C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

C4 Engine repair

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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 03:36 PM
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Default C4 Engine repair

Hello,

I may have a serious problem with my '87 C4 engine. There's 200,000k miles on the original engine and so it could require anything from changing the timing gear to a valve job to a rebuild. Can anyone recommend a good and reasonably priced engine repair shop who specializes in Corvettes in the San Mateo County area, California?

I just need someone in my area to take look at the thing, see what's wrong and make a recommendation. It's been sitting in a local repair shop for three weeks and absolutely nothing's been done! I'm fed up and I have to get my car out of there today!
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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Reasonably priced,and good used in the same sentence is a tough one.Any decent shop should be able to check it out,it's just a SBC,if the problems internal.Out of curiosity,what are the symtoms?Maybe someone here could help.
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:26 PM
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Default C4 Engine Repair

Originally Posted by GIMMESOME
Reasonably priced,and good used in the same sentence is a tough one.Any decent shop should be able to check it out,it's just a SBC,if the problems internal.Out of curiosity,what are the symtoms? Maybe someone here could help.
Yeah, Gimmesome I realized right after I hit send that reasonably price in this context may be an oxymoron :-) Anyway for about two weeks before what may be the end of the engine, I experienced some mild engine knocking. I added some fuel additive and kept on driving it.

Three weeks ago, on the way home from work, I was accelerating to pass on an upgrade on the freeway and I heard and felt a sever engine "knocking" noise. I immediately came off the accelerator but I fear the damage was done. Afterwords it was as if the engine was running on seven cylinders and I could smell what smelled like burnt valves.

The next morning it did start but it was smoking and sputtering. I drove it (less the a mile) to the local gas station/repair shop and it's been sitting there ever since. One clue I did get is that it could be the ignition timing; perhaps a broken timing chain...
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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timing chain is a good possibility with 200K on the clock....that and a few more depending on the service history. Did you happen to notice oil pressure, temperature and oil temperature? And, yes it is just a SBC, so any GOOD shop should be able to detect the problem. If it's a major one you might be better off just getting a rebuilt short block and go from there.
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:48 PM
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With 200,000 miles on the clock and problems, unknown, I'd be shopping for a good crate, long block, engine. After you get it fixed, you will still have a 200,000 mile engine. Assuming you don't have a laundry list of non-stock "must haves", an good solid replacement type, mild engine will probably be the quickest cheapest solution.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
timing chain is a good possibility with 200K on the clock....that and a few more depending on the service history. Did you happen to notice oil pressure, temperature and oil temperature? And, yes it is just a SBC, so any GOOD shop should be able to detect the problem. If it's a major one you might be better off just getting a rebuilt short block and go from there.

You could just buy a performance short block already built and ready to go from there......the rest of the engine is just bolt on for the most part...its not real tough job to do....just requires some elbow grease, tools and time.

Good luck!
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
timing chain is a good possibility with 200K on the clock....that and a few more depending on the service history. Did you happen to notice oil pressure, temperature and oil temperature? And, yes it is just a SBC, so any GOOD shop should be able to detect the problem. If it's a major one you might be better off just getting a rebuilt short block and go from there.
I bought the car with 12,300 miles and have taken good care of it...
But Rick those are good questions. Yes I did notice the oil pressure, oil temp and coolant temp and now that I'm thinking about it, all looked normal to me. So it could very well be the timing chain.
But your suggestion to just go with a rebuilt short block my be the way to go. I could tell the valve guides where worn out anyway... unrelated to the ignition timing I know but it's slowly sinking in that with 200k on the clock as you say, I shouldn't get the engine work done in a "piecemeal" fashion.
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by engle1147

You could just buy a performance short block already built and ready to go from there......the rest of the engine is just bolt on for the most part...its not real tough job to do....just requires some elbow grease, tools and time.

Good luck!
How much should I expect to pay for a performance short block and where can I go to buy one? I don't need or want any extras. Just stock. And of course it needs to pass California emmissions.
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by realvoice
How much should I expect to pay for a performance short block and where can I go to buy one? I don't need or want any extras. Just stock. And of course it needs to pass California emmissions.
Check this link out:
http://s40005.sites40.storefront-hos...x?CategoryID=2
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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Try your local Chevy dealer.Sometimes their parts department runs specials on crate motors, and are very competative.Of course, you would still have to install it yourself,or pay someone to do it.Good luck to you.

