Question on nitrous activation time
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 6
From: Winchester Ontario
Question on nitrous activation time
I dont' want my nitrous activating on launch cuz that's when I'm looking for traction. If I purge my nitrous after burnout and then disarm it via the switch, can I just re-activate the switch after shifting into second gear or would that cause a problem?
I have it set up as follows.
1. Turn valve on bottle.
2. Activate arming switch.
3. Small micro switch by throttle body that only activates nitrous at WOT.
So, if I activate the nitrous , on WOT in first gear it would activate yielding more traction issues...whereas if I activate it in early second gear (which is where I'd want it hitting every gear after that) then traction wouldn't really be an issue with my drag radials.
I am aware that there are delays and such, but I was just wondering if the way I described above would work well too.
Anyone?
I have it set up as follows.
1. Turn valve on bottle.
2. Activate arming switch.
3. Small micro switch by throttle body that only activates nitrous at WOT.
So, if I activate the nitrous , on WOT in first gear it would activate yielding more traction issues...whereas if I activate it in early second gear (which is where I'd want it hitting every gear after that) then traction wouldn't really be an issue with my drag radials.
I am aware that there are delays and such, but I was just wondering if the way I described above would work well too.
Anyone?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
I usually wait a couple of seconds off the line before hitting the switch. I do this for added traction and to save the trans and rear from abuse. It sounds like you have a different setup than me though. I also have street tires and don't feel the need to use the nitrous during burnouts.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
You should have a low pressure fuel switch and also an rpm switch set for 3,000 and above otherwise you just may have the fun I did a couple of years ago when my #2 stock piston ended up in a cazillion pieces in my oil pan....that's why I now sport a 383 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 3
From: In a van down by the river! Florida
Get a window switch and rock on
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 3
From: Mount Vernon OH
Many Nitrous Options
Your idea will work but you may find some other options that could be better depending on what direction you want to take your car.
1. Do what you described and it will work fine.
2. Put in a WOT switch AND wire it to a time delay and it will work better.
3. Do away with a Wide Open Switch and use a shifter **** activation switch so that when you manually shift into 2nd gear you can push the button with your thumb...this also allows you to release the button without lifting your foot off the gas if you spin the tires or if your engine goes fat due to low bottle pressure (trust me this will happen at some point). There are dozens of other ways to do this.
4. Progressive controller will solve many issues because you can use it as a time based system that can start out very light and increase your nitrous over time.
Sam
1. Do what you described and it will work fine.
2. Put in a WOT switch AND wire it to a time delay and it will work better.
3. Do away with a Wide Open Switch and use a shifter **** activation switch so that when you manually shift into 2nd gear you can push the button with your thumb...this also allows you to release the button without lifting your foot off the gas if you spin the tires or if your engine goes fat due to low bottle pressure (trust me this will happen at some point). There are dozens of other ways to do this.
4. Progressive controller will solve many issues because you can use it as a time based system that can start out very light and increase your nitrous over time.
Sam
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
Zex just came out with a window switch with gear lock out abilities. A buddy of mine is running it on his Mustang with good results. If all you are looking for is a first gear lockout, that's what I would do.
To answer your question though; yes, you can activate the nitrous system as you describe. Burnout, purge, disarm, then arm as you shift into second.
To answer your question though; yes, you can activate the nitrous system as you describe. Burnout, purge, disarm, then arm as you shift into second.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Your idea will work but you may find some other options that could be better depending on what direction you want to take your car.
1. Do what you described and it will work fine.
2. Put in a WOT switch AND wire it to a time delay and it will work better.
3. Do away with a Wide Open Switch and use a shifter **** activation switch so that when you manually shift into 2nd gear you can push the button with your thumb...this also allows you to release the button without lifting your foot off the gas if you spin the tires or if your engine goes fat due to low bottle pressure (trust me this will happen at some point). There are dozens of other ways to do this.
4. Progressive controller will solve many issues because you can use it as a time based system that can start out very light and increase your nitrous over time.
Sam
1. Do what you described and it will work fine.
2. Put in a WOT switch AND wire it to a time delay and it will work better.
3. Do away with a Wide Open Switch and use a shifter **** activation switch so that when you manually shift into 2nd gear you can push the button with your thumb...this also allows you to release the button without lifting your foot off the gas if you spin the tires or if your engine goes fat due to low bottle pressure (trust me this will happen at some point). There are dozens of other ways to do this.
4. Progressive controller will solve many issues because you can use it as a time based system that can start out very light and increase your nitrous over time.
Sam
Better still, get a window switch.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
I ran my nitrous with the ricer button on the steering wheel. Worked very well. When I had traction at the track I could hit it in first gear, when I was on the street I could wait until second gear to hit it.
I took upart my horn button and put a switch in there. It looks pretty nice and only cost me about $10 with all the curly-Q cords that go from the steering wheel to the dash. Just make sure that you put it on your left hand horn button so you can do the shifting with your right. And keep the WOT switch so it disables while you are shifting.
If you want some pics of my setup shoot me an email.
I took upart my horn button and put a switch in there. It looks pretty nice and only cost me about $10 with all the curly-Q cords that go from the steering wheel to the dash. Just make sure that you put it on your left hand horn button so you can do the shifting with your right. And keep the WOT switch so it disables while you are shifting.
