Hard brake pedal solution, finally!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 4
From: Cairns Australia
I've just read through the entire thread again - phew!
Da Mail Man - we both have 88's and my brakes used to be adequate, but not exceptional. The pads were new when I bought the vette, I don't know the brand.
I replaced the pads a few months ago with EBC Greenstuff, and now have 'Fred Flintstone' brakes.
I have 2 problems -
1. These pads only work when they're very hot, and I can't keep them up to temperature. The strange thing is that sometimes when they are cold they work a bit and occasionally it's as if they're very wet and two feet on the brake pedal still won't stop the car quickly, especially driving slowly round town. I'm going to replace the pads with what I had before, if I can find out what they were - I still have them.
2. I have an extremely intermittent problem where I have occasionally hit the brakes and the pedal has gone down a long way, like I've lost all my fluid, very scary, I've immediately pumped it once or twice and it's come back up. No signs of fluid loss. My vette is a daily driver and last occurence was before Christmas - v weird.
About three years ago I had the brake bias spring fitted. At the time the brakes were OK, but not as good as a 'normal' car and I thought the rears didn't seem to be doing much - not much dust there and on gravel the fronts lock up and the rears don't. The spring made no difference that I could tell.
From re reading this thread, and my own observations, I think that the composition of the pad makes a difference and that there is something stopping the rear brakes from working like they did out of the factory.
If so, I think it's either the calipers or the ABS.
Badabing9 has suggested, from his own experience, that
So I'm considering re-building the rear calipers and changing to better pads. If I'm not back to the level of braking I used to have, I will then disconnect the ABS and hope that will be the answer.
SunCR tells me he has never changed the fluid in his 1989, since it was new and his brakes are fine. Which suggests that it's letting air into the system, from fitting new parts, that starts the problem, and surely that points to air in the ABS?
Da Mail Man - we both have 88's and my brakes used to be adequate, but not exceptional. The pads were new when I bought the vette, I don't know the brand.
I replaced the pads a few months ago with EBC Greenstuff, and now have 'Fred Flintstone' brakes.
I have 2 problems -
1. These pads only work when they're very hot, and I can't keep them up to temperature. The strange thing is that sometimes when they are cold they work a bit and occasionally it's as if they're very wet and two feet on the brake pedal still won't stop the car quickly, especially driving slowly round town. I'm going to replace the pads with what I had before, if I can find out what they were - I still have them.
2. I have an extremely intermittent problem where I have occasionally hit the brakes and the pedal has gone down a long way, like I've lost all my fluid, very scary, I've immediately pumped it once or twice and it's come back up. No signs of fluid loss. My vette is a daily driver and last occurence was before Christmas - v weird.
About three years ago I had the brake bias spring fitted. At the time the brakes were OK, but not as good as a 'normal' car and I thought the rears didn't seem to be doing much - not much dust there and on gravel the fronts lock up and the rears don't. The spring made no difference that I could tell.
From re reading this thread, and my own observations, I think that the composition of the pad makes a difference and that there is something stopping the rear brakes from working like they did out of the factory.
If so, I think it's either the calipers or the ABS.
Badabing9 has suggested, from his own experience, that
I had determined that one of the brake calipers was sucking air on the "release" stroke and over time, it aquired air and the exact same symptoms that you are experiencing. the air stayed in the system until it found it's way to both the caliper as well as the m/c bot singularly and collectively. also had a later c-4 (pre 90) that had bad seals internal to the m/c ad altough in each instance no fluid was lost or missing at anytime, the problem was solved
SunCR tells me he has never changed the fluid in his 1989, since it was new and his brakes are fine. Which suggests that it's letting air into the system, from fitting new parts, that starts the problem, and surely that points to air in the ABS?
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
I've just read through the entire thread again - phew!
Da Mail Man - we both have 88's and my brakes used to be adequate, but not exceptional. The pads were new when I bought the vette, I don't know the brand.
I replaced the pads a few months ago with EBC Greenstuff, and now have 'Fred Flintstone' brakes.
I have 2 problems -
1. These pads only work when they're very hot, and I can't keep them up to temperature. The strange thing is that sometimes when they are cold they work a bit and occasionally it's as if they're very wet and two feet on the brake pedal still won't stop the car quickly, especially driving slowly round town. I'm going to replace the pads with what I had before, if I can find out what they were - I still have them.
