Question about deleting AIR
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 138
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From: Eagle River Alaska
Question about deleting AIR
I have an 86 and starting to remove the air and plan on getting an eliminator kit but for now i will just temporarily just leave the actual pump and rip everything else off.
My questions are: the air divert and solenoid both have an electric harness on them, will unhooking them throw any codes? And question two, off of those solenoid/diverter valve boxes there is a bunch of vacuum hoses from what I can see one definetley runs to the fuel pressure regulator. Am i suppose to remove that too? I still want the fuel pressure regulator to function properly I just want to delete the air and all the air lines to the manifolds cat, and rip the little silencer can and tube out.
What advice can you give me on my concerns about any codes and that vacuum line to the regulator? Oh, and what thread size caps do I need to cap the manifold tubes off with?
My questions are: the air divert and solenoid both have an electric harness on them, will unhooking them throw any codes? And question two, off of those solenoid/diverter valve boxes there is a bunch of vacuum hoses from what I can see one definetley runs to the fuel pressure regulator. Am i suppose to remove that too? I still want the fuel pressure regulator to function properly I just want to delete the air and all the air lines to the manifolds cat, and rip the little silencer can and tube out.
What advice can you give me on my concerns about any codes and that vacuum line to the regulator? Oh, and what thread size caps do I need to cap the manifold tubes off with?
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24,460
Likes: 7
From: sw Ohio
no codes, just removed mine not too long ago. You can leave the AIR pipes on the exhaust alone as long as you dont take off the valve thats screwed onto the end of them. It will make a fluttering noise while driving but no exhaust comes out. As for the manifold tubes... uhh mine are just kinda hanging there, tucked away so they dont hit anything. I'm sure it'd be a good idea to cap them off though.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 24,460
Likes: 7
From: sw Ohio
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,374
Likes: 86
From: Corbin KY
The tubes are 1/2 inch pipe threads. You can go to the hardware store and fine 1/2 pipe thread caps. I did this last week, until i realized that the tubes are leaking at the manifold. If you just leave the valves on the tubes they will flutter and sound strange.
Every body is correct the electrical connector is not a input to the ECM sooo you will have no check egine light!
Every body is correct the electrical connector is not a input to the ECM sooo you will have no check egine light!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
a.i.r.
James,you live in california. the best thing you can do is gut the pump and leave eveything in place. If they finally get smog checks where you live, you will be in deep kimshe.
The fine for tampering in Calif. used to be $500 if they could prove you did it willingly. If you have to go to arbitration, they will give you 30 days to fix it if it has been tampered with. If it's a question of functional modification, you will get a board hearing.
The fine for tampering in Calif. used to be $500 if they could prove you did it willingly. If you have to go to arbitration, they will give you 30 days to fix it if it has been tampered with. If it's a question of functional modification, you will get a board hearing.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 138
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From: Eagle River Alaska
James,you live in california. the best thing you can do is gut the pump and leave eveything in place. If they finally get smog checks where you live, you will be in deep kimshe.
The fine for tampering in Calif. used to be $500 if they could prove you did it willingly. If you have to go to arbitration, they will give you 30 days to fix it if it has been tampered with. If it's a question of functional modification, you will get a board hearing.
The fine for tampering in Calif. used to be $500 if they could prove you did it willingly. If you have to go to arbitration, they will give you 30 days to fix it if it has been tampered with. If it's a question of functional modification, you will get a board hearing.
Thanks for the heads up coupeguy, but I'm not worried about that as I'm active duty military and just stationed in CA with FL reg.
Hell, not to cap on you CA guys out there but I can't wait to speed my C4 outa this state with all the crazy laws. Funny thing is you drive down the road and see these old VW hippie buses and bugs cough huge clouds of smoke in the air and I can't even drive behind them because I'm choking, and then you see the PETA and save the air bumper stickers on the hipocrits rides!! TOO MUCH political 
and taxes in this state for me. 
Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
From: Plano TX
Mine actually has a line coming off the fuel pressure regulator into a crazy Y fitting where one end of the Y goes into the plenum and the other end goes into a T fitting that is plugged into the diverter and the other end of the T goes up into the other A.I.R. component (another diverter?).
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,196
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From: Orlando FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Driver side:
Notice the exhaust manifold tubes capped off.
.JPG)
You CAN have them cut off and the holes spot welded closed to clean up the area even more. I just havn't done mine yet.
All the plugs I just tucked under other things and hid them out of the way. I get no codes. I also removed the entire hard line that goes to the main CAT as well.
Notice the exhaust manifold tubes capped off.
You CAN have them cut off and the holes spot welded closed to clean up the area even more. I just havn't done mine yet.
All the plugs I just tucked under other things and hid them out of the way. I get no codes. I also removed the entire hard line that goes to the main CAT as well.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 138
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From: Eagle River Alaska
...I removed the check valves and found a 3/4" brass pipe end and capped the tubes on passenger and drivers side, removed hard line going to main cat and capped the cat tube with a bolt, I cut the cross tube that runs over the water pump that went from passenger to drivers side pipes, removed silencer, diverter valves, and air switching valve. I still have the air pump mounted until I find a air eliminator pully for cheep or bite the bullet and buy one new.
The vacuum line that I was concerned about went from the air switching valve underneith the plenum and Y'd and went into the second fitting on the passenger side of the plenum and the other Y'd end off that went to the FPR. I removed this line and added a line from the second plenum fitting to the FPR. Should this be alright? What does the vac line do anyway that goes to the FPR, and how is everyone elses hooked up that deleted the AIR???
...Don't mind the grime I'm picking up some more engine degreaser tommorow!
The vacuum line that I was concerned about went from the air switching valve underneith the plenum and Y'd and went into the second fitting on the passenger side of the plenum and the other Y'd end off that went to the FPR. I removed this line and added a line from the second plenum fitting to the FPR. Should this be alright? What does the vac line do anyway that goes to the FPR, and how is everyone elses hooked up that deleted the AIR???
...Don't mind the grime I'm picking up some more engine degreaser tommorow!