How hard to replace LT1 Coil?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Once you get the PS reservoir outta' the way, it's a piece o' cake.
Be sure and wrap your coil wire in an 8" section of corrugated flexible tubing if yours is missing. You can buy it at auto parts stores.
It'll help minimize wire chaffing and help insulate the wire from the relentless underhood heat they're subjected to.
Be sure and wrap your coil wire in an 8" section of corrugated flexible tubing if yours is missing. You can buy it at auto parts stores.
It'll help minimize wire chaffing and help insulate the wire from the relentless underhood heat they're subjected to.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,474
Likes: 1
From: 1
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,474
Likes: 1
From: 1
Damn, I gotta take that apart too?
I just had plugs and wires done and they did that. It didn't have the tubing on the wire before and it was arching like crazy before the wire was replaced.
I just had plugs and wires done and they did that. It didn't have the tubing on the wire before and it was arching like crazy before the wire was replaced.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
Once you get the PS reservoir outta' the way, it's a piece o' cake.
Be sure and wrap your coil wire in an 8" section of corrugated flexible tubing if yours is missing. You can buy it at auto parts stores.
It'll help minimize wire chaffing and help insulate the wire from the relentless underhood heat they're subjected to.
Be sure and wrap your coil wire in an 8" section of corrugated flexible tubing if yours is missing. You can buy it at auto parts stores.
It'll help minimize wire chaffing and help insulate the wire from the relentless underhood heat they're subjected to.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 3
From: Encino CA
I replaced the stock coil on my 95 with an MSD coil and it definitely ran better after the swap. As I recall, you will need a deep socket (9/16" maybe?) to get at one of the bolts or studs that holds the coil bracket to the head. I really took my time replacing and it took about an hour--the next time will take about 20 minutes. Also, make sure you apply the heat grease (or whatever it is called) on the coil mounting bracket. I'm sure others here will have a better step-by-step procedure but I recall dealing with the power steering bracket was a pita.
Doug
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
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I replaced the stock coil on my 95 with an MSD coil and it definitely ran better after the swap. As I recall, you will need a deep socket (9/16" maybe?) to get at one of the bolts or studs that holds the coil bracket to the head. I really took my time replacing and it took about an hour--the next time will take about 20 minutes. Also, make sure you apply the heat grease (or whatever it is called) on the coil mounting bracket. I'm sure others here will have a better step-by-step procedure but I recall dealing with the power steering bracket was a pita.
Doug
Doug
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Orlando FL
But before you do this, you can electrically connect the coil with out removing the old coil. Just un-plug the connector and coil wire and connect to new coil. All wires will reach and just let it hang for a test. You can drive it like that and see if it really is the coil before you do a full installation.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
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This is the hardest part. The original bracket has to be reused. It is best to grind the heads of the rivets off to get the studs out. Then just use the new hardware and mount.
But before you do this, you can electrically connect the coil with out removing the old coil. Just un-plug the connector and coil wire and connect to new coil. All wires will reach and just let it hang for a test. You can drive it like that and see if it really is the coil before you do a full installation.
But before you do this, you can electrically connect the coil with out removing the old coil. Just un-plug the connector and coil wire and connect to new coil. All wires will reach and just let it hang for a test. You can drive it like that and see if it really is the coil before you do a full installation.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: 1
I talked to a gearhead at work and he said that it's really not a good idea to install the coil without grounding it. I guess I'm gonna haveta do a full install to see if that fixes my problem.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 269
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From: Vancouver B.C.
Listen to ZR-1 fred's advice please.
The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.
The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.
FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).
Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.
The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.
The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.
FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).
Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.
Last edited by Carpenter; Jun 26, 2007 at 10:00 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,474
Likes: 1
From: 1
Listen to ZR-1 fred's advice please.
The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.
The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.
FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).
Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.
The LT1 coil is not 'known' to fail in heat. The ICM (ignition control module) IS.
The ICM is 'likely' your (heat related) problem. Very common problem.
FYI>>>If the ICM ends up needing replacement, it's VERY important to utilize the HEAT GREASE (as a heat sink conduit).
Another tip I used was installing the coil/icm bracket AWAY from the cyl. head using 3 flat washers on each bolt. Makes sense, being that it creates an air gap between the head and coil/icm bracket. As we all know....electronics HATE heat.
I will replace that too. Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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So true. But, if your ICM goes ****-up, there's a very likely chance it'll take your coil with it. That's what happened to me.
Oh, and for future reference. You'll come to know there's little "simple" about working on LT1 engines. Even with the clamshell hood, basic tune-up stuff like plugs and ignition wire swaps can be "challenging" at best.
Er, yeah, that's the word I'm looking for....
Oh, and for future reference. You'll come to know there's little "simple" about working on LT1 engines. Even with the clamshell hood, basic tune-up stuff like plugs and ignition wire swaps can be "challenging" at best.
Er, yeah, that's the word I'm looking for....