2. I have an extremely intermittent problem where I have occasionally hit the brakes and the pedal has gone down a long way, like I've lost all my fluid, very scary, I've immediately pumped it once or twice and it's come back up. No signs of fluid loss. My vette is a daily driver and last occurence was before Christmas - v weird.
About three years ago I had the brake bias spring fitted. At the time the brakes were OK, but not as good as a 'normal' car and I thought the rears didn't seem to be doing much - not much dust there and on gravel the fronts lock up and the rears don't. The spring made no difference that I could tell.
From re reading this thread, and my own observations, I think that the composition of the pad makes a difference and that there is something stopping the rear brakes from working like they did out of the factory.
If so, I think it's either the calipers or the ABS.
Badabing9 has suggested, from his own experience, that
So I'm considering re-building the rear calipers and changing to better pads. If I'm not back to the level of braking I used to have, I will then disconnect the ABS and hope that will be the answer.
SunCR tells me he has never changed the fluid in his 1989, since it was new and his brakes are fine. Which suggests that it's letting air into the system, from fitting new parts, that starts the problem, and surely that points to air in the ABS?
Da Mail Man - we both have 88's and my brakes used to be adequate, but not exceptional. The pads were new when I bought the vette, I don't know the brand.
I replaced the pads a few months ago with EBC Greenstuff, and now have 'Fred Flintstone' brakes.
I have 2 problems -
1. These pads only work when they're very hot, and I can't keep them up to temperature. The strange thing is that sometimes when they are cold they work a bit and occasionally it's as if they're very wet and two feet on the brake pedal still won't stop the car quickly, especially driving slowly round town. I'm going to replace the pads with what I had before, if I can find out what they were - I still have them.
2. I have an extremely intermittent problem where I have occasionally hit the brakes and the pedal has gone down a long way, like I've lost all my fluid, very scary, I've immediately pumped it once or twice and it's come back up. No signs of fluid loss. My vette is a daily driver and last occurence was before Christmas - v weird.
About three years ago I had the brake bias spring fitted. At the time the brakes were OK, but not as good as a 'normal' car and I thought the rears didn't seem to be doing much - not much dust there and on gravel the fronts lock up and the rears don't. The spring made no difference that I could tell.
From re reading this thread, and my own observations, I think that the composition of the pad makes a difference and that there is something stopping the rear brakes from working like they did out of the factory.
If so, I think it's either the calipers or the ABS.
Badabing9 has suggested, from his own experience, that
So I'm considering re-building the rear calipers and changing to better pads. If I'm not back to the level of braking I used to have, I will then disconnect the ABS and hope that will be the answer.
SunCR tells me he has never changed the fluid in his 1989, since it was new and his brakes are fine. Which suggests that it's letting air into the system, from fitting new parts, that starts the problem, and surely that points to air in the ABS?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Dragging Brakes
Has anyone had this type of problem with their brakes? I have a 1992 convertible, LT1, that is all stock except for a ProCharger Supercharger. When the car gets up to normal operating temperature, the brakes begin to drag. I notice it when I come to a stop. The brake pedal gets hard with very little travel, but the car still stops pretty good. As I continue driving, sometimes the dragging will stop but the pedal stays hard with little travel. When I touch the outer part of the wheels the back wheels are warmer than the front, but none are alarmingly hot.
I had a code 71 so I pulled the EBCM, made sure the connections were clean, put it back in and cleared the codes. Still have the problem but no codes are present. "sys" is flashing on the speedometer screen. Replacing the EBCM is a last resort since it's so expensive. Are there any other things to try??
I had a code 71 so I pulled the EBCM, made sure the connections were clean, put it back in and cleared the codes. Still have the problem but no codes are present. "sys" is flashing on the speedometer screen. Replacing the EBCM is a last resort since it's so expensive. Are there any other things to try??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,286
Likes: 6
From: Palm Beach
Exactly what I was thinking. How does clearing a code clear a problem?
No. Unlike the PCM/ECM and CCM codes, when the battery cable is disconnected it will not clear the codes in the EBTCM. The brake computer (behind drivers seat) stores its own codes and you have to use the on board diagnostics going in to module 9 and use sub module 9.7 to clear the codes. Or use a tech 1 or tech 2 can do it to.
I believe this information is good for 92-94, possibly 95, and not sure about 96 since it is OBDII.
I’m not arguing with success, but a code is an indication of a fault or problem. The code can always be cleared but if the problem is not fixed, the code will be reset. The code is used to lead you to a problem area so the trouble can be repaired. So I don’t understand how clearing a code can make a brake system or for that mater, anything work better as if it was repaired.
I would need a real good technical explanation, that would be believable to me. Like the valves in the pump were restricting fluid flow with out the pump running. Pulling the fuse or power to it should disable any solenoid action in the ABS pump.
I happen to know the guys at Corvette Masters and they are a knowledgeable group also that helped me out once and have spoke with on several occasions. They use a tech 2 which they probably used to clear the codes.
I sure would like to hear the rest of the story if there is one.
I believe this information is good for 92-94, possibly 95, and not sure about 96 since it is OBDII.
I’m not arguing with success, but a code is an indication of a fault or problem. The code can always be cleared but if the problem is not fixed, the code will be reset. The code is used to lead you to a problem area so the trouble can be repaired. So I don’t understand how clearing a code can make a brake system or for that mater, anything work better as if it was repaired.
I would need a real good technical explanation, that would be believable to me. Like the valves in the pump were restricting fluid flow with out the pump running. Pulling the fuse or power to it should disable any solenoid action in the ABS pump.
I happen to know the guys at Corvette Masters and they are a knowledgeable group also that helped me out once and have spoke with on several occasions. They use a tech 2 which they probably used to clear the codes.
I sure would like to hear the rest of the story if there is one.
5th Gear
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
1995 brakes
I'm new to this forum and vettes.I'm not new to chevy brakes.I've only owned chevys all my life and I'm 55.
I bought a 95 triple black in January with 30 K on it.I agree,the brakes suck.I've read most of this thread and am wondering where to start.
In the old days on my 65 conv. chevelle,when the brakes acted like this it was usually the inside of the rubber lines to the brakes coming from the body,that were collapsing on the inside.Change the lines and brakes again.Same thing on my old chevy work vans and my brothers chevelle.
Yet,I've not read anything in this thread about anybody changing the rubber lines.Are they so good now that this is not an issue?
I'm considering starting there just because of the age.Am I wasting my time and money?
I bought a 95 triple black in January with 30 K on it.I agree,the brakes suck.I've read most of this thread and am wondering where to start.
In the old days on my 65 conv. chevelle,when the brakes acted like this it was usually the inside of the rubber lines to the brakes coming from the body,that were collapsing on the inside.Change the lines and brakes again.Same thing on my old chevy work vans and my brothers chevelle.
Yet,I've not read anything in this thread about anybody changing the rubber lines.Are they so good now that this is not an issue?
I'm considering starting there just because of the age.Am I wasting my time and money?
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
I'm new to this forum and vettes.I'm not new to chevy brakes.I've only owned chevys all my life and I'm 55.
I bought a 95 triple black in January with 30 K on it.I agree,the brakes suck.I've read most of this thread and am wondering where to start.
In the old days on my 65 conv. chevelle,when the brakes acted like this it was usually the inside of the rubber lines to the brakes coming from the body,that were collapsing on the inside.Change the lines and brakes again.Same thing on my old chevy work vans and my brothers chevelle.
Yet,I've not read anything in this thread about anybody changing the rubber lines.Are they so good now that this is not an issue?
I'm considering starting there just because of the age.Am I wasting my time and money?
I bought a 95 triple black in January with 30 K on it.I agree,the brakes suck.I've read most of this thread and am wondering where to start.
In the old days on my 65 conv. chevelle,when the brakes acted like this it was usually the inside of the rubber lines to the brakes coming from the body,that were collapsing on the inside.Change the lines and brakes again.Same thing on my old chevy work vans and my brothers chevelle.
Yet,I've not read anything in this thread about anybody changing the rubber lines.Are they so good now that this is not an issue?
I'm considering starting there just because of the age.Am I wasting my time and money?
Last edited by Da Mail Man; Jul 27, 2008 at 06:45 PM. Reason: spelling
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 4
From: Cairns Australia
In the past 5 years I've had adequate brakes and bad brakes - twice.
The biggest difference I have found is with the Pads. Twice I've had 'performance' pads and they were useless until red hot.
