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I have an '89 that has been modified for light track use; has an LT-1 motor with a Holly Commander for the EFI.
The car started prior to my tearing out the interior and now it won't start. I basically hooked everything back up; seats, door panels, center console and everything on the ACC, electric windows & seats move. The instrument panel lights up but the car won't turn over...
Is this the VATS going bad or did I disconnect something I shouldn't have? How does one disable the VATS?
Which fuse controls the start solenoid?
Lastly, how can I directly wire a push button start switch and get rid of all the extra electrical stuff leaving only the instruments, anti-skid, and brake lights?
I believe the vats is the resistor in your key on this year. Measure the resistance on the chip in the key and install a resistor on the pair of small white wires inside the orange sleeve that matches. Make sure your connected on the car side and the key side is disconnected. Thst's the way we did it for remote starts. We used a relay for the remote starts but this does the same thing for good.
Also, with the stock ECM removed isn't the VATS already overridden?
Where would I directly hook-up the remote start switcg in-place of the steering column ign switch?
Thanks!
We always did our connections at the column. It has the Battery, ign and start wire in it.
Directed Electronics may have the wiring diagrams for it. I can't seem to find my DEI sheets. Also check with Circuit City or Best Buy, they would be able print out a copy of the wire colors you need.
As for the VATS I guess your right because I believe it runs trough the ECM. The white wires were in an orange cover coming from the key switch. Normaly they had a small black plug along the way to be able to remove the column.
Also, with the stock ECM removed isn't the VATS already overridden?
Where would I directly hook-up the remote start switcg in-place of the steering column ign switch?
Thanks!
There is a starter enable relay behind the panel above the radio that cuts out the starter. You can bypas the relay by cutting the wires on oposite ends of the plug and splicing them togeter. One wire is green the other is yellow hook them together and give it a crank with the key.
engle1147, I tried the bypassing the starter enable relay and I get the same results...No Start! Everything else works fine, but the starter won't even click.
The little battery symbol is illuminted on the fault panel...I charged the Optima battery for over an hour and it still won't turn over...
Have you checked if the solenoid is receiving power with the key in crank position ??
Mine did that intermitantly and when I dropped the starter and pulled the boot off the solenoid wire there was no nut on the terminal!!!
Dans right to start with the obvious.
engle1147, I tried the bypassing the starter enable relay and I get the same results...No Start! Everything else works fine, but the starter won't even click.
The little battery symbol is illuminted on the fault panel...I charged the Optima battery for over an hour and it still won't turn over...
Anyone else know what may be causing this?
Check the alternator connections or/and get it tested at the autoparts store to ensure proper operation.
One time, I had an alternator fail while driving the car on the interstate at night - the idiot light for the battery came on when the car was only running on the battery......I'm not sure what the battery had left for voltage when the light came on but the head lights got dim and so did the gage display pannel.....I turned off the head lights and drove the car in the dark of night, until it didn't have enough juice to fire the coil ~9 volts, until I made it to the next exit. I replaced the alternator and car was back to normal.