I would like to re-wire my ignition switch so I just have a push button starter switch like on a Viper. I would also like to wire a toggle switch in for the ACC. Can someone tell me the correct two wires on the steering column that I need to use for each of these switches?


Thanks!

(Car is an '88 with aftermarket ECU; (Holley Commander 950), so I believe all the VATS stuff is disconnected/overridden)

 

Starter wire is yellow. You will need to jump the Theft Deterrent Relay is you haven't already.

I think the ACC is brown.

 

I've done this on my '88 harness as well as on my '91 harness. There are three wires you will need to switch - Ignition1, Ignition3 and ACC. Then there is a starter wire.

If you are interested in only a push button start while retaining the ignition key for all other functions run a 14 gauge wire from the battery distribution block behind the battery to the location of your push start switch then cut the yellow 14 gauge wire to the blue connector at the ignition switch at the base of the steering column and run it to your push button switch.

If you are looking to eliminate the entire ignition switch: There is a blue and a black connector near the base of the steering column this is the electrical part of the ignition switch. Leading to these blue and black connectors are 6 large gauge wires - an orange, and red to the black connector and a brown, yellow, red and pink to the blue connector.


Decide where you want to place your switches - three toggle switches and a good high quality momentary switch for the push button start witch. Disconnect the battery. Remove the connectors and cut the large gauge wires. Use the same gauge and color wire (to make things easier to diagnose, and keep things looking nice). Get a nice junction post block from a auto parts or marine store. Run the two red wires to the junction block using ring connectors. From the junction block using the same red wire run four wires to wherever you want to put your three toggle and push start switch.

From the orange, pink and brown wires at the ignition switch run similar color and gauge wire all the way to the toggle switches. Connect each to one side of the toggle switch (each switch should be a minimum of 25 amps, 50amp is better) and run three of the four red wires to the other side of the switched.

Now run the remaining red wire to the momentary switch, and the yellow wire from the column to the other side of the momentary switch. Bosch makes some nice black momentary switches that can be used as the start button. If you want to use a nice factory start button I think you will need to run a relay, as I don't think the switch itself is made to handle current directly to the starter.

The three toggle switches are IGN 1, IGN 2 and IGN 3. IGN1 (pink wire) powers the distributor, gauges/turn signal, cruise, cluster, inj1 and 2 CCM, and air bag. IGN 2 Brown wire (accessory) powers wiper fuse, and a few other things. Orange (IGN 3) Powers A/C fuse, P/W fuse and other accessories.

If you are doing this you will probably want to remove the column lock plate in the column and cut the teeth off the plate then reinstall it. That way you can remove the ignition switch all together. I also installed a battery disconnect switch acts as my "ignition" switch but I rarely use this. I also have a hidden fuel pump kill switch, and a switch that controls the ground side of my VATS bypass unit so VATS functions as should if I flick the hidden switch.

That brings up another point - if your car has VATS you will need to bypass it as you will no longer be using the ignition switch.

My car has been set up with the above setup for a few years and everything works as it should. No problems at all.