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I am getting ready to start filing the rings for my 383 LT4. I am running Mahle pistons and rings. I thought about going ahead and opening them up just a little more in case I want to run a 100 shot in the next year or 2. This is with a 4.029" bore.
Their recommendations
Street Strip Top ring - Bore X .0045" = .018" Second Ring - Bore X .0055" = .022"
Nitrous to 150 HP Top ring - Bore X .0060" = .024" Second Ring - Bore X .007" = .028"
It just seems like a big jump in size. Would I be sacrificing any power running the Nitrous gap for a while?
I am getting ready to start filing the rings for my 383 LT4. I am running Mahle pistons and rings. I thought about going ahead and opening them up just a little more in case I want to run a 100 shot in the next year or 2. This is with a 4.029" bore.
Their recommendations
Street Strip Top ring - Bore X .0045" = .018" Second Ring - Bore X .0055" = .022"
Nitrous to 150 HP Top ring - Bore X .0060" = .024" Second Ring - Bore X .007" = .028"
It just seems like a big jump in size. Would I be sacrificing any power running the Nitrous gap for a while?
The blowby and power loss from the slightly higher ring gap is absolutely minimal. You have no choice. You must go with the bigger gaps.It will be fine though.
The blowby and power loss from the slightly higher ring gap is absolutely minimal. You have no choice. You must go with the bigger gaps.It will be fine though.
The blowby and power loss from the slightly higher ring gap is absolutely minimal. You have no choice. You must go with the bigger gaps.It will be fine though.
What's MOST important is never run the risk of the ring ends butting.
i filed my rings for nitrous on my 94 trans am and i think it is one of the best running engines i have ever put together.. and i am probably never going to get the chance to spray it.
Go with the .024/ .028 gaps recommended. The increase in blowby would be nill; you would have difficulty measuring it. Do spend a little time carefully deburring them afterwards. Measure your ring ends with a micrometer to be sure you have removed the burrs. When ring ends are ground or filed it raises a burr along the trailing edge which will prevent the ring from sealing against the ring land in the piston. Of more significance is your choice of top ring, the quality of the pistons and thus the quality of the top ring lands and the straightness and roundness of your honed bores. It is absolutely imperitive for any performance small block buildup to use honing plates while finish honing the bores. Not using them would be a much greater source of blowby than just about anything else. The quality of your work and exactness of your measurements in machining and preparing components for the shortblock is the foundation of any engine build and will determine the success of the job.
Last edited by Greg Gore; Jul 1, 2007 at 04:14 PM.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Greg Gore
Go with the .024/ .028 gaps recommended. The increase in blowby would be nill; you would have difficulty measuring it. Do spend a little time carefully deburring them afterwards. Measure your ring ends with a micrometer to be sure you have removed the burrs. When ring ends are ground or filed it raises a burr along the trailing edge which will prevent the ring from sealing against the ring land in the piston. Of more significance is your choice of top ring, the quality of the pistons and thus the quality of the top ring lands and the straightness and roundness of your honed bores. It is absolutely imperitive for any performance small block buildup to use honing plates while finish honing the bores. Not using them would be a much greater source of blowby than just about anything else. The quality of your work and exactness of your measurements in machining and preparing components for the shortblock is the foundation of any engine build and will determine the success of the job.
I couldn't agree more. There's an old saying I remember from back in my oval racing days. It's called "The Five Ps." Prior Preparation Prevents Poor Performance.
Go with the .024/ .028 gaps recommended. The increase in blowby would be nill; you would have difficulty measuring it. Do spend a little time carefully deburring them afterwards. Measure your ring ends with a micrometer to be sure you have removed the burrs. When ring ends are ground or filed it raises a burr along the trailing edge which will prevent the ring from sealing against the ring land in the piston. Of more significance is your choice of top ring, the quality of the pistons and thus the quality of the top ring lands and the straightness and roundness of your honed bores. It is absolutely imperitive for any performance small block buildup to use honing plates while finish honing the bores. Not using them would be a much greater source of blowby than just about anything else. The quality of your work and exactness of your measurements in machining and preparing components for the shortblock is the foundation of any engine build and will determine the success of the job.
I am sanding the burrs off the rings with 400 grit sand paper, and rounding off the sharp edges to keep from scratching the bore. I do have a micrometer and will go back and check them though. I am pretty confident in the quality of the pistons and the rings, all MAHLE parts. The block was honed with the torque plate installed. I am taking my time and double checking everything.