Thanks to Da Mail Man I now have adequate brakes again, I fitted Brembo pads to the front. My rears don't seem to do much, I have the brake bias spring but it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
I fitted the s/s flexible lines a few years ago, when my brakes were adequate, didn't notice the difference but obviously they're a better thing to have.
The biggest difference I have found is with the Pads. Twice I've had 'performance' pads and they were useless until red hot.
Thanks to Da Mail Man I now have adequate brakes again, I fitted Brembo pads to the front. My rears don't seem to do much, I have the brake bias spring but it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
I fitted the s/s flexible lines a few years ago, when my brakes were adequate, didn't notice the difference but obviously they're a better thing to have.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
In the past 5 years I've had adequate brakes and bad brakes - twice.
The biggest difference I have found is with the Pads. Twice I've had 'performance' pads and they were useless until red hot.
Thanks to Da Mail Man I now have adequate brakes again, I fitted Brembo pads to the front. My rears don't seem to do much, I have the brake bias spring but it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
I fitted the s/s flexible lines a few years ago, when my brakes were adequate, didn't notice the difference but obviously they're a better thing to have.
The biggest difference I have found is with the Pads. Twice I've had 'performance' pads and they were useless until red hot.
Thanks to Da Mail Man I now have adequate brakes again, I fitted Brembo pads to the front. My rears don't seem to do much, I have the brake bias spring but it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference.
I fitted the s/s flexible lines a few years ago, when my brakes were adequate, didn't notice the difference but obviously they're a better thing to have.
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5th Gear
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
My apoligy.
I said most of the thread,not all of it.I knew I should have read more of it before I posted.
I push on the brakes and they just don't respond like disc brakes on other vehicles.It's about half as bad as trying to stop a car with power brakes when the engine is off.They do improve a bit after they heat up,however not what I assume Chevy meant them to be.When they are cold,I can stand on them and they don't fully respond.
Where is the best place to get the s/s lines?Also,what is the best place to start looking for the problem?
I took out the ABS fuse and it made no difference.
I said most of the thread,not all of it.I knew I should have read more of it before I posted.
I push on the brakes and they just don't respond like disc brakes on other vehicles.It's about half as bad as trying to stop a car with power brakes when the engine is off.They do improve a bit after they heat up,however not what I assume Chevy meant them to be.When they are cold,I can stand on them and they don't fully respond.
Where is the best place to get the s/s lines?Also,what is the best place to start looking for the problem?
I took out the ABS fuse and it made no difference.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 4
From: Cairns Australia
brakes update
Thought I'd post an update to this amazing thread -
My vette is a I988 s/s brake lines, brake bias spring, all else standard.
In my last post, July 2008 I had just fitted Brembo pads to the front. The brakes were back to 'adequate' because the previous pads only worked when red hot (there were EBC Greenstuff)
The brakes were fine until recently when I replaced the rear EBC Greenstuff pads, which I'm sure were useless like the fronts were, with some standard Bendix pads. At the same time I fitted a new master cylinder with a new brake bias spring.
Once again my brakes are barely adequate, they feel 'greasy' and require more pedal pressure. The booster is working and there is no air in the system.
I plan to put the Gm spring back in the MC, because the bias spring seems to have removed braking power from the fronts.
I think I was mistaken to think that it would increase the rear brake power without lessening the fronts. It makes sense now, you can't get something for nothing, and I read in this thread today, on around page 11/12 that the bias spring is designed to rebalance the brakes when bigger rotors are fitted. So I've made a mistake.
I doubt the new rear pads have any influence on this, the EBC Greenstuff pads had to be red hot to work and the Bendix replacements are standard and used in many ordinary cars.
Like many vette owners, I don't think my rear brakes do much and when you see the tiny size of the pads, you wonder what the heck was GM thinking?
Anyone care to comment?
My vette is a I988 s/s brake lines, brake bias spring, all else standard.
In my last post, July 2008 I had just fitted Brembo pads to the front. The brakes were back to 'adequate' because the previous pads only worked when red hot (there were EBC Greenstuff)
The brakes were fine until recently when I replaced the rear EBC Greenstuff pads, which I'm sure were useless like the fronts were, with some standard Bendix pads. At the same time I fitted a new master cylinder with a new brake bias spring.
Once again my brakes are barely adequate, they feel 'greasy' and require more pedal pressure. The booster is working and there is no air in the system.
I plan to put the Gm spring back in the MC, because the bias spring seems to have removed braking power from the fronts.
I think I was mistaken to think that it would increase the rear brake power without lessening the fronts. It makes sense now, you can't get something for nothing, and I read in this thread today, on around page 11/12 that the bias spring is designed to rebalance the brakes when bigger rotors are fitted. So I've made a mistake.
I doubt the new rear pads have any influence on this, the EBC Greenstuff pads had to be red hot to work and the Bendix replacements are standard and used in many ordinary cars.
Like many vette owners, I don't think my rear brakes do much and when you see the tiny size of the pads, you wonder what the heck was GM thinking?
Anyone care to comment?
me too! ABS sucks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Just as a side note,
I recently replaced my wheels on my 86 with C5 thinspokes and some better tires.
I noticed, standing back looking at my new wheels, that the rear rotors were almost as large as the front ones in diameter. the difference only seems to be the size of the calipers and pads. I noticed how nice and polished the rear discs are, and how abused th front discs look. I just bought C5 calipers and rotors to increase the brakes to C5 stuff. I have a C5, and it stops perfect. It will throw you through the windshield.
I also am putting disc brakes on my 57 chevy truck, and I am using the serpentine belt system from a 86 corvette with the 86 power steering pump and a hydroboost.
I will eventually put the vette front end on it to compliment the L98 and 4+3 that is in it now. I am not using the 86 calipers and rotors now, i am using 65 chevy truck dual piston calipers with adapters and a proportioning valve and special rotors. I have the master cylinder and hydroboost from a 92 3/4 ton truck with line reducers to go from a 5/16" line to a 3/16 " line. Making the pedal/booster bracket now.
I recently replaced my wheels on my 86 with C5 thinspokes and some better tires.
I noticed, standing back looking at my new wheels, that the rear rotors were almost as large as the front ones in diameter. the difference only seems to be the size of the calipers and pads. I noticed how nice and polished the rear discs are, and how abused th front discs look. I just bought C5 calipers and rotors to increase the brakes to C5 stuff. I have a C5, and it stops perfect. It will throw you through the windshield.
I also am putting disc brakes on my 57 chevy truck, and I am using the serpentine belt system from a 86 corvette with the 86 power steering pump and a hydroboost.
I will eventually put the vette front end on it to compliment the L98 and 4+3 that is in it now. I am not using the 86 calipers and rotors now, i am using 65 chevy truck dual piston calipers with adapters and a proportioning valve and special rotors. I have the master cylinder and hydroboost from a 92 3/4 ton truck with line reducers to go from a 5/16" line to a 3/16 " line. Making the pedal/booster bracket now.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Apr 17, 2009 at 12:40 AM. Reason: info
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
Doing it this gives you automatically set's up inside/outside for each caliper.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
...humnnn......i just sent "rocket" a pm in answer to his.....
i have a tool (2) that i can screw into the bleeder screws that will register the brake pressure inside the calipers and lock them into a gauge reading. however, still haven't gotten around to it yet...ugh!...
....brakes 100% better then when i started....curious though what the pressures are in that, if the pressures are in the ball park, it would then be an issue of friction material i would believe.....
i have a tool (2) that i can screw into the bleeder screws that will register the brake pressure inside the calipers and lock them into a gauge reading. however, still haven't gotten around to it yet...ugh!...
....brakes 100% better then when i started....curious though what the pressures are in that, if the pressures are in the ball park, it would then be an issue of friction material i would believe.....
