This motor is coming together and is the car with just a few issues left to resolve. Some interesting stuff came up in the final assembly.

The oil pan was clearanced for the main caps at the shop. After I put the pan on, I found that the rod bolts hit the scraper. It was an ugly sound. I had the heads on at the time and it sounded like a valve snapped when the rod bolt "plucked" the scraper. I used a BFH to bend the scraper out of the way. The motor spins freeely and quietly now



The Crower crank has the threads very deep in the snout so I had to use threaded rod and a couple nuts in front of the bearing and washer from an installer. It worked out quite well. I flattened the rod in a little section so I could hold it with channel locks while turning the nut. The new balancer bolt is 1 inch longer than standard (~3.5" v 2.5").


However, the 3-piece cover is thick where the timing pointer mounts and here was the initial result. I trimmed the pointer mounting area in half and all is well.


I love the way this looks. Very racy.


Here is the long block together.


Here we are in car. The hood clears w/out an air cleaner, with the drop down air cleaner I need 1 1/2" inches.
Best quote ever from my wife..
"That engine looks a lot different"
Me: "Yeah? How so?" (I was surprised she noticed)
"As the wife of the driver, kind of scary"



I am currently working on..

• Oil filter relocation
• Headers are ready for test fit (TPIS that had flange cut and 18* flange tacked on, I pick them up tonight)
• Valve cover needs trimmed to fit under wiper motor.
• Fuel rail shortening (the one's supplied by builder are pretty generic and too long. I need to cut and re-tap)
• Alter rear susp bump stop to clear new wheels (12.5 wide)

This has required a lot of thought and trips to the local hardware store. Their fastener section is a mans toy store, quite literally 10 times that of a home depot/lowes. Especially helpful since auto engineers like to use odd-ball size and thread pitch combos. Even had the 1/2 NPT tap for the rails (HD and Lowes did not).

There are easier routes but I am really having fun on soooo many levels.

 

Looks great!

Have you thought about using an elbow so that you could use a regular throttle body? more hood clearance

 

It looks huge stuffed in that engine compartment. Are you concerend about cooling that monster?

Great Job!

 

Boy I can't wait to see this one!!! What size headers are you going with?

 

I hope you have it running by Skyline, though that run would barely warm it up. At any rate I'll chase you guys down wherever you get together. Can't wait to see it on the road.

 

Dont mean to be a smart azz, but it looks like your throttle body is on backwards. Wont that make it run backwards?
All joking aside, very

 

Nice

 

I have had a DeWitts for a couple years now that I ran with the 408. Top notch radiator, I don't see any problems.

Seriously...can it be put on backwards? I am trying to decide which way to put it for the easiest throttle cable hook up

1 3/4". After seeing Corky go from 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 on his 434 and gain nothing and the existing header modifications being a $250 job, it was the way to go.

 

What exactly does the combo consist of? Brand heads, can see they are 18* by the offset.

Compression?

Looks good, maybe we can race together this summer.

Also, the shop up here is open for solid rear installs

 

Looking good

 

The TB can be installed one way only unless, you route your throttle cable around the front and pull it towards the front. The two front bores are the primary bores they open first just like a Q jet. You could physically mount it that way, but the cable still has to pull it open. Just as it was designed.

 

 

Why do you need wiper motors? Very cool, dude!

 

Looks MEAN in there, Steve - very cool!!

You've got more patience than me - I simply removed the wiper motor and called it a day .

Keep the updates coming!!

Dan

 

Keep the progress pics coming...Nice build.

 

That is a good question I have asked myself many times. I got an inspection form from Summit Point for road course events and it seems to require working wipers and washer system. I don't drive the car in the rain simply because it's no fun. Otherwise.."Be gone with you!!"

Jesse,

• Aluminum Brodix block
• Crower/JE internals.
• Compression came to 11.6, a bit higher than I wanted but starting with 54cc chambers, not too bad.
• The heads are 18* chevy 363 castings done by Auto Specialties many years ago with T&D rockers.
• Intake is a converted Edelbrock 2959 that Wilson worked over (their name is engraved on the side).
• Top end cost was less than 3K including the conversion, new seals and springs.
• Cam is (damn-it I keep forgetting to get my cam card from the shop) mid 240's duration and .600 after lash. This was where the heads maxed out at 340+cfm.
• BTW, the shop doing my headers had a Miller 210 there...a beast for home use. They were using it on a Pro-Stockish fiberglass bodied Mustang

I wil get some pics of the headers this weekend. They need a little tweaking. As I was told before the heads end up a little higher and farther out than standard heads.

 

Steve, I know you are not building that as a drag car, but will I see you at the strip? It sure is impressive!!

 

i

It's not drag specific, but it is fun specific so I will definitely be at the track with it. Likely no more than drag radials to help save the rear though.

Things have been pretty crazy past couple years and I have not been to any track in some time. That changes in may.

 

Thats a shame.....

 

Some of the four hole TBs have all four barrels opening at the same rate. The different models are the same price, just different linkage set-up to allow all barrels to act as primaries.

Aaron