*?) you've identified one more circuit. Buy a gauge temp sensor and connect it up.
Originally Posted by 427notch
also i checked terminal E at the fan relay .it had no power.
In my schematic "E" is unused. "D" is connected to the fusible link and hot all the time.
Originally Posted by 427notch
key on the pink wire has power,with the key off the pink wire does not have power but the engine will stay running.
i had to pull the coil wire to get the car to quit running.
That proves the ignition switch is wired and operating properly, at least as far as the distributor is concerned. Like I said earlier, there shouldn't be a relay powering your ignition, but as hacked up as that car is... you never know. Since the "BAT" terminal isn't hot with the engine and the ignition "Off", I suspect an improper connection is feeding alternator current to the "BAT" terminal of the distributor cap when the engine is running. That would explain no power with the engine and switch "Off" but power with the engine running and the switch "Off". Just a hunch.
i jumped the orange wire that i had to the alt.the wire it was tied to went to the fan relay.i gave the fan relay 12volts off the batt(temp repair to fuseable link)i repaired the wire that goes to the o2 sensor.
i can now turn the car off with the key and pull the codes.
i still have the 13 code.
the car idles about 1200rpm now.the left bank is not getting as hot as the right.
right bank is good,left bank is bad, all the plugs were gas fouled on the left bank before i changed them.
will a bad o2 sensor cause one side of the engine to run fat or any idea why one side of the engine is rich?
A bad O2 will not make one bank richer. Check the left bank for a ground short in injector harness. The ECM supplys a ground to fire injectors, if there is a short in an injector or any part of that harness, all the injectors will be stuck on(in that bank). http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2013.pdf
Yeah, sounds like you have a injector wiring/circuitry problem now. I would check all the connections at the injectors and ECM.
By curiosity, what color is the wire you have going to the O2 sensor?
Is it connected good?
Does the wire look good as far as insultation and not touching the exhaust?
i think the problem with the o2 sensor has to due with the left bank not getting hot.
you can cook on the right side and make ice on the left.
i pulled a compression check on left side.compression is a 120lbs.
i can run the engine with the left side injectors unplugged.
as i start to plug them back up there is a very slight change or none at all.the harness checks the same as the left.
i know i have compression,air and spark.
i'm now wondering if i have fuel on the left side.