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I just got done (last night) replacing the torque converter in my 87. I was having a lock up issue - unplugging the wires made my troubles go away. I did a lot of research on this, and all arrows point to an overheated transmission if you run your car without the lock up.
I'm responding to your post because of what I read in the instructions of my new B&M converter. It said if you want to run it without the lock up, clip the red wire (I wouldn't do that...probably just unplug it?) and make sure you run an aftermarket trans cooler to prevent overheating. It stressed that not running an aftermarket cooler will cook the tranny.
I haven't taken my car down the road yet. I still want the lock up feature, so if it is acting up, I have a few more things to check. If I run into a dead end, I am going to install that trans cooler and say FU to the lock up.
In 85 or 86, there was an internal change to the pump that would allow them to survive in the event of a lock up failure. The 84 model year will burn up very quickly with the lock up not working.
My opinion on lock up is that it is a very worthwhile part of the trans. I personally would not disable it in anything except for a high powered drag car. The gas savings alone usually make the repairs worth it. The trans will run cooler locked up.
Thanks to all for the replies. I just had a rebuilt trans put in this last October. I have put about 100 miles on the car since the torque was unplugged. I am going to plug it back in tomorrow.
Any chance I have damaged the tranny in that short a time? Also, what are the repairs to fix the torque converter? Does it have to be replaced and why would they not have done this when they rebuilt the transmission?
A typical professional rebuild includes a cooler flush and a new (remanufactured) torque converter. If the shop did not provide one, they did not do you right. If they reused it, it may be the problem. It could also be the pressure switches in the valve body or the lock up solenoid as well. I would suggest testing these as well, to avoid parts swapping.
I just changed my torque converter. Went with a B&M 2400 stall...but I was planning on doing this anyway for the strip (it happened sooner than later). My original torque converter had 103k with a new rebuilt tranny and a 383. It progressively got worse - pulled the plug and it was awesome. If it still vibrates, I'll check the selonoid, etc.. The swap was easier than I thought it would be. Now I just have to wait for the roads to get better to see how she goes. I just do not understand drivng 'em in the snow.