How hard to replace LT1 Coil?

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Jun 27, 2007 | 08:22 AM

#21

onedef92

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From: Fort Knox, KY

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkgh0st

Damn, I gotta take that apart too?

I just had plugs and wires done and they did that. It didn't have the tubing on the wire before and it was arching like crazy before the wire was replaced.

Mine was doing the same thing. I finally did my ignition wire swap Monday evening (walked into the dreaded LT1 driver's side hellhole) as my old plug and coil wires were arcing like crazy.

She runs like a raped ape now, though.

Jun 27, 2007 | 08:24 AM

#22

pcolt94

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Joined: Jan 2006

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From: Orlando FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carpenter

Listen to ZR-1 fred's advice please.

The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.

The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.

FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).

Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.

I agree with this but was only addressing a quick and simple way of checking the coil with out a full installation. I also think the ICM is a more likely candidate of a bad part. I have hung my coil a couple times now and had not had any problems.

Have not heard all the symptoms, but does have problems that could be the opti.

There is no specific need for an electrical ground since all terminals has a constant 12 volts on it during operation which feeds the ICM. I don’t see how hanging it for a while will cause a problem. The coil just floats in the mount anyway with no electrical ground connection. Check the book.

Jun 27, 2007 | 10:01 AM

#23

RacerX70CC

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From: Cape Coral FL

Quote:

Originally Posted by onedef92

Mine was doing the same thing. I finally did my ignition wire swap Monday evening (walked into the dreaded LT1 driver's side hellhole) as my old plug and coil wires were arcing like crazy.

She runs like a raped ape now, though.

Now that's funny!

I share your pain.... large hands+ASR (even swung out of the way)= lots of cursing. (and I do this professionally!)

At least it's not an F-body!

Jun 27, 2007 | 10:26 AM

#24

Darkgh0st

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Quote:

Originally Posted by onedef92

Oh, and for future reference. You'll come to know there's little "simple" about working on LT1 engines. Even with the clamshell hood, basic tune-up stuff like plugs and ignition wire swaps can be "challenging" at best.

Er, yeah, that's the word I'm looking for....

I had my shop do the plugs and wires. I told them that the book said it was a 5 hour job, they said "5 Hours??!! You gotta be kidding me"

9 Hours later they finished

(Only charged me 5)

Jun 27, 2007 | 10:31 AM

#25

Darkgh0st

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Quote:

Originally Posted by pcolt94

Have not heard all the symptoms, but does have problems that could be the opti.

I didnt want to get into all the symptoms. I've had several threads on it and Im still stumped. So I'm going back to basics. Right now Im concentrating on spark related issues. Then I will move on to Fuel, and then eventually I will light the car on fire.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1738113
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1729474
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1711949

Jun 27, 2007 | 10:54 AM

#26

onedef92

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From: Fort Knox, KY

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkgh0st

I had my shop do the plugs and wires. I told them that the book said it was a 5 hour job, they said "5 Hours??!! You gotta be kidding me"

9 Hours later they finished

(Only charged me 5)

The passenger side wires took me an hour and 15 minutes. The driver's side took me three and a half hours.

I had to remove the rubber intake coupling, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, alternator, idler arm pulley, and unbolt the PS pump to get to the Opti wire connections on that side.

Plus, I had to wait an hour for the engine to cool.

Definitely a man/machine bonding moment, but thanks to the fellas on this Forum for their outstanding tech support.

Even the Almighty Helm's FSM is silent on the particulars of this issue. I thought I'd stepped into the pages of a ghetto-assed Chilton's Manual.

Last edited by onedef92; Jun 27, 2007 at 11:09 AM.

Jun 27, 2007 | 10:58 AM

#27

Darkgh0st

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Quote:

Originally Posted by onedef92

The passenger side wires took me an hour and 15 minutes. The driver's side took me three and a half hours.

I had to remove the rubber intake coupling, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, idler arm pulley, and unbolt the PS pump to get to the Opti wire connections on that side.

Plus, I had to wait an hour for the engine to cool.