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ya i already have the d44 rear because mine was a 4+3 right? i also have talked to tom of prostreet and plan on buying the cbeam adapter in the next few days. ill just have to get my driveshaft cut down a inch or so right. thanks
Wrong. The 84 came with a D36 whether auto or manual. The D44 driveshaft and c-beam are an inch shorter.
Wrong. The 84 came with a D36 whether auto or manual. The D44 driveshaft and c-beam are an inch shorter.
This swap is very cost effective if you have an '84 manual car, or an automatic car and want a stick. For folks with D44's the cost of shortening the driveshaft might be prohibitive. I had a budget I went with for swapping my 700R4 to a manual transmission. Budget was about $1200 total, for everything I needed. If I had to spend another $250 shortening a driveshaft, it would lend more to the case of just going with a ZF trans. If someone is willing to shorten a driveshaft for less than $100, than it's a different story. Everyone I called around here wanted $250+ because it's aluminum. Luckily my rear is D36.
Then again, even if I got sick of the T5 I'm not sure if I'd use the ZF's pull style clutch setup. I'd probably be on the phone with LD85 on how to make the hydraulic TOB work.
This swap is very cost effective if you have an '84 manual car, or an automatic car and want a stick. For folks with D44's the cost of shortening the driveshaft might be prohibitive. I had a budget I went with for swapping my 700R4 to a manual transmission. Budget was about $1200 total, for everything I needed. If I had to spend another $250 shortening a driveshaft, it would lend more to the case of just going with a ZF trans. If someone is willing to shorten a driveshaft for less than $100, than it's a different story. Everyone I called around here wanted $250+ because it's aluminum. Luckily my rear is D36.
Then again, even if I got sick of the T5 I'm not sure if I'd use the ZF's pull style clutch setup. I'd probably be on the phone with LD85 on how to make the hydraulic TOB work.
-- Joe
I did a Trans-plant on my 84 yanking out the 4+3 and installing a ZF. I used the stock c-beam and driveshaft. You don't need a shorter ds and cbeam unless you have the D44.
I did a Trans-plant on my 84 yanking out the 4+3 and installing a ZF. I used the stock c-beam and driveshaft. You don't need a shorter ds and cbeam unless you have the D44.
Not on a ZF swap, but the T5 is 1" longer so you need to use a D44 driveshaft with a D36, or if you have a D44 have it shortened by an inch.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
I did a Trans-plant on my 84 yanking out the 4+3 and installing a ZF. I used the stock c-beam and driveshaft. You don't need a shorter ds and cbeam unless you have the D44.
The front of the beam is in the same place whether you've got a D44 or a D36. (As evidenced by the 4+3 '84 and A4 '85 using the same D36 and beam, and by the 4+3 using with the D36 and D44 in 84 and 85.
What Joe's saying is, with the longer T5, you need to shorten the beam. Just happens that D36 cars can simply bolt-in the shorter D44 beam. D44 cars though don't have anything shorter to put in so they have to modify their beam.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; Nov 30, 2007 at 06:02 PM.
This is a great thread and since I have a 4+3, I am watching with great interest. Many thanks to the pioneers that are keep us posted on the results.
I have two questions:
First, if it is going to cost over $250 to get a driveshaft shortened, was there a way to get the standard length one in, before the C-Beam is bolted up? That might be a pain, but for $250 it might be manageable......
Second, with regards to the modification of the shifter, is this necessary in order to make it come up in the stock location? Would it be possible to just modify the console, or would that put the shifter too far over to the right? I am thinking it might be easier to make a plate to go over the top of the console and leave the shifter in the middle.
First, if it is going to cost over $250 to get a driveshaft shortened, was there a way to get the standard length one in, before the C-Beam is bolted up? That might be a pain, but for $250 it might be manageable......
Yes. Bolt the driveshaft in while the trans is dipping, jack it up slowly until the cbeam is lined up, then bolt the cbeam in. Joby did this on his D44 swap, and I tried it. (had the rev1 adapter in and out about 8 times!). Doable, yes. Would I have done it to save $250? You bet. But I was lucky enough to get a d44 driveshaft from vette2vette for under $75.
