When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
a scan with the 24# Accels in with a stock chip. BLM's always dropped to 108. Haven't ran a scan with the stock injectors yet, but you would think after all I have done with this car as far as troubleshooting...that going back to stock would help.
I would think so, unless they were leaking .....and 108 is maxed. What I would do is first get that scanner up and flying, and not worry to much until some solid data could be attained. I read your post in scan and tune, I seem to remember Craig had a new one on his site with an auto feature. Try him around 10ish in the morning-to early afternoon...seems like a good time for a "walk through"
I would like you guys to list me out things on a Corvette or any vehicle than you have seen or know that will make a stock engine/stock chip run rich. The component and why. Open and closed loop.
I am going to start fresh and check over all things again. Thank you
How far are you from craig moates? He might be able to help you.
I would think so, unless they were leaking .....and 108 is maxed. What I would do is first get that scanner up and flying, and not worry to much until some solid data could be attained. I read your post in scan and tune, I seem to remember Craig had a new one on his site with an auto feature. Try him around 10ish in the morning-to early afternoon...seems like a good time for a "walk through"
Talked to him this morning. The drivers he has on his website are for Windows XP and I am using Windows 98 SE. That's why I'm getting nowhere. He is going to give me a link that I can use the the Windows 98
Did you change the cam in this car? what you have sounds like the timing chain was installed 4 degrees retarded.
I asked the previous owner what had been done to the car. I directly asked about the cam. He said it had never been changed. I agree that something is wrong. It's running rich, but not flooded ruch and runs like a low performance 4 cylinder. We pulled the engine, but never took the timing chain cover off.
I am very serious when I say my wifes Ford Explorer 4.0L could out run it. There is no power when WOT.
just stating the obvious here, have you checked the timming on it?
what year is this?
how about some info on the car.
did you just get it?
have you ran out the tank of gas in it since purchase (you mentioned adding something to the gas)?
If you have old gas in it, it will run like ****. been there done that.
Last edited by bill mcdonald; Feb 6, 2007 at 04:03 PM.
Talked to him this morning. The drivers he has on his website are for Windows XP and I am using Windows 98 SE. That's why I'm getting nowhere. He is going to give me a link that I can use the the Windows 98
that answers the laptop problem at least....hopefully you get the 98 version up and running. If that doesn't work out, try Marc Mansur, he would also be help find or probably has some 98 drivers.
Originally Posted by bill mcdonald
have you checked the timming on it?
Good point, throwing a T. light on it might clear up if it is a gear/chain or other timing related , I would also check it with and w/out est.
just stating the obvious here, have you checked the timming on it?
what year is this?
how about some info on the car.
did you just get it?
have you ran out the tank of gas in it since purchase (you mentioned adding something to the gas)?
If you have old gas in it, it will run like ****. been there done that.
Yes on the timing. It was previously set at 8* BTDC during most of my scans I did on it. I noticed the only two things that really stood out were the BLM and knock counts (alot). I just recently set it at 10* BTDC to see if it would help.
This a 1986E project car that my father and I started in 2000. Everything to my knowledge is stock except for the EGR pipe was deleted and it has a hollow cat and Dynomax mufflers. The car was bought at a auction for having an engine fire. It sat up for ~4 years untouched. There is more to it than that. I ran out of gas one time, due to the gas guage reading full when it was empty, but the problem has been here for awhile before that.
that answers the laptop problem at least....hopefully you get the 98 version up and running. If that doesn't work out, try Marc Mansur, he would also be help find or probably has some 98 drivers.
Good point, throwing a T. light on it might clear up if it is a gear/chain or other timing related , I would also check it with and w/out est.
I am about to try it out. I see he has it on his site now.
I work with a guy that builds engines and is pretty knowledgable. I told him what was going on and he said it sounds like and ignition problem. Namely the igniton coil. This sounds like a posibility and I will need to investigate further.
My father rode with me some time back and said it sounds like an ignition problem also.
EDIT: wonder if this also has anything with my tach reading 88 all the time. The tach filter has been replaced.
Last edited by RRT vette; Feb 8, 2007 at 07:47 AM.
I work with a guy that builds engines and is pretty knowledgable. I told him what was going on and he said it sounds like and ignition problem. Namely the igniton coil. This sounds like a posibility and I will need to investigate further.
My father rode with me some time back and said it sounds like an ignition problem also.
Have you put a vac gauge on it? I keep forgetting your car is '86 and running the MAF setup. I converted mine to MAP.
I don't want to beat a dead horse, but after you try the coil, you need to get a scan log. I'd start with a full mechanical check again. compression test, leakdown test, valve lash, check the lifters (with a mag base) make sure they are all lifting and not saying open, check valve springs for anything broken. Set motor to TDC make sure the timing chain isn't off and #1 valves are both closed, stuff like that.
If you were local i'd have you swing by my shop. Sounds like a mystery i'd love to solve.
Someone mentioned it, did you check with a timing light, and rev the motor to make sure the EST was advancing properly? You could also have a bad ESC module.
Have you put a vac gauge on it? I keep forgetting your car is '86 and running the MAF setup. I converted mine to MAP.
I don't want to beat a dead horse, but after you try the coil, you need to get a scan log. I'd start with a full mechanical check again. compression test, leakdown test, valve lash, check the lifters (with a mag base) make sure they are all lifting and not saying open, check valve springs for anything broken. Set motor to TDC make sure the timing chain isn't off and #1 valves are both closed, stuff like that.
If you were local i'd have you swing by my shop. Sounds like a mystery i'd love to solve.
Someone mentioned it, did you check with a timing light, and rev the motor to make sure the EST was advancing properly? You could also have a bad ESC module.
-- Joe
No, I have not used a vac guage yet. That is one thing I need to get. Just going from feel...the vacuum is strong on all lines. I really do need to get a scan, but still having trouble with my laptop as of now. I did most of the things stated. I didn't check the valve lash or lifters. Cylinder compression is good (avg 160-165 psi). I have checked the timing and it seems fine. With the EST connected the balancer mark is about 22* or at 12 o'clock and does advance with reving. I also followed the FSM and reved the engine at ~2,000 RPM and tapped next to the knock sensor with a crowbar and the idle dropped. The hight knock counts I got last time I scanned does worry me though.
A fellow forum member contacted me today and has offered to help figure this thing out. He lives ~30 min away, the only problem is finding a good time to get together.
I am going to check the igniton coil when I get time, before just purchasing one and hoping.