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When I bought my '88 coupe, the brakes were in terrible shape from years of neglect from the previous owner. But with a few hours of research here on the forum, I'm almost there. Here's what I have done so far.
1. New calipers on the front
2. Turned front rotors
3. New brake hoses
4. New rotors and pads on the rear
5. Fully (and I mean fully) flushed and bled the entire system until clear.
6. Cleaned all ABS sensors with WD-40 and repaired a broken wire on the right front.
(no more ABS light coming on after takeoff...and I do hear the pump run a couple seconds after takeoff)
7. Replaced the beveled spindle washers on the rear and used anti-seize on the spline shafts.....NO MORE CLICKING
The only problem I have left is a continued sticking brake on the right front. I thought I had it resolved when I did the new calipers, hoses and turned the rotors...but NOT. The brakes feel great....but that front right is sticking again and heating up pretty good. I've researched everything I can here and I'm still just stumped.
Were the caliper pins replaced? Is it floating freely?
Did you check the booster pushrod adjustment?
It's normal for it to drag somewhat when spinning it by hand, but it should be enough to cause any significant heat when driving.
I didn't check the booster pushrod adjustment, but I can. If the rod is adjusted into the booster too far, wouldn't it cause both side to drag?
I bought "loaded" calipers that came with the pads, mounting brackets and pins already installed. To re-check the caliper, I just loosened the hose at the caliper....the caliper immediately released and the rotor turns free.
Last edited by FLA-C3; Jul 11, 2007 at 09:15 AM.
Reason: Update....
I definitely have a restriction on the right side somewhere. That side still won't "gravity" bleed. So, I loosened the hard line fittings at the brake hose and ABS pump...attached a rubber hose and funnel at the pump end of the line to get it higher. When I poured brake fluid in, it drained down to the caliper end just like the other side does. I guess I have a blockage in the ABS pump. Is there anything else I should check before replacing the pump? I guess the pump is not serviceable?
I definitely have a restriction on the right side somewhere. That side still won't "gravity" bleed. So, I loosened the hard line fittings at the brake hose and ABS pump...attached a rubber hose and funnel at the pump end of the line to get it higher. When I poured brake fluid in, it drained down to the caliper end just like the other side does. I guess I have a blockage in the ABS pump. Is there anything else I should check before replacing the pump? I guess the pump is not serviceable?
The brake lines through the ABS run through individual valves for the front brakes. The rear are paired. Before replacing the ABS unit, big $$ why not try to blow out the line. The obstruction isn't in the valve. If it was the ABS would probably fail the self test. If there is something in the line at the pump you might be able to blow it out the inlet. Its worth a try.
It sounds like the line is the issue but have you checked that the right side caliper bracket you got isn't bent. A bent bracket would cause pad drag. Good luck.
Thanks Vetracr, I found the problem.....the valve for the right front line in the ABS hydraulic unit is stuck in the closed position. I removed the assy from the car and was able to blow compressed air freely through all of the ports except the right front....blocked solid.
Anyone know a "reasonable" place to get the ABS pump? Napa wants over $700...
Thanks Vetracr, I found the problem.....the valve for the right front line in the ABS hydraulic unit is stuck in the closed position. I removed the assy from the car and was able to blow compressed air freely through all of the ports except the right front....blocked solid.
Anyone know a "reasonable" place to get the ABS pump? Napa wants over $700...
I'm glad to hear you found the problem. I'm surprised the ABS self check didn't set the ABS light after the self test. According to the manual the test cycles the valves and sets the ABS light if any of the valves malfunction. The GM manual must be wrong. Gee, what a surprise!!
Larry
P.S. Try E-bay for the ABS unit. I see them there often.
[QUOTE=Vetracr;1561042399]I'm surprised the ABS self check didn't set the ABS light after the self test. According to the manual the test cycles the valves and sets the ABS light if any of the valves malfunction.
Yeah Larry, I'm very surprised too. What use is the self check if it misses something like a sticking valve? LOL
Anyway, I snagged one off of Fleebay...thanks again.
Dewain