Last edited by GIMMESOME; Aug 22, 2007 at 06:14 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by realvoice
But your suggestion to just go with a rebuilt short block my be the way to go. I could tell the valve guides where worn out anyway...
The short block will still leave you having to deal with the valve guides and the rest of the valve job. That is why I suggested the long block.



Originally Posted by realvoice
unrelated to the ignition timing I know but it's slowly sinking in that with 200k on the clock as you say, I shouldn't get the engine work done in a "piecemeal" fashion.
Which is why I mentioned the "clock" mileage on the rest of the engine, too.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 07:20 PM
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Look at it this way. That engine has given you great value. You now have to pay the piper. A good longblock is a good idea! The possible combinations of cam, intake, and heads boggle the mind. You can get one built to your specs.

Do you want a stock L98 replacement, or do you want to push the envelope a bit.
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by InHot
Look at it this way. That engine has given you great value. You now have to pay the piper. A good longblock is a good idea! The possible combinations of cam, intake, and heads boggle the mind. You can get one built to your specs.

Do you want a stock L98 replacement, or do you want to push the envelope a bit.
A stock L98 would be just fine. I think I'll only keep the car for another year or so and then it's on to a C5
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by InHot
Look at it this way. That engine has given you great value. You now have to pay the piper. A good longblock is a good idea! The possible combinations of cam, intake, and heads boggle the mind. You can get one built to your specs.

Do you want a stock L98 replacement, or do you want to push the envelope a bit.
By the way InHot, I think you hit the nail right on the head. I did get great value from that engine. I was just getting over the initial shock of the realization that it's time to replace the engine. Thanks to everyone for your input and for your help.
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 02:17 AM
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I would say that at 200k, judging from the noises, might just be blown... sad to say.

also contact www.vette2vette.com. Jason is a real great guy to deal with.
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 03:35 AM
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If you're looking to sell it in one year, you should invest the least amount of money possible. If you upgrade anything or start modding, you'll never recoup any of the money. I'd do the most simple & basic fix/repair/swap, etc. as possible.
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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I had a high mileage engine in my daily driver lemans - when I pulled it, it was barely running. - exhaust valves had holes burned clean through them = no cylinder pressure in 2 pistons. also timing chain had a crazy amount of slack. so the timing could advance and retard itself at its own will. the cam had a few lobes wiped off it. I went straight down to advance autoparts and ordered a new long block from a company they sell from called recon. it cost me about $1700 with a new oil pump and water pump as well. swapping it over was easy. I wish I would have tossed the original distributer though, my old one was worn out and I decided to keep it anyways.

the new engine has over 4K miles on it now, and its running awesome.
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Old Aug 23, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 85 500 horse
If you're looking to sell it in one year, you should invest the least amount of money possible. If you upgrade anything or start modding, you'll never recoup any of the money. I'd do the most simple & basic fix/repair/swap, etc. as possible.
hell, I would sell it as is.

With that kinda mileage, it ain't worth more than $3k, tops, running. As it stands, it's worth about $2k, broken.
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Old Aug 24, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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Unfortunately, being California, a lot of the crates won't work (legally) - well at least to the extent that anyone might notice. Most go with the ZZ4 short or long block since the heads are at least the same as the last L98 ('91). But even those may not work with your intake, so you may have to spring for a newer TPI setup too. Face it, CA wants our old Vettes crushed making the economics of fixing something big a little tougher. Given your mileage, you might want to think about what might break next, and then give some thought to buying something newer.
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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My daughter had a high mileage engine when the timing chain let go.
I took it apart and replaced the chain, only to find it had no compression. The pistons had hit every intake valve, and bent them, eliminating any hope of compression. I replaced the heads, and 3 months later it began to smoke. The only thing I could do for them was get another short block, and switch heads, salvage the timing set, and press on. They lost the use of the car twice. for 2 weeks at each turn due to the fact that I did the engine work for about 3-4 hours a day till I had it running again.
I say you should get a replacement engine from a wrecking yard, install it yourself or with a friend and a digital camera, buy lots of hand cleaner, go have fun.
The local wrecking yard here charges $1500 for a used running engine with a 90 day warranty, and it includes everything...alt, starter,TPI, Sensors, Computer, wiring harness, water pump, Serpentine system, power steering pump, smog pump, tensioner,flex plate, Distributor, exhaust manifolds, even the plugs and plug wires come with it!!!
Well, so does the grease and grime.........
P.S. the camera is for the car parts.......................
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