Windshield replacement parts list w/ prices

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Mine cost State Farm Insurance about $750, it cost me nothing as I keep a zero deductible on my comprehensive. A passing flatbed lost a rock that put a small chip in the windshield. I called my agent and they just automatically set up a replacement, including all new weatherstripping.

Central Coaster--They BUTCHERED your car!!!!!!!!!!! The weatherstripping is not glued at the factory, just pressed in as I said earlier. AND, a good installer does not glue replacement weatherstripping in either. I have never heard anything bad about Wilcox weatherstripping. Yours is sure to leak, and leak badly! Also, when the weatherstripping and the metal retainers were removed would have been the best (maybe only) time to check the A pillar for corrosion. And there was no reason to move or remove the dash pad.
Keep taking pictures, you might end up in court over this one.

 

I'm thinking I should have them remove the weatherstripping and trim, and I'll do the install from there. There is no way in hell they will be able to do the work without screwing something else up.

If they can't pull the weatherstripping without destroying it they will be buying me a new one of those as well.

It seems to be installed too high, especially at the corners. This is probably because they didn't get it tucked under the plastic at the top of the A-pillars properly before glueing it in or however they attached it.

 

Mine ended almost exactly like this. But your retainer gaps are worse.

Water will be getting through between the glass and retainer in these 3 pics. This due to the unsealed gap between glass and bent reused retainers. There was a bead of sealant in the first two pics factory where the gaps are that ran along the top and down both sides. And where you have the red arrow, water will get in because the retainer back is bent and no longer flush with the frame.

I found a s**tload of water entering these areas and onto the carpet the next time I washed it after the install. And my wipers now hung up on the hood too because they used too much silicone at the base.

The manager agreed to fix it free of charge when I took it back to show them. Then the guy who helped install it came out to see and began to bitch that he had to do it all over again. I almost ended up kicking the guys *** in front of his manager because of his attitude. Dude was acting like it was my fault and chit he f'ed up and would have to re do it. Said I should have used new retainers but had told me before the install that reusing the old would be OK. I decided to fix it myself instead of letting this guy put his hands on my car again.

I went out and got a small tube of this for about $4.00 at the hardware store.



I applied a thin continuous bead down both sides and across the top in the gaps seen in your pics. I used clear so it's not noticeable against the edge of the glass. But black would have blended in better than clear in the area where you got the red arrow though. I simply ran my pinky finger across it to smooth it out like inside an aquarium and push it deeper into the gap at the same time. It came out superb, is un noticeable, and all the leaks fixed.


For certain jobs, it's not always the best idea to simply go with the lowest quote like I did. Those mobile glass installers are just trying to fly through each job and go onto the next. So quality suffers and not enough attention to detail.

I also had simlar fitment and aligment problems of the weatherstrip like you have pictured. I straightened it all out with some finess before the glue set in.

Do you wipers hang on the hood?

 

Try to get it right by the windshield people, but if you can't, you can call your credit card company and cancel the payment. They won't pay the vendor for 30 days, so you have time. You just have to say you weren't satisfied w/ the service.

Why aren't you using your insurance to pay for this? As far as I know, there is a seperate glass deductible for these things that is way low. It doesn't even matter how it breaks. I accidently broke my own windshield by shutting the hood on a phone, and my insurance covered it, including new G.M. weatherstripping. The windshield place wanted to use aftermarket at half the cost, but since I only had to pay the same ($100) I insisted on factory. Also, you can go to the most expensive place. I have heard other people's insurance makes them go places like Safetilite or whatever. They also don't use PPG glass. They use house brand. You can request PPG at no extra cost (w/ insurance).

 

$500 deductible.

My insurance co. covers glass repairs for free, but replacement uses the deductible.

 

Like so.


Below is the metal pillar retainer. Disregard the dust.

 

[QUOTE=86PACER;1559207608]

I applied a thin continuous bead down both sides and across the top in the gaps seen in your pics. I used clear so it's not noticeable against the edge of the glass. But black would have blended in better than clear in the area where you got the red arrow though. I simply ran my pinky finger across it to smooth it out like inside an aquarium and push it deeper into the gap at the same time. It came out superb, is un noticeable, and all the leaks fixed.


QUOTE]

All very good points. Just to add a little. The 100% silicon is darn good idea and black is best. Run masking tape along both sides, leaving a very narrow gap that you are going to seal. Put down a narrow bead of silicone and then smooth it with a WET finger. I actually like to use the thin plastic "Dr" gloves. Keep the finger wet in either case. Once you have the silicon properly smoothed out take the masking tape off slowly and carefully. Do not wait for it to dry at all. Then give it 24 hours to cure. Again hoping this helps, but I really think you need new retainer strips.

 

Another pic. You get the point. Black silicone would have looked a little better though.

 

I mentioned this to them, that it looked like tons of water would run into there, they said, "Oh, no, no problem the windshield is sealed all the way around the frame.

"Yeah BUT, this looks like it will get behind the weatherstripping or run down and drip into the door."


I looked at an 86 vette today, his was a replacement (was even worse than mine!), and he had this thin seal under the moldings, between them and the glass.

