How hard to replace LT1 Coil?
#21
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She runs like a raped ape now, though.
#22
Le Mans Master
Listen to ZR-1 fred's advice please.
The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.
The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.
FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).
Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.
The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.
The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.
FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).
Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.
Have not heard all the symptoms, but does have problems that could be the opti.
There is no specific need for an electrical ground since all terminals has a constant 12 volts on it during operation which feeds the ICM. I don’t see how hanging it for a while will cause a problem. The coil just floats in the mount anyway with no electrical ground connection. Check the book.
#23
Melting Slicks
At least it's not an F-body!
#24
Melting Slicks
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9 Hours later they finished (Only charged me 5)
#25
Melting Slicks
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1738113
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1729474
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1711949
#26
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I had to remove the rubber intake coupling, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, alternator, idler arm pulley, and unbolt the PS pump to get to the Opti wire connections on that side.
Plus, I had to wait an hour for the engine to cool.
Definitely a man/machine bonding moment, but thanks to the fellas on this Forum for their outstanding tech support.
Even the Almighty Helm's FSM is silent on the particulars of this issue. I thought I'd stepped into the pages of a ghetto-assed Chilton's Manual.
Last edited by onedef92; 06-27-2007 at 11:09 AM.
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The passenger side wires took me an hour and 15 minutes. The driver's side took me three and a half hours.
I had to remove the rubber intake coupling, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, idler arm pulley, and unbolt the PS pump to get to the Opti wire connections on that side.
Plus, I had to wait an hour for the engine to cool.
Definitely a man/machine bonding moment, but thanks to the fellas on this Forum for their outstanding tech support.
Even the Almighty Helm's FSM is silent on the particulars of this issue. I thought I'd stepped into the pages of a ghetto-assed Chilton's Manual.
I had to remove the rubber intake coupling, serpentine belt, belt tensioner, idler arm pulley, and unbolt the PS pump to get to the Opti wire connections on that side.
Plus, I had to wait an hour for the engine to cool.
Definitely a man/machine bonding moment, but thanks to the fellas on this Forum for their outstanding tech support.
Even the Almighty Helm's FSM is silent on the particulars of this issue. I thought I'd stepped into the pages of a ghetto-assed Chilton's Manual.
#29
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter