Originally Posted by zr1fred

Changing a FPR on a 20 year old car is not necessarily throwing parts at it. While not a maintainance part, it probably should be. But I agree, "easter egging" parts is expensive and not very wise.

Originally Posted by CFI-EFI

I'm glad it's fixed. Too bad you may have wasted money on fuel injectors. Any time you buy parts with your fingers crossed, you are throwing money at it. You can "maintenance justify" yourself into a complete new car...One Piece at a Time (with apologies to Johnny Cash).

RACE ON!!!

Originally Posted by senorv47

Just a question I'm not able to find an answer to. Does the fuel system on an 86 have a check vavle to maintain pressure between starts?

Originally Posted by coupeguy2001

I have an 86e with the very same problem.
I checked the fuel pressure with a gauge, and the fuel was bleeding off right away. I removed the fuel pump from the tank, and changed the pulsator, and the sock. I changed the sock on the pump, and when I grasped it, prior to changing it, it crumbled like paper.
the pulsator is from a 90, and it was better for a while.
I changed the quantity sender to a 90, and reassembled it with a new ground wire, new gasket.
I changed the FP regulator because I thought it was that, I put a holley one on it.
it might soon have been that because the red silicone rubber was delaminating from the glass cloth of the diaphragm.

I changed the fuel pump relay because the prime fuel was not present after the 2 second prime sequence. I had power at the relay terminals.
I changed the injectors last year, I also changed the manifold, heads, runners, and plenum. it was an engine upgrade.
It still bled down.
The gauge seemed to fluctuate a lot at idle, and dipped below 40 psi when goosing the throttle.

UPDATE:
Changing the fuel pump has helped immensely. The car runs better, and the fuel doesn't seem to drain back to the tank.

After the pump change, the needle is steady at idle, and when the throttle is moved rapidly, the fuel pressure does not go down, but increases 2-3 psi, then rises to 45, then settles down at 39 PSI.
The cat seems to run cooler.
There is no hot hot hot smell coming from under the car.
The car idles smoother, and when the throttle is closed rapidly, the engine does not die.
When starting it cold, the starter cranks a little longer than an instant start, but no where near the full minute it ws doing before.
The acceleration is better as well.

Originally Posted by AGENT 86

The pump comes straight through the TOP of the tank. Remove the fuel door and rubber boot and you will see the bolts holding the pump/gauge sender unit to the tank. Remove hoses and wiring and carefully pull the unit out.

Originally Posted by senorv47

Thanks, what about the fuel thats in the tank, I would hate to have a problem there? Shall I drain the tank?

Originally Posted by senorv47

I was looking in the FSM and it a heck of the procedure to pull the tank! Any other suggestions out there?

Originally Posted by CFI-EFI

Check a different section of your FSM. You wouldn't look up how to pull the engine to change the spark plugs.

Once again, I have to preach not to throw money or parts at it. It is possible the check valve is causing the fuel system to lose pressure when you shut the engine off. Do you still have that problem? I didn't notice where you said you did since you fixed the leak at the cold start injector.

A leaky check valve won't make the engine die. When the engine is running, the fuel is all flowing OUT of the tank. The check valve only prevents the fuel from returning, when the pump is off. All your previous posts have indicated good fuel pressure. Before you throw money at a possibly unneeded fuel pump, TEST it. Put a pressure gauge on it and go for a drive.

RACE ON!!!

Originally Posted by AGENT 86

My fuel pressure dropped like a rock, it was the pulse damper above fuel pump that caused it. A piece of fuel injection hose and 2 clamps and now my pressure holds for hours.