 

That's what their manager first told me. Then I grabbed a jug of water and poured it over the windshield while I had him sit inside the car with the doors closed. The water just poured in. He conceded.

 

I will try that. If he's not convinced, I will pour it on his head.

 

Let me start off by saying not everyone does such terrible work. Before I go further let me tell you I am an NGA certified Master Tech with more than 25 years of autoglass experience. For 12 years I managed a large (more than 1 million in sales) store for one of the largest glass shops in the nation. Thank God it wasn't the "S" one.

First, a Corvette was never done in a parking lot, driveway or someones garage. It is a far too difficult installation for that. The only place it was done was in the shop, or at a bodyshop. Then, only by my best techs.

I have worked on C4s since they hit the road. I have done several dozen myself and from the very start the customer was made aware of the fact that the weatherstrip, reveal mouldings and retainers may need to be replaced. While we did our very best to save these items, sometimes it was just impossible.

I have never come across a car where the weatherstrip was not glued into the retainers. They are not just a pinch fit as has been suggested. Moreover, while the factory did not intend for the reveal mouldings to be glued to the A pillars, you will more than likely find them stuck due to the urethane being squeezed from the windshield when it was set. Bye the way, that foam strip on the bottom is there to keep the w/s from sinking too close to the cowl when it was set. If you were to look around the A pillars and top post's original urethane you would find small rubber blocks that did the same.

Using silicone to seal the w/s and mouldings is a BIG mistake. The chemical make up of silicone WILL promote rust. The factory used a 2 sided foam tape to seal the reveal mouldings and retainers to eliminate the water problems you have mentioned.

Since it seems you have exhausted all reasonable cures to you dilema with the original shop, I would suggest to you that you find a reputable shop to do a proper and complete install. If your insurance co. had this done get them involved. If you paid for it, take them to court. Just remember, you usually get what you pay for. If the price is way below what you've been finding it's because of 1 of 2 things. Either the shop cuts the price and makes up for it in volume, which in turns pressures the tech into cutting corners, or they use inferior products. Only the vinyl innerlayer is regulated to D.O.T. specs. Look out when you find a shop that does both!!

I feel for you. I have had to remedy this problem before. But I can assure you that there are other craftsmen out there that will take pride in their work and treat your Vette as it should be.

 

What do you guys think is reasonable to ask for at this point?


I don't want anything to do with them, but it will cost way more than what I paid them to replace the weatherstrip again and buy new moldings. So just cancelling the payment may not be the best solution.

I'm guessing the weatherstrip may need to be removed in order to do it right. If this is damaged, there's another $150. And they'd probably screw up something else. I wonder if their best guy is even capable. I mean, what sort of expert windshield installer is going to work for a Safelite paycheck?

I'd rather just have them try and remove the new weatherstrip, buy me a new one if they can't, and buy me two side reveal moldings. I'll do the install. The rest of the stuff is probably ok.

 

Since you have alreaady purchased one weatherstrip that they mis-installed asking them to replace it is not an unfair request.

I would not recommend that you do the install yourself. Doing so negates any claim you have against their shoddy work. Go above the management of the shop that did the install. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. If they don't seem to have a tech that is capable of the install, tell them that you will find a shop that you are comfortable with and they will foot the bill for the replacement of all that you have paid for.

If they don't agree to this, take them to court. In my experience you have a very good case. Just a side note, your OEM glass was most likely supplied by LOF, although PPG is just as high in quality. I seriously doubt that s used either.

 

Yes the w/s is sealed with glue, that, if these idiots did that job right won't leak.

However with C4 vette, unlike most cars, the weatherstripping seals the top and door glass, so if that is not properly installed leaking will occur.


I did not know you used safelite, I would have under no circumstances used them.

!. They use their own glass
2. You don't know if the installer has 20 years or 20 days experience
3. They are all about jamming work out installer do 10-13 jobs a day
we almost never have a truck out with more than 7-8

You need to get ahold of a manager and tell them to fix the car back to it's previous condition. If that means replacing a dash pad then make it so.

 

Maybe ask that they contract the job to a repair shop or Corvette shop of your liking?

 

The only Corvette shop I like is the one in my garage.

The glass used is Pilkington. I don't see how the weatherstrip or trim install requires any special skill. It requires careful attention by a perfectioninst, which I have. I don't have 10 thumbs.

Once they pay for the damaged parts, if it leaks, its my fault, which I am content with.

 

Pilkington Drops LOF from Company Name

PPG is another vendor that supplied glass for C4s. My OEM hatch
is PPG, my OEM door glass is LOF. The OEM windshield was LOF,
and has since been replaced by one from PPG.

For information on tools and techniques, may I suggest
Michael J. Davis' book 'Corvette Water Leak and Wind Noise Solutions'

ASIN: B000ECUB80



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How can anyone call themselves pros when they do work like that. I couldnt possibly consider giving a car back with it looking like that. I would think that they would take their workmanship into consideration when doing a car for someone especiall considering how much they charge for their work. I would not only be embarresed about turning a car back to the owner like that but I would be ashamed of myself.