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Changed the fuel filter for the first time. It was absolute HELL, mostly because the fuel lines created a siphon from the tank and would not stop flowing. I would like to give this piece of advice to anyone who might change their fuel filter:
DO NOT try to continue the job if this happens!
Set the car down, jack it up a different way, and try again over and over until the lines don't siphon!
Yes, I relieved fuel system pressure and tried taking the cap on and off, to no avail. It was definitely siphoning gallons and gallons of gas from the tank, as has happened to numerous members. I just don't think it's stressed enough here how important it is to not continue once you notice it's siphoning.
I put my health at risk by trying to change the filter with gas flowing out of the line at full flow. I had a catch can to capture the fuel as it fell out, and while I was fiddling with the flare nuts, some of the falling gasoline splashed out of the can and into my eyes. This forced me to take an hour-long-break while the can overflowed onto the ground, as I flushed out my eyes with water and called the poison control center for advice. After that I wore goggles and finally found something to cap off the fuel line.
I think the old one was the car's original fuel filter, because those flare nuts were practically welded in place. Some guys get lucky and their filter just spins right off, and they come in here and post that the job is easy, but that is not the case for everyone. One of the flare nuts got deformed a bit and the old fuel filter was completely misshapen by the time I got it off due to how much force was needed. Getting the new filter on was just as much of a pain because the flare nuts had to be just right to keep fuel from dripping out. My O-Rings were nowhere to be found but eventually I got the dripping to stop without them (does this mean it's sealed well enough?)
The whole time I was trying to tweak it to make it stop leaking, gasoline was soaking its way all down my arm and through my shoes into my feet. It burned like hell and I'm now covered in first degree burns. This was by far the most painful and traumatizing job I've done on the car, because I did it this way. So remember, the lesson is, do not try to swap the filter while the gas is siphoning, even if other people on here tell you that they did it successfully. You might not be able to do the swap nearly as quickly or easily as they did depending on the condition of your flare nuts and your accessibility, and in the meantime you will be getting a chemical burn. So put the car down, jack it up differently and try another angle.
Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; Aug 12, 2007 at 08:16 PM.
It can definitely be a dangerous task. Last time I did it I remember looking at my drop-light sitting a couple feet away from me as gas ran down my arm and soaked my shirt. As thoughts of winning a "Darwin Award" went through my mind (Headline reads: "Unidentifiable corpse found beneath burned out Corvette") I quickly capped off the line and kicked the drop light away.
Glad you are OK. I agree whole heartedly, replacing the FF on an LT1 or LT4 stinks. I changed the FF on on my '96 LT4 CE for thr first time this past June. Getting to the flare nut (16MM) behind the cat was hellish. My gas tank was full so when I removed the rear flare nut towards the tank, the SOB peed fuel throughout the change process. My arms were burning from the gas. And yes I relieved the pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine and I relieved the pressure at the fuel rail by pressing the scheder valve pin.
The C4 gas filter should be done on a lift.
Every other car I can do in my driveway, but it's just not worth it on the LT4.
Was the gas cap on?
+1, thats just a job I payed someone to do last time I went in, oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, install CAGS eliminator, install new chin spoiler.. cost.. $140.00
Next time,try going upstream to the next connection and then down stream to the next connection.Take the filter and lines out as a unit and r&r the filter,then reinstall.
Cap off the fuel lines. Purchase one foot of surgical tubing and cut it in half. Put a bolt in one end of the tubing and the other end over the fuel line.
That's a new one on me, too. When I changed mine, I unscrewed the gas cap to de-pressurize the fuel in the tank.
Second, I pulled the fuel pump fuse.
Next, I started the engine and let it run until it ran out of fuel.
For safety's sake, I then disconnected the battery to negate the possibility of introducing a spark under there via accidentally contacting the knock sensor heat shield, the starter solenoid wiring, etc... with a wrench.
By the time I loosened the fuel line fitting, only about 1/4 of a cup of gasoline came out. I was easily able to manage the rest with a shop towel.
You could have just capped off both fuel lines with rubber caps. Then just done one line at a time.
Originally Posted by elefkow
Cap off the fuel lines. Purchase one foot of surgical tubing and cut it in half. Put a bolt in one end of the tubing and the other end over the fuel line.
As I said, I did cap off the fuel lines. That doesn't help you during most of the procedure, when you're in the middle of trying to disconnect or reconnect them, and they're dripping.
What size flare wrenches are required for this operation?
5/8 for the flare nuts and 13/16 for the fuel filter seemed to be the sizes, but since the flare nuts tended to deform, my 5/8 wrench stopped fitting after a few tries.
5/8 for the flare nuts and 13/16 for the fuel filter seemed to be the sizes, but since the flare nuts tended to deform, my 5/8 wrench stopped fitting after a few tries.
You sure those aren't metrics? I am only asking because the Snap On truck is coming by today...