Originally Posted by skybolt31
Second, with regards to the modification of the shifter, is this necessary in order to make it come up in the stock location? Would it be possible to just modify the console, or would that put the shifter too far over to the right? I am thinking it might be easier to make a plate to go over the top of the console and leave the shifter in the middle.
thanks again
You bet, it will come up in the dead center, with a bias to the front. You still need to make the shifter straight, either by heating it up or cutting and rewelding it OR use a mustang shifter. If you use a mustang shifter it will come up in the dead center. This is how pro-street does their conversions, they actually make a plate that will go into the center console.
Personally, i'd rather have my shifter in the stock location. I understand the trade off as pointed out by CC.
I just noticed you are from Mass. I invite you to come visit my shop any time you'd like to take a look at things first hand.
Once the car is finished you can take it for a spin as well.
You bet, it will come up in the dead center, with a bias to the front. You still need to make the shifter straight, either by heating it up or cutting and rewelding it OR use a mustang shifter. If you use a mustang shifter it will come up in the dead center. This is how pro-street does their conversions, they actually make a plate that will go into the center console.
Personally, i'd rather have my shifter in the stock location. I understand the trade off as pointed out by CC.
I just noticed you are from Mass. I invite you to come visit my shop any time you'd like to take a look at things first hand.
Once the car is finished you can take it for a spin as well.
-- Joe
When it comes straight up, is it too far forward, I mean will you be hitting your knuckles on the radio *****? If that is the case and the shifter needs to be modified anyway, then it may be easier to use the stock location.
I would love to come and check out your shop, maybe on a nice day, you can pick me up at the airport.
When it comes straight up, is it too far forward, I mean will you be hitting your knuckles on the radio *****? If that is the case and the shifter needs to be modified anyway, then it may be easier to use the stock location.
I would love to come and check out your shop, maybe on a nice day, you can pick me up at the airport.
Sounds good to me. Nice looking plane btw. Maybe one day I'll afford one.
The shifter is tilted so the stick wouldn't come too close to the radio, but would still be far forward for us guys who sit way back.
I've been working on the plow truck lately but I took 20 minutes today to finish the shifter. The magic number ended up being 2" back, and 3" to the left, with a 20* angle. I'll take some pix this week.
The shifter base hits the cup holder bottoms BTW, which may not be acceptable fro some folks. A mustang shifter might give a little more clearance, but the cup holder (forward one) is going to need to be trimmed out of the shifter plate to make this work.
The shifter "rise" isn't really that noticeable.
It's almost done. I gotta button up a few things but overall the swap is doable. I'm gonna re-word some of the how-to with the disclaimers (i.e, things you'll have to live with).
The shifter base hits the cup holder bottoms BTW, which may not be acceptable fro some folks. A mustang shifter might give a little more clearance, but the cup holder (forward one) is going to need to be trimmed out of the shifter plate to make this work.
-- Joe
Since one of the cupholders needs to go anyway, if you had it to do over, would you still go with the stock location or leave the shifter in the middle?
Since one of the cupholders needs to go anyway, if you had it to do over, would you still go with the stock location or leave the shifter in the middle?
thanks for all your effort and sharing on this.
I don't know. Its kinda a long reach. If the shifter went into the stock T5 location, 5th gear is going to be within an inch or so of the right side of the radio.
I have another shifter concern, and thats the height of the stick. I feel like it's too tall, but don't have another vette to compare it to. Anyone got a pic of their interior for comparison?
Anyone got a pic of their interior for comparison?
Joe,
Not sure if this is close enough for you to get anything from, but the shifter is in neutral and the top of the shifter is about at the bottom of the radio opening. I'd be happy to get some closer shots or even take some measurements if you'd like. This is the stock 4+3 shifter.
Joe,
Not sure if this is close enough for you to get anything from, but the shifter is in neutral and the top of the shifter is about at the bottom of the radio opening. I'd be happy to get some closer shots or even take some measurements if you'd like. This is the stock 4+3 shifter.
Hi. Thanks for that picture. If you could measure how far from the console plate UP it is, that would be great. It seems too high on mine, but it could be just me..
Hi. Thanks for that picture. If you could measure how far from the console plate UP it is, that would be great. It seems too high on mine, but it could be just me..
Thank you!
-- Joe
I measured 5" up from the console to the top of the shifter when it is in reverse.
Joe,
My 4+3 always felt too high with the stock stick. I think it's mainly the seating position, the console is so high to start with. Is the McLeod shifter adjustable for height? Is it shorter than yours?
BTW, what other problems have you run into? You said you were posting some more "things to live with"