If you want some pics of my setup shoot me an email.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 3
From: Mount Vernon OH
Nitrous
RacerX,
I have no problem with your point and what you describe will certainly work. However, with your recommendation you lose some flexibility of the system especially on the street. I have no problem with 3,000 rpm or higher window switch...but where I see it as a limitation is when you blow the tires off in second gear when the nitrous engages and you have to lift the throttle in 2nd gear...because when you lift you lose the power of both the engine and the nitrous at once. With my setup if you blow the tires off in 2nd gear you can simply let go of the nitrous button and still be under full engine power until you recover and then lay on the spray again and salvage your run. If you are worried about a lean condition then a fuel pressure safety switch on the nitrous side might be your answer. When I get some time I will post some photos of some of my nitrous setups and my independent fuel systems that specially feed only the nitrous side and not the engine.
Sam
I have no problem with your point and what you describe will certainly work. However, with your recommendation you lose some flexibility of the system especially on the street. I have no problem with 3,000 rpm or higher window switch...but where I see it as a limitation is when you blow the tires off in second gear when the nitrous engages and you have to lift the throttle in 2nd gear...because when you lift you lose the power of both the engine and the nitrous at once. With my setup if you blow the tires off in 2nd gear you can simply let go of the nitrous button and still be under full engine power until you recover and then lay on the spray again and salvage your run. If you are worried about a lean condition then a fuel pressure safety switch on the nitrous side might be your answer. When I get some time I will post some photos of some of my nitrous setups and my independent fuel systems that specially feed only the nitrous side and not the engine.
Sam
I strongly disagree with this statement. Nitrous needs to be activated at wide open throttle and at no less than 3000 RPM to avoid potentially catastrophic engine damage. Keep the WOT switch, but add the shifter switch inline on that circuit, (making it impossible to activate unless you're at WOT).
Better still, get a window switch.
Better still, get a window switch.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Sam,
Go back and reread my post... If you keep the WOT switch and add a shifter switch INLINE (or to be correct, in series), then you still have manual control WITHOUT lifting off the throttle. The absolute worst thing a nitrous newb can do is activate the system under part throttle. Keeping a WOT switch simply makes it a bit "idiot proof", if there is such a thing with performance car.
My personal preference is still to use a window switch for automatic operation, and it's mandatory with a stickshift application (missed shifts, rev limiters, etc.), but to each their own. My personal setup uses a SPDT switch for manual/automatic operation, which is not for everybody, either. Then again, I've only been using nitrous for 26 years now, so what would I know?
Carry on!
Go back and reread my post... If you keep the WOT switch and add a shifter switch INLINE (or to be correct, in series), then you still have manual control WITHOUT lifting off the throttle. The absolute worst thing a nitrous newb can do is activate the system under part throttle. Keeping a WOT switch simply makes it a bit "idiot proof", if there is such a thing with performance car.
My personal preference is still to use a window switch for automatic operation, and it's mandatory with a stickshift application (missed shifts, rev limiters, etc.), but to each their own. My personal setup uses a SPDT switch for manual/automatic operation, which is not for everybody, either. Then again, I've only been using nitrous for 26 years now, so what would I know?
Carry on!
Last edited by RacerX70CC; May 2, 2007 at 12:27 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,469
Likes: 6
From: Winchester Ontario
Thanks all. I used to have the nitrous activation button on my T handle shifter but I have since switched that to line lock activation.
The window switch is someting I really should get, but I can guarantee you I'm over 3000 RPM in first and I dont' want it activating at all in first gear.
I'll look into this gear lockout deal. If I could just lock out activation in first gear that'd be great cuz I'd only be running spray if I was using my drag radials and I think they'd still hook pretty good in second.
I just wonder how the nitrous would know I was in second gear??
I have a ZF6.
****EDIT****
Copied and pasted from a site I found....
"The Lock-Out feature is designed for off-road drag racing use only. When the Lock-Out is “on” or “activated”, it will not allow the nitrous to activate until you have went all the way through first gear and reached the turn off rpm limit. The turn off rpm limit must be reached before shifting into second gear or the Nitro Control will not switch into active mode.
Simply put, do not "short-shift" into second gear or no nitrous will spray until you shift into third! This situation can be avoided by selecting a turn off rpm that is 100 to 200 rpm before your shift point."
The window switch is someting I really should get, but I can guarantee you I'm over 3000 RPM in first and I dont' want it activating at all in first gear.
I'll look into this gear lockout deal. If I could just lock out activation in first gear that'd be great cuz I'd only be running spray if I was using my drag radials and I think they'd still hook pretty good in second.
I just wonder how the nitrous would know I was in second gear??
I have a ZF6.
****EDIT****
Copied and pasted from a site I found....
"The Lock-Out feature is designed for off-road drag racing use only. When the Lock-Out is “on” or “activated”, it will not allow the nitrous to activate until you have went all the way through first gear and reached the turn off rpm limit. The turn off rpm limit must be reached before shifting into second gear or the Nitro Control will not switch into active mode.
Simply put, do not "short-shift" into second gear or no nitrous will spray until you shift into third! This situation can be avoided by selecting a turn off rpm that is 100 to 200 rpm before your shift point."
Last edited by black_89_vette; May 3, 2007 at 07:41 AM.