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: miami fl
well i just got through tearing apart the vehicle and doing the brakes
i dont believe this problem has anything to do with the brakes themselves
i think that the problem stems from the vacuum system
im thinking that there is a release of vacuum somewhere and the brake booster is not getting enough vacuum to pull the brakes hard enough
thus the need to maaaaash the hell out of the pedal to get it to stop
because i have had my car do this and i have had it NOT do it
so i have a condition where sometimes i can mash the brakes and it stops on a dime but sometimes ill mash em and be like hmmmm i hope i stop
so there
that is my hypothesis on what the real problem is
you guys are looking at the brake system
when its the vacuum system that is the problem
and as we all know chevy decided to make everything vacuum actuated in these cars
i dont believe this problem has anything to do with the brakes themselves
i think that the problem stems from the vacuum system
im thinking that there is a release of vacuum somewhere and the brake booster is not getting enough vacuum to pull the brakes hard enough
thus the need to maaaaash the hell out of the pedal to get it to stop
because i have had my car do this and i have had it NOT do it
so i have a condition where sometimes i can mash the brakes and it stops on a dime but sometimes ill mash em and be like hmmmm i hope i stop
so there
that is my hypothesis on what the real problem is
you guys are looking at the brake system
when its the vacuum system that is the problem
and as we all know chevy decided to make everything vacuum actuated in these cars
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 4
From: Cairns Australia
sleepyrz - I had those symptoms too - but for me it was the EBC Greenstuff disc pads not the vacuum.
When cold they felt like they had grease on them and I had to use two feet on the brake pedal for emergencies. This was usually in slow city traffic. Once I had heated them up they worked better and when they were really abused and red hot, they were excellent.
Thought I'd mention that in case your symptoms also relate to the temperature of your brake pads.
Otherwise perhaps you have an intermittent vacuum leak.
When cold they felt like they had grease on them and I had to use two feet on the brake pedal for emergencies. This was usually in slow city traffic. Once I had heated them up they worked better and when they were really abused and red hot, they were excellent.
Thought I'd mention that in case your symptoms also relate to the temperature of your brake pads.
Otherwise perhaps you have an intermittent vacuum leak.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
well i just got through tearing apart the vehicle and doing the brakes
i dont believe this problem has anything to do with the brakes themselves
i think that the problem stems from the vacuum system
im thinking that there is a release of vacuum somewhere and the brake booster is not getting enough vacuum to pull the brakes hard enough
thus the need to maaaaash the hell out of the pedal to get it to stop
because i have had my car do this and i have had it NOT do it
so i have a condition where sometimes i can mash the brakes and it stops on a dime but sometimes ill mash em and be like hmmmm i hope i stop
so there
that is my hypothesis on what the real problem is
you guys are looking at the brake system
when its the vacuum system that is the problem
and as we all know chevy decided to make everything vacuum actuated in these cars
i dont believe this problem has anything to do with the brakes themselves
i think that the problem stems from the vacuum system
im thinking that there is a release of vacuum somewhere and the brake booster is not getting enough vacuum to pull the brakes hard enough
thus the need to maaaaash the hell out of the pedal to get it to stop
because i have had my car do this and i have had it NOT do it
so i have a condition where sometimes i can mash the brakes and it stops on a dime but sometimes ill mash em and be like hmmmm i hope i stop
so there
that is my hypothesis on what the real problem is
you guys are looking at the brake system
when its the vacuum system that is the problem
and as we all know chevy decided to make everything vacuum actuated in these cars
well i just got through tearing apart the vehicle and doing the brakes
i dont believe this problem has anything to do with the brakes themselves
i think that the problem stems from the vacuum system
**not sure i agree. i have rigged a spare vac tank of sorts made from a large diameter pvc heavy-wall pipe and a vac fitting and made sure that there was enough vacuum for the booster although, that sort of a set up would be for large cammed rides having problems attaining sufficient vacuum from their engines....i have check all over for vac leaks of any sort and found none..the vac booster hold vac even for a few days of non-use and i doubt that gm or the feds would allow a vehicle to leave the plant with insufficient breaking...
im thinking that there is a release of vacuum somewhere and the brake booster is not getting enough vacuum to pull the brakes hard enough
**see above...i am sure you have already checked for soft break lines, vac hoses, etc as well as the check valve...i wonder if anyone (since it has been a while since i read this post) have tried the exact same pads gm released the car from the factory with.
thus the need to maaaaash the hell out of the pedal to get it to stop
because i have had my car do this and i have had it NOT do it
so i have a condition where sometimes i can mash the brakes and it stops on a dime but sometimes ill mash em and be like hmmmm i hope i stop
**could it be that maybe fluid is blowing past a seal in the calipers but NOT leaking fluid causing a loss of pressure?
so there that is my hypothesis on what the real problem is you guys are looking at the brake system when its the vacuum system that is the problem
**i don't fully agree!
and as we all know chevy decided to make everything vacuum actuated in these cars
[/I]