MiniRam tune
no doubt you'll need gassed up especially in the lower fuel table. likely some in the upper ve table as well, though probably not as much as the factory tune runs a bit leaner up there......guesses only on my behalf.
who are you ordering the custom re-tune from?
congratulations by the way, prepare to off to the races with your much improved intake. the tune "highway star" comes to mind, classic deep purple
how rad is the cam - if you know the specs Alvin can give you a base tune to get you started and fine tune from there, he has some options with his tune purchase that can benefit you - consider getting an adapter from moates so you can tune without "burning"
no doubt you'll need gassed up especially in the lower fuel table. likely some in the upper ve table as well, though probably not as much as the factory tune runs a bit leaner up there......guesses only on my behalf.
who are you ordering the custom re-tune from?
how rad is the cam - if you know the specs Alvin can give you a base tune to get you started and fine tune from there, he has some options with his tune purchase that can benefit you - consider getting an adapter from moates so you can tune without "burning"
I think the egr is turned off in the chip I have. If not, I think I can trick it into seeing it as working. The cold start injector has not worked in 3 years. I found out yesterday, one terminal pushed back out of the connector last time. Just takes a little more cranking to start.
Good idea on the Moates adaptor. I have been considering the do it yourself approach. Have Tunerpro RT. I just dont know if I can put the neccessary time into it.

I just played back an old datalog. EGR duty cycle stayed at 0.0. That will not be a problem.
Last edited by JackDidley; Jun 27, 2007 at 09:02 AM.
i would ask alvin how much of a jump in fueling, and possibly some timing adjustments that would be required in a "base" re-tune.
by the way, i meant in my earlier post that your upper table would very likely need more extensive changes to the tune thats there now -- as well as the lower table.
at any rate, i would contact alvin and get another base tune mailed to you, meanwhile.......pop that baby in with the MR install and datalog from there.
but i know i haven't said a thing you already didn't know without a doubt.
Last edited by Red Tornado; Jun 27, 2007 at 12:07 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I always like to get ideas from others. Every bit of info helps. Every one has a different point of view and that helps too. The car will not leave the garage without a laptop hooked up. Not taking chances. I finally replaced the 4 broken pistons.(remember my thread last summer
) put in a nice set of flat tops, PM rods, ARP bolts. Cylinders were not even hurt, after 10k miles like that. Honed out real nice.





Depending on the cam specs, you may also experience a little reversion at idle, due to the very short runner length of the Mini Ram. If this happens, the lower MAF tables may also need to be adjusted to compensate.
Overall fueling should be fine, though.

Did you buy the mis-cast Mini Ram that TPiS had on eBay?
.
Mseven can you post or email a pic of your motor ?? Mine will never look that nice, but I'd like to see what you did with the injector wiring.

RWDSmoke, looks like you have already dealt with the problem, I am expecting. I appreciate it, as I will be there soon.
Last edited by JackDidley; Jun 27, 2007 at 10:50 PM.
Things to look for: I remember at the back of the block I changed the "hex" alluminum sender extension to a regular threaded tube ext. to gain room at the back of the intake (did not want to notch the intake) for clearance. (do a mock up before laying down the sealer/gaskets)
4 ports for vac was good (needed 5)but I did not want to "tee" into the brake with pcv, and I wanted map., and FPR (fpr comes off of cruise vac line) direct so I used a relocate for the MAP.
Linkage bracket may need some tweaks, I redrilled the holes (in bracket further back)so that the bracket could go further forward. This alotted for cruise, TV, to not be at their max. on the cable.
If you haven't already, you will need to do a TB delete to clear the water neck (used an earls 90 and a earl's barbed comnnecter to the hose (this allows hose to go through the AC bracket and allows easy disconnect at the 90, so that the 90 stays on the intake). I just blocked the original hose off the reservoir that goes to EGR.
As to FP, I think being a little rich is fine (safer place to start), if you take down the FP to low to comp., spray pattern can change as well as atomazation. (MO, personally would not go below 42ish and would start at 45). On the 87 I did (mini, 383, mild cam, etc) I started with a stock bin. I was seeing rich off idle(blm 118) through rpm staying in the 40-70ish load range. Leaned once entering the 90-112 load (lower rpm, flow), for the most part car felt bogged/sluggish until I made tweaks in the tune (now it's pretty much an animal). Sorry for long post, if I can help further and or you need additional pics./info, feel free to PM or email me.



my TB delete: airfoil ?? lol
Last edited by mseven; Jun 28, 2007 at 05:23 AM.
Mine will not stay that clean but I can try and make it as neat. I drive through a couple construction zones daily. My intake bas was nearly civered with sand.
Below is getting replaced.
Engine fired instantly and ran extremely well. No negatives at all from start up to shut down. Although I didn't go WOT because I was aware I needed a re-tune, I drove on the Interstate and was VERY pleased with the performance difference.
A few days later the car was hit by an 18-wheeler and I never got around to getting a re-burn.
Jake
Engine fired instantly and ran extremely well. No negatives at all from start up to shut down. Although I didn't go WOT because I was aware I needed a re-tune, I drove on the Interstate and was VERY pleased with the performance difference.
A few days later the car was hit by an 18-wheeler and I never got around to getting a re-burn.
Jake









