Anyone have any good links on DYI alignment?

 

*shudders*

Makes me think of alignment machines from back in the 70s

Why do it yourself? An Alignment should only be about ~$70 bux

 

How about DYI root canal?

 

OK, how did you do the bug?

 

Well I, for one, have never been too impressed with a "shop" alignment. Unless you're willing to pay alot more, most shops are only interested in adjusting toe, and as long as it's "in spec" it's good enough

Years ago, when I worked in a garage, I helped a co-worker modify his alignment on his tempest goat clone (Herb Adams specs). We spent hours moving the caster and camber back and forth, then yanking the shims for equal height washers (they don't fall out), then finally setting the toe.

Maybe this post needs to be on the Autocross board....
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...upID=SMARTTOOL

 

Hi,

I have posted this a few times. Please note that I don't use the mica anymore. Also remember that the car does not have to be level to set the toe, only for the camber/caster.

This is the way I do my alignments. (On MY 1992)

Please note I am not a mechanic but I have been doing my own alignments for over 10 years.

Stuff you need:

6' level
2 tape measures
camber/caster gauge
abs shingles or masonry shims
toe plates (cut the bottom of each plate to clear the bulge of the tire)
2 pieces of 4x4 wood cut to about 8" each and index w/1/2" increments.
laser pointer
4 12"x12" pieces of mica (optional-not required)

First take the 6' level and find a level place in your garage or driveway,
use the abs shingles or the masonry shims if you have to.

You will have to set the camber/caster first. On the front add or remove the shims on the upper control arm. The rear Loosen the Bolt closest to the rear on the strut rod bar and turn the bolt to adjust (its slotted). Please note that this bar should be tighten to 185ft pounds. (My car has an aftermarket bar with 2 ends with jam nuts)

After you think you have it set drive the around the block to settle the suspension and check with the camber/caster gauge. To check the caster turn the wheel out approx 15 degrees and set the gauge to zero. Then turn the wheel 15 degrees in and read the gauge. Most gauges have the sweep angle built in so it is easy to do.

Now for the toe. Do the rear first. Now I know there are many ways to do this but I think this way might be the easiest. Take the 12" mica and use them as turn tables (2 pieces with oil in the middle) roll the car over the mica. Take the toe plates and lay them on each tire. Simply measure the front and rear of each plate. Now take the 4x4 index wood and lay them in the middle of each front tire/wheel. As you adjust your toe (by loosening the jam nut on the tie rod) take the laser and put it against the toe plate and aim to the 4x4 wood and try to get each side close (as we will do this also for the front).

I have read here that other Forum Members simply aim at the ground

When you think you have it then do the same for the front and again aim the laser now to the back tire/wheel using the same 4x4s (try to get this close as you want the rear tires to track straight (thrust angle).

Drive the car again and check all measurements. This will take approx 2 hours or more for your 1st time! I have found that bouncing the car does not settle the springs/shocks. Maybe for a street car with soft springs/shocks-not a Vette or race car.

Hope this info is helpful take your time and you can do this yourself!

Dave Farmer also has a tech on this subject.

Steve

 

See! good stuff all around.

http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/align.pdf

 

Just copy and paste it in one of your folders. Then goto tinypic.com and paste the image (IMG)..... example.. (I changed the "I" to a "1" so it doesn't think it's a image... [1MG]http://i14.tinypic.com/632555w.gif[/1MG]

 

You suck.

 

Now children - play nice...

I do my own, using a Snap-on caster/camber gage (magnetic, although it won't actually reach through the Enki wheels I have on the car to work that way - I have to hold it up against the wheel center..), a tape measure and a string. Find a flat level spot ( I have access to a truck scale at work - nice big flat level pad..) to do the camber and caster. Use the tape measure for Toe and the String, on a couple of stands, to run down either side of the car looking at the sidewalls of the tires. Everything front to rear chould be in-line and square. The rear track width on the vette is wider than the front, which actually works out well to get a bit of toe In at both ends of the car when a string is parallel with the tire sidewalls at front and rear.

The string method is at Least as accurate as Any alignment machine, with the caveat that it's tough to do if the wheels are bent...

The best part of the string deal is that the car is done "square" - unlike many other alignment methods where the two ends of the car are done separately and independently - and aren't necessarily checked against one another to be sure that they are in "line".

As for settings.. it's up to you, how do you drive the car? I commute with mine, it gets about 20K miles per year - tire life is paramount, so no aggressive toe or camber settings for me - pretty much straight up on camber and very slightly toed in for straight line stability. I do have all the caster it'll do in there for the camber gain it gives me...

 

that's a nice dyi article.

 

Who does a quality 4-wheel alignment for $70? I think even the crappy shops charge ~$100+

 

Last time I did it by hand I designed my own alignment tool but haven't gotten around to making it yet. It's in the file right next to my aluminum camber brace.

 

What are the typical alignment specs for the C4s? I guess they would be in my FSM if I look, but more importantly, do the specs need to be changed when poly bushings are installed. I have known people to have issues with this on other cars.

 

The place in Santa Ana that aligned mine.

I just think that the way they do it these days with the read-out from the computer is way faster and can be adjusted to whatever you ask for if you have the right shop.

Yes, those places that drive your car way in the back while you are in some customer lounge sucks ***, but the place I went to........I'm there handing the guy tools. I could've told him to set adjust it to whatever I wanted and he would have.

This is the same shop that discovered the wheel bearing and bushings being worn out. He wants to replace it all for $120 + parts.....

technology marches on..........

 

I aims to please

 

Just what does DYI stand for anyway? Do Yourself In?

 

I don't recommend a DIY alignment for long term( more than 20 miles) use you'll burn up your tires. If you are in need of getting your wheels close enough so you can drive to an alignment shop to get it done by the pro's (with laser beams) then all you need is 2 people and a tape measure.

Use your wheel tread as your guide. Measure from a specific tread on one wheel to the other wheel (in front of the wheels)....now do the same thing but now measure behind the wheel. Adjust tie rods until wheels have equal amount of toe in & out...then crank them in about 1/8 inch for some toe in and your good to go!



I used to have a minor vibration problem with mine( between 60mph and up)....I used to go to the stealership(dealership) to get alignments done but the problem always remained. I have been going to Sears Automotive for alignments for last 5 years and the car has never had a problem with vibration since. Good luck with yours!

 

did you ever hear of drawing a chalk line on the tires as you roll them?

Used to, you'd lift the tires and then use chalk and spin the tire. So instead of using the treads as you describe they would use the chalk line.

The guy that showed me this in the 70s just laughed when I asked how accurate it was..I was about 13 so I guess He felt he could confide in me.

 

I figure I could ask again. Maybe I should start a new thread with this question about the poly bushings.