C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Replacing Header Gaskets...HELP!!

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Old May 4, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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Default Replacing Header Gaskets...HELP!!

I Have an exhaust leak that I am almost positive is coming from the header gaskets because the headers have less than 10k miles on them. Does anyone have any pointers or anything that could help me change the gaskets myself? I just went outside and tooled around and scratched my @$$ for about an hour. Any help would be appreciated.

BTW - One of the problems is the bolts are too close to the header tube. I cant get a socket around the bolts. Another problem is getting to the bolts at the rear of the motor. I dont have any clue how to attack this. Thanks in Advance!!

Matt
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Old May 4, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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you will have to use an open end wrench,a short one . I can tell you to buy earls master gaskets and you won't have any more leaks.
They are a little more expensive but it has inserts that can be replaced for cheap, check summit even if someone else does the job for you.
Its tight in their but you can do it.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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Thanks!! I will try that. I already bought some Fel-Pro's which was probably a no-no. I might just ditch 'em and buy the good ones!

Matt
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:16 AM
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I went with Percy's Hi-Performance Seal-for-Good gaskets with my SW headers. No leaks.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:59 AM
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I also used a crows foot on the back ones by #8
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Black94Coupe
I Have an exhaust leak that I am almost positive is coming from the header gaskets because the headers have less than 10k miles on them. Does anyone have any pointers or anything that could help me change the gaskets myself? I just went outside and tooled around and scratched my @$$ for about an hour. Any help would be appreciated.

BTW - One of the problems is the bolts are too close to the header tube. I cant get a socket around the bolts. Another problem is getting to the bolts at the rear of the motor. I dont have any clue how to attack this. Thanks in Advance!!

Matt
Not sure what kind of head the headers bolts you have are but I have a good collection of 7/16th and 3/8th wrenches that I've cut to length and ground on to make them fit. Even ground all the way around the head of a box end to make the wall thinner so they fit. Problem doing that is you break one every now and then but it works. You may need to do the same but for sure the 3/8th heads are much easier to get to.

Also....the #8 cylinder is easier to get to from underneath.

With only 10 miles I'd let the people whom installed them fix them. Sounds to me like some bolts were never tight but while your at it, put in some good 1" locking bolts and you never have to worry. Someone posted that all you need was 1" bolts and they didn't have to be locking, but considering what a pain in the *** fixing headers leaks is I'm not about to take the leap of faith.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by d48mclain
Not sure what kind of head the headers bolts you have are but I have a good collection of 7/16th and 3/8th wrenches that I've cut to length and ground on to make them fit. Even ground all the way around the head of a box end to make the wall thinner so they fit. Problem doing that is you break one every now and then but it works. You may need to do the same but for sure the 3/8th heads are much easier to get to.

Also....the #8 cylinder is easier to get to from underneath.

With only 10 miles I'd let the people whom installed them fix them. Sounds to me like some bolts were never tight but while your at it, put in some good 1" locking bolts and you never have to worry. Someone posted that all you need was 1" bolts and they didn't have to be locking, but considering what a pain in the *** fixing headers leaks is I'm not about to take the leap of faith.

Thanks for the info!! I will definately look into the 1" locking bolts. But basically what youre saying is that I can get the same size bolts but with a different size head so I can actually get the socket around them? Is that right? If so, can you provide a link where to buy them? I do think I will get the person that put them on the change them. Thanks in advance!!

Matt
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Old May 5, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by d48mclain
Someone posted that all you need was 1" bolts and they didn't have to be locking, but considering what a pain in the *** fixing headers leaks is I'm not about to take the leap of faith.
That was me. Here is the POST. A properly tightened fastener doesn't need a lock. You don't have locks on your head bolts, do you? As the link points out, the torque on the header bolt becomes less because the gaskets shrink. Locking the bolt from turning won't prevent that. Unless the bolt is re-tightened while the gasket is going through the shrinking process, and finally when it is through shrinking, the torque on the bolt will be compromised. Once properly tightened, under stable conditions the torque will remain sufficient to keep the gaskets from leaking. Those Fel Pro gaskets will do just fine.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 5, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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Thanks CFI!

Matt
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Old May 5, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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The dead soft aluminum gaskets worked really well for me.
The copper ones were ok.

For bolts, I used some that I found at kragen. They are some of those "dress-up" kit bolts made my spectre. The heads are smaller.
I did dimple the header tube in the tight spots also.
The #8 bolt was a total PITA.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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See if you can get some SS bolts with hex head & allen center. Then, once you crack em loose, the allen wrench will quickly extract them.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
See if you can get some SS bolts with hex head & allen center. Then, once you crack em loose, the allen wrench will quickly extract them.
Damn... Good thinking!! I dont know why I kept thinking that the only way to get them off was with a socket lol. I never even thought about the head of the darn thing. Thanks!!

Matt
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