I mean when they sit up for long periods. A lot of us drive them all the time but I don't.
I also wonder what is does during the self ck. I don't feel my pedal pulsate or hear it go thought the self ck.*shrug*

 

^^Your gunk explanation makes as much sense as anything.

 

Mr. Hammons, I am now convinced that you have a reading impediment. Your focus on the axe you want to grind is leading you astray. Go back and reread what I wrote. If you wish to dispute that pads work better with heat then lets have that discussion.

 

^^Well, enlighten us......it sounds (it's in writing) that you were saying that the Pads were the trouble.....

Which is it? The Pads that cause all these brake issues or could it possibly be the ABS unit malfunctioning.

If the ABS module has memory to store codes, could it not have memory that makes it remember other things??? And if it is a "learning" unit......and a few panic stops or fuse removal makes it readjust.......why then would glaze on the pads or temperature of the pads have anything to do with the fix?

It just doesn't add up....

 

anciano posted "after a few hard hits it gets much more responsive and the car stops faster" this doesn't sound like any ABS issue at all. It's normal for the brakes to work better with some heat in them. Some repeated stops will clear the brake surfaces, re-bed the pads, and heat the tires, all of which can help stopping distance. If the ABS unit malfunctioned you could still stop with tire lock up force.

 

Anciano clearly stated that he go the ABS to activate....he said nothing about running up to high speeds and doing panic stops to heat the brake calipers/pads....but never mind that....

 

my 95 has great breaks

 

If the ABS is hitting, heat is being generated LOL but never mind that...

 

After reading this whole tread and picking up a 86 thats in storage until spring
I will tak the brakes off mu 73 and used them on my 86
Ha HA
Xmas day 2010

 

If the Rotor is turning, heat is being generated, but never mind that.

Just for fun, let's say going down a steep grade but not activating the ABS system was the answer......

Going down a steep grade and riding the brakes would accomplish what you are suggesting is the cure........but you don't hear anyone suggesting that heating the brakes is the solution....

...but never mind that...

 

So your point is that heat doesn't make the brakes more effective? I don't understand what you're saying otherwise. You need to read about basic braking knowledge.

Your other point is that an ABS malfunction will reduce braking pressure. No amount of ABS codes will make your brake pressure less. Take a moment and think about that. If the system worked that way it would not be safe and it is not made that way.

I don't understand what your trying to say and your reading comprehension is extremely low. I'm going to sign out of this one.

 

Oh I dunno...350 replies in a 4 year old thread that all come to the same conclusion that is more in line with my solution that are with yours.....

You've failed to explain or document how glazed brake pads lead to a hard pedal.....Before you ask me to explain anything further, I'll predicate that with "read the thread".......350 replies of documentation coupled with many folks getting results from the process described within.

Thanks Aardwolf.

Spreading misinformation and refusing to acknowledge that which other reports is exactly what is wrong with internet forums......

Be my guest, continue to tell everyone you come across that the hard break pedal is only solved by replacing parts......perfect

Hey horse, here is water.....do with it what you will.

 

I need to word this correctly...let me do my best in writing...in person verbally it would be a no brainer..

Ok, there is this Electro/mechanical module that was designed in the late 70s or early 80s.....(when the best microprocessor was a 8088....not even a 286 yet). This Module is designed to push back against your foot in order to allow the wheels to start rolling again.

So under certain braking conditions, a device that was designed 30 years ago and has been in service for ~20 years that is designed to make it hard to depress the pedal......inhale.......the fact that the module could be malfunctioning and doing what it was designed to do (make it hard to depress the pedal and skid the tires) but rather than only making it hard under certain circumstances.....it is making it hard to depress the brake all the time.....

......This concept is to hard for some to understand, it amazes me, yet, at the same time explains so much about Humans......

 

1992 coupe with bad brakes fixed

all original car with 4000miles put on in last 10 years. 10 year old rotors and pads and fluid. purchased car last year and it had very bad brakes, felt like oil on pads and could not stop the car. pedal was hard and not responsive, if pressed hard enough and fast enough the pedal would bottom out and the car would keep coasting.
ABS will not engage on dry pavement with panic stops

I had a 95 GM cutlass that had a bad brake booster and the pedal and stopping power felt the same as my new vette with bad brakes so i thought that was the issue untill i read this thread.

my computer has no codes on any modual, 1,4 or 9 (H27 on module 4 but that is 1-4 shift)

first i did panic stops in the rain and the abs would barely activate, after 5-10 times the abs would cycle very easily. i assume the heat generated from panic stops made the abs activate easier. i let the rotors cool down and again back to horrible brakes.

after some more googling i unplugged the abs unit (no fuse under or beside battery in my 92, must be 93+) THE CAR STOPS LIKE IT SHOULD NOW. the pedal is much more responsive and the car stops like any other car with 4 wheel disc.

Keep in mind i have 10 year old oem pads rotors and fluid

next step is to take car to GM and have them cycle my abs unit valves.

 

with my abs unit unplugged my pedal will not bottom out. with the unit plugged in the pedal bottoms out because of the return line to the master cylinder, the abs unit is stuck in activate abs and the extra fluid when pedal is press goes to master cylinder.

 

Ever since I got My 1990 almost a year now the brakes have been spongy . The first time You hit them they almost go to the floor and as you pump them they get better . Just need bleeding I thought , no that didn't work . I replaced the vacuum booster same thing . Then read on here about clearing codes and taking the Vette out on a wet road to excise the ABS and that seemed to work . The brakes got better but didn't last .
So when I saw this latest entry on the problem of disconnecting the power I had to try it . Now I pulled the ABS fuse # 16 on My 1990 and the results were great . The brake pedal was hard and high on the first try and got better and stayed high and hard . So after enjoying good brakes and seeing the " Service ABS Soon " warning I put the fuse back . What to My surprise but the brakes were high and hard still . Now this all took place in one day so I may have a one day wonder , not sure as of now .
So I just thought I would add more fuel to the on going fire !!!

 

94 auto. A little while after doing the "C5 Brake-Upgrade", my brakes were amazing. Have been for a couple of years now, but over the winter, I installed an LT4 Hotcam.
After being down for a couple of months, I get it running, and now my pedal is hard as a rock.

I started reading this thread a little at a time. Now I finally finished it and I'm going to attempt the "Code Clearing" and "ABS Stimulation" techniques described above. (It only took 4 years and 350+ posts to start seeing affirmative answers that seem to be the cure for more than one person. (Hopefully, I will be on that list, too.)

Tomorrow, (Saturday), I'll give it a good thrashing and relay the results back here.

Why isn't this thread a sticky???

 

Pedal is still hard.

I cleared the code in system 9, 9.7 (H65). ABS unit clicked and made some noises.
Took the car out to a gravel parking lot and worked the ABS system about 20 or more times. ABS still made the pedal vibrate, but it never changed the pedal feel.

 

With the hot cam you might have lower vacuum. Vacuum is what makes the brake booster work and if it is low that could be you problem.

But before you assume that (because you should have some assisted brakes) check the "check valve on the booster and also make a measurement of what the vacuum is. You can pull off the booster hose with engine running and put your thumb on the hose and see if it wants to suck your thumb in. Also check for a collapsed hose.

A normal stock LT1 will have about 18"- 20" of vacuum. I think you might have less, but how much less?

 

You might want to try it on a dry pavement surface where more pedal pressure is needed. Can't hurt...