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It does seem to have an effect compared to my 4+3 with the sprung hub. Although I haven't driven a pull type clutch with the fbody flywheel to compare, so the short travel and higher pressure plate force could be partly to blame. The clutch is a bit more grabby, so it takes a little more finess to engage seemlessly from a standstill. (My car is a bad example, because my throttle body is all screwed up and binds when trying to feather it off idle.)
Basically what it means is if you toss someone your keys they'll probably stall it a few times while getting a feel for it. I haven't noticed any difference while racing.
Did you have to do any machine work to the flywheel? The FAQ suggests using a LT1 style flywheel and milling it .090" (thats a lot!).
For what it's worth, on my formula from like 5 years ago, I had a ram 6 padal race clutch, but I had them put a sprung hub in it for street use. That was dumb because any time you slipped the clutch, and it chattered it would amplify like a slingshot. be like a 16 year old driver.
Joe, the 4+3/D44 yoke splines stop 1/2" before the front of the yoke. It looks like the output seal was riding almost exactly 1.25" in front of the balancer.
Also the first 1" of the yoke OD ahead of the balancer is pretty rough/rusty. I'm not sure if that means GM didn't polish that part of it, or just that it was shiny there and just corroded from being exposed to the elements for 20+ years.
Good good. I got the D44 driveshaft on the way, so hopefully when I get it together i'll have about the same clearance. I want this to be as 'bolt in' as possible.
I should talk to Tom at Pro Street about stocking shifters or at least shifter sticks for the swap.
The adapter changes should be done by today. I spoke with Tom last night. He's going to move the mounting holes fro the cbeam 3/4" forward, and bring them about 1/2" or more closer to the centerline of the transmission.
I ordered my D44 driveshaft from vette2vette as well. Pickin up a tranny this weekend. All I need now is the McLeod shifter and the correct speedo gears (and the completed T5 adapter of course).
I ordered my D44 driveshaft from vette2vette as well. Pickin up a tranny this weekend. All I need now is the McLeod shifter and the correct speedo gears (and the completed T5 adapter of course).
What rear end gears do you have? I'm confused cuz I thought you had a dana44 rear end already cuz you had a 4+3 tranny?
Err I just realized you have an 84. So you got the Dana36 too. Good for you, no driveshaft shortening problems.
Did you call mcleod about the shifter? I havn't bothered since I'm gona modify the hurst I have but it would be nice to know the price + part number.
I'm also gonna call hurst monday and ask them about offset sticks. It looks as if they might already have one with the 7/8" bolt spacing.
As long as the bolts don't interfere with the side of the trans casing. That was a problem to work around on the TKO bracket.
Yeah. Eventually the cbeam will hit the shifter mount before the bolts hit the case though. I just want him to bring it in as close to stock location as possible.
I'm almost positive the CBeams are the same at each end for a D44 and D36. The only difference is the length. The T5 adapter should work on either CBeam.
The dude dropped it off at my house cause he was in the area for other reasons. It's super clean, shifts nice, and the input shaft feels good. Also, lo and behold, the shifter appears to be a Hurst already. There's no **** on it, but the base plate is gold and the boot is round instead of covering the whole base. Any other way to tell if it's a Hurst? If it is, I suppose I'll be modifying a Hurst stick and not calling McLeod after all.
Driveshaft is on the way from vette2vette (should be here Wednesday). Now all I need is the adapter. How's it comin', anyway? I'm gonna call ProStreet later this week and let 'em know I definitely want one.
The dude dropped it off at my house cause he was in the area for other reasons. It's super clean, shifts nice, and the input shaft feels good. Also, lo and behold, the shifter appears to be a Hurst already. There's no **** on it, but the base plate is gold and the boot is round instead of covering the whole base. Any other way to tell if it's a Hurst? If it is, I suppose I'll be modifying a Hurst stick and not calling McLeod after all.
Driveshaft is on the way from vette2vette (should be here Wednesday). Now all I need is the adapter. How's it comin', anyway? I'm gonna call ProStreet later this week and let 'em know I definitely want one.
Could be a B&M or a hurst.
Hurst looks like this:
I'm waiting on the modified cbeam adapter as well. Once it gets here i'll jump back on the vette. Im kinda hoping it gets here soon because I want to get the shifter sorted out.
Hurst might have a stick that works already. They have a few sticks that go 2" over. Just need to call them.
This stick should work I think. It's hurst # 538-8571
If your shifter has a removable stick with the 7/8" bolt spacing (3/8" bolts) you can probably use this stick. An fbody shifter will need
to be taken apart, and have the internal shaft bent in a press, or heated and bent. If you use a mustang shifter you will not have to
do this, but you will have to re-drill the front two holes.
If you find an S10 hurst shifter you won't have to modify the base at all.
Obviously the cheapest and easiest route, is to pick up a T5 mustang base in the junkyard since they have the same bolt spacing for the stick (they're hurst OEM), and just buy the stick.
Cool thread, I just bought an 86 with a 4+3, the OD is shot. I'm considering this swap since the WC T-5 is an order of magnitude cheaper than a Richmond. Is there any cutting of the tunnel required to make the T-5 fit? Nice work so far!
There's a little cutting and patching of the tunnel, but it's the same as making the Richmond or the TKO fit. Earlier in this thread there is a picture of the tunnel mods necessary. A little aluminum and self-tapping screws and you're in business.
Where's the swap stand at this point? Is the adapter done? Any new stuff to add?
Adapter has been redone. The cbeam mount has been moved 3/4" forward, and 1 1/13" inward. It will require some slight grinding to the cbeam - but its better to keep the OEM like alignment.
It was reshipped to me, when it shows up I'll put it back together and take some more pix, and finish the writeup.