I (similar to tons of vette folks) was having VATS issues, with car not starting all the time... So i bought the VATS Bypass Module from Ecklers (SOS). I went to the dealership to check for what code it was prior to purchasing the SOS, and found it to be a #9. My car is a 91.

I installed the module today, and to the best of my knowledge it is in the corret place. The wires weren't the same color as listed in the instructions, but that was mentioned as a possibility for various years, thus I wasn't to concerned. Anyways, my car will not start after installing the module. I'm trying to figure out if there's something I 'might' have missed or what. Really though, seems pretty straightforward, so im not sure, hhah... What i was thinking was a few of the below possibilities:

1) "Maybe", the spare key that I used when going to the dealership somehow gave him the wrong code? I'm no electrician or key smith, but is that possible, that the resistence could wear down or change on the key and give the wrong code? I haven't used that spare in a long time, so not sure if the key was working in the first place.

2) "Maybe", I was accidently shipped a bypass module for a different code? (Btw, I love Ecklers and not trying to bad mouth them what so ever, just trying to figure out what my current issue is)

3) OR maybe something else is the issue that I am totally unaware of? If you guys/gals have any insight/ideas, please share them with me.

Also a few things I should note: I was able to start my car before putting on the module, only once though. My VATS has got a lot worse recently is why i went ahead and bought the module. Typically it will start IF i have left it sitting for quite awhile, BUT if I start it, kill it, then try to restart it, it has been usually not cranking at all. Which is basically what happened today; right before putting the module in, i started it once, then second try (what i assumed to be that VATS issues) I got no response at all... Anyways, sorry for making this longer then if needed, just trying to include as much info as I think may be relevant. Right now, my first plan and only thing I know to do, is take both keys back to the dealership to check the codes on Monday.

THanks for reading, and let me know if you all have any suggestions/tips that I should doing now.

 

I doubt if you installed it wrong. The plugs won't work many places. All that thing does is tell your system that your key is in there all the time. There could be other problems. Yes, check your key resistance fist if thats not it you need to remove the bypass to troubleshoot other problems.

 

Did you put a meter or test light on the small wire of solenoid during your no crank situations. I would rule out a few things before you tear at her again.

 

It is best to find out why your car won't crank rather than make the assumption that it is VATS and bypass VATS. VATS will prevent the petty crooks from stealing your car because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. If you bypass VATS, your C4 is an easy target for theft. Other things prevent your engine from cranking besides VATS. Here is a procedure you should perform to find out where the trouble is.
I will assume you have cleaned your battery cable connections as this is one thing that will not permit cranking.
First, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at the base of the gear shift if automatic) and jump the wiring harness socket. Measure the voltage on the jumper to ground and hit crank position. If you have 12v and no cranking, then you have a starter problem. If you jump 12v to the socket jumper, the starter should crank proving the starter is ok. Next, remove the panel above the drivers feet and find the two wires from above and behind the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector. Unplug the connector, insert the key in the ignition and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. You should measure the same resistance as the key pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ignition lock which will have new contacts in it that make connection with the pellet. You can bypass VATS temporarily until you can schedule the ign lock replacement by connecting a fixed resistor across the 2 pin socket from the harness, the same value as your pellet. You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack. The resistor must be within 4% of the assigned value or VATS will not allow a crank and makes you wait 6 minutes for another crank trial.
The VATS module closes the start enable relay when you insert your key and attempt a crank. The start enable relay switches 12v from the ign sw to the clutch safety switch, and if the relay is defective, or the VATS module is defective, no 12v will be on the clutch safety sw in crank position.
If you use the search function, you can find a list of the pellet resistance values and the upper and lower resistance allowable for each pellet.

 

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'll try some of what you said jfb, sounds like a good idea for troubleshooting.

 

Did you cross reference the wiring to your FSM to ensure your wiring is correct. Did you check the fuze, maybe you did a short during installation? use a VOM to test the pellet resistance, search the forum there's several docs on that or go to: http://www.vatssucks.com/ alot of good info on VATS.
Installed mine, and no issues, don't know which one you got, but mine has the 3 position switch (Vats disabled, Vats active, total car disabled).
good luck

 

Check your orginal key and your spare. Make sure there the same... Here is a picture...

 

Well, my car is ghetto,

Today, I went and checked all sets of keys and all showed to be Code #9. So I presumed that was not the issue (that i was speaking of earlier).

Well, I still have the Bypass Module installed in the car right. So i went to go see if by some miracle it would start, tried it a few times, still got nothing...... I then shook the VATS wire/connection right below the steering column and tried to start it, and it did so! I drove it around some just because i wanted to badly from not doing so for a week or so. Came back home. Turned it off, then tried to restart it and got nothing. I then shook the same VATS wire and after a few tries, it starts again!?!? So what do you guys think this means? Do I have some kind of short or something? I’m still a young one, thus pretty much a noob to lots of this, so I will greatly appreciate any wise words you older/wiser ones may have to say

Thanks again, Dave

 

well, I tried to start my car again today with my 'ghetto wire handling tactic' (as explained in previous post), and could not get it to turn over at all this time...

Could this be the starter going bad, or do you guys think there is a short somewhere? Im at the point of nearly just saying F it, and wait till i get my next paycheck then pay someone to figure it out

 

Troubleshooting electrical problems without wiring diagrams and a multi-meter is damn near impossible, unless it's real obvious.

 

You could have a poor connection on the two wires from the steering column, otherwise, re-read my post eight posts up!
Cars don't fix themselves, YOU have to do it.

 

I was having occasional VATS trouble so I bought the bypass. It did not work. Double checked the key code and made sure I ordered the correct one. Ended up sending it back and the replacement has been working great for several years. Could be you have a bad one too.