Ok so here's the problem, I have a 1986 with the stock TPI. On fathers day I drove the car to church it ran fine. When I went too go home the car wouldent start I jumped the battery still nothing when I go to start it the starter solenoid does not even make a sound, all the lights come on all accessories work. When I turn the key too the on posistion I noticed the fuel pump does not actuate. I tested the ignition switch I have power in and power out I tested the park neutral switch same thing power in and power out. I jumped the starter and it cranked fine but would not start I dont think it was getting fuel because it wanted to start the first time I cranked it but cut out right away. I am starting too think that this problem may have something to do with the VATS so I tested the resistance in my key it had 3.68 ohms I then bought a resistor that was rated at 3.7 ohms spliced it with the orange wire located under the dash still no start so that rules out the key having a problem so im almost certain that it is the decoder that is causing the problem. I hope this info can help you to help me solve this problem.
Thanks, Ray

 

Ray I have a 88 that left me stranded 2 hours from home. Same symptoms you are experiencing. What I did was disconnect the battery for 5-10 minutes, connected the battery and waited 5-10 minutes; then it started. Vats locked it out for some reason. Hope this helps.

 

already tried that no luck any other sug.

 

Have you checked for a code 46 ??
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2046.pdf
Here is VATS info from my 86 manual.
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/Vats%20Electrical.pdf

 

The VATS is controlled by the ECM. Changing locks will only work if the key stays the same VATS number, of which there are 15 possibilities. Disabling your VATS would be an easier solution. Go to a locksmith, they will test your key and be able to sell you a module to disable VATS. Remove the underdash panel on the driver side. You will easily spot a two-wire grouping, I believe yellow and white, just to the right of the steering column. You will notice that it disconnects in the middle. Disconnect it, insert the module you got from the locksmith (into the wire going towards the firewall). Voila, VATS is now disabled. The module will cost you $25 - and your car will never not start because of VATS. It'll actually take longer to remove the underdash panel than it will to locate the wire and insert the module. I did this in my 1989 TTA, took five minutes.

 

will this override the entire VATS. Or is it possible that the decoder is bad and not the resistance in the key. Also I believe the wire is orange and flat with two white wires inside of it not positive if this is the same wire you are speaking of but it is the wire i was told to hook a resisitor into with the same resistance as the key.

 

Most likely it is VATS. Wait 6 minutes when it won't crank and try your spare ign key as its pellet contacts aren't worn like your everyday key. The ECM won't allow a crank for 6 minutes if it doesn't see the correct pellet resistance. Next, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at base of gearshift if automatic) and jump the socket. Measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank position. If you have 12v and no cranking, then you have battery connection problems (clean your battery connections) or a starter problem. You can jump 12v to the safety sw jumper and your starter should crank proving the starter is good. If no 12v, then pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector and unplug. Insert your key and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as your pellet. If not and/or over 13k ohms, you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a resistor the same value as your pellet across the 2 pin socket (goes to VATS module) until you can schedule a lock replacement. The resistor must be within about 4% of the assigned value of your pellet. You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.

 

I have tried all of this the starter cranks when i jump it and so does the fuel pump neither are the issue the problem is what is stopping them from working if its not the lock cylinder or the key does this mean I am looking at a decoder module?

 

Did you read the info I posted ??

 

You have VATS problems. VATS will not close the start enable relay (preventing cranking) nor allow injector pulsing (preventing the engine from starting and running) if VATS does not see the correct pellet resistance (within about 4% of the assigned value). You can fool VATS with a resistor across the 2 pin socket, but it must have a value that is within 4% of the correct value. Two wires from above the steering column come from the lock cylinder and plug into the 2 pin socket. You can find a list of the resistors used by VATS and the high and low limits by using the search function. Any ohmeter you use must be able to measure resistance very accurately to insure the resistor you are using as a bypass is within the 4% tolerance!!!! When I get home, I will IM you the VATS resistor chart.
The fuel pump comes on for only 2 seconds when you attempt to start the engine and there is an oil pressure switch that turns on the fuel pump when the oil pressure exceeds 4 psi which happens if the engine begins running.

 

check GIJoes web site-vats suck.com. My problem was the starter enable relay.I bypassed it,no more problem.

 

yes I have already tried this does this mean it is the decoder module?

 

What resistance did you measure across the 2 wires from above the steering column when you inserted the ign key? What value resistance do you measure across your ign key pellet? What value resistance did you measure on the resistor you placed across the 2 pin socket on the wiring harness? Did you use a digital ohmeter? or an analog ohmeter?
And....sure the VATS module could be defective, but I doubt it very very much.

 

I read 3.65 Ohms in the key and I read nothing in the plug under the dash I know the 3.65 Ohms is not listed as one of the values for the keys but I think I am setting my multimeter on the wrong setting I tried all the other settings also and could not come up with a value close too the ones specified ( 2M=.003, 200k=3.6, 20k=3.67, 2k=1., l<=1.227 the last one looks like an arrow pushing a button i tried to make the symbol so that you know what im talking about

 

I think it's the connection at the lock cylinder. Does anyone know what tools I will need to do this job?

 

http://members.shaw.ca/agent86/Steering%